[Eleanor's Nemesis]

If it is a hydraulic lifter cam (and I'm almost certain it is) then there shouldn't be any valve lash...it should be zero. The hydraulic lifters do usually need some preload, typically when you reach zero lash turn the nut another 1/3 of a turn to 1/2 turn.

I think a lot of your problem is having no vacuum advance. I would try a VA distributor before I spent money elsewhere.

[bcm66]

As already said, don't throw a huge amount of money at it just yet.

Try tuning the carb first.

Then check distributor. I run a similar distributor setup (but Mallory). Not ideal for street driving but you can make it work.

Is this just a street car? No strip? If it is just a cruiser, you might want to try a smaller cam. Just an idea.

I think these are the specs on your cam.

http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...x?csid=89&sb=2

[HwyStarJoe]

What about a vacuum leak somewhere? It would have to be a pretty big one.
I know that cam is huge and those Hg levels are in line with a cam of those specs, but don't assume 6 or 8" of vacuum is correct until you eliminate any vacuum leaks.

[Steiner]

Once you get the carb sorted then maybe look into the ignition since it's only when hot and only under load.
If the distributor is the type that does not require an ignition box I'd try removing it and rewiring as appropriate. Or try an MSD 8360.
If it does require the box, check the voltage on the small red wire for the control power of the 6AL and make sure it is at least 13.5V when running. Control power should come from the IGN spade on the fuse block inside the car, not from the cloth covered resistor wire that may still be coming from the bulkhead connector on the firewall. This is also the case if you get rid of the box and run just the coil and distributor. Heavy red cable should go straight to battery positve and heavy black cable should go straight to battery negative.

[CamaroNorway]

Originally Posted by bcm66

As already said, don't throw a huge amount of money at it just yet.

Try tuning the carb first.

Then check distributor. I run a similar distributor setup (but Mallory). Not ideal for street driving but you can make it work.

Is this just a street car? No strip? If it is just a cruiser, you might want to try a smaller cam. Just an idea.

I think these are the specs on your cam.

http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...x?csid=89&sb=2

this is just a car for street driving.

Originally Posted by HwyStarJoe

What about a vacuum leak somewhere? It would have to be a pretty big one.
I know that cam is huge and those Hg levels are in line with a cam of those specs, but don't assume 6 or 8" of vacuum is correct until you eliminate any vacuum leaks.

i tried checking for leaks with "starter gas". sprayed around the intake, front and back of heads. not on the underside of the heads, because of heat from headers and "starter gas". afraid of fire.
the vacuum didn't chance, and no chance in rpms.

Originally Posted by Steiner

Once you get the carb sorted then maybe look into the ignition since it's only when hot and only under load.
If the distributor is the type that does not require an ignition box I'd try removing it and rewiring as appropriate. Or try an MSD 8360.
If it does require the box, check the voltage on the small red wire for the control power of the 6AL and make sure it is at least 13.5V when running. Control power should come from the IGN spade on the fuse block inside the car, not from the cloth covered resistor wire that may still be coming from the bulkhead connector on the firewall. This is also the case if you get rid of the box and run just the coil and distributor. Heavy red cable should go straight to battery positve and heavy black cable should go straight to battery negative.

i've got a MSD 85551 dist. the small red wire is connected to IGN, and heavy red and black to the battery.
i haven't measured the voltage, and now the engine is teared down.

[X-77 keith]

As stated before I think your problem is in the carb. It is a shame that the engine got torn down before you started the post. It is hard to tell the problem with just a pile of parts. Procomp heads are a knock off of the Edelbrock heads. Changing to Edelbrock prob would not change much if any. As far as having the timing locked down it shouldnt be a problem if you have a sthall converter. Black smoke like stated before most of the time is too much fuel. Needle and seat, fuel logged float, blown powervalve, or float adjustment. With that cam I think I would use a double pumper and ditch the vacume secondary. Many people on 5this site have alot of skill and information , I'm sure they can help get you back on track, just got to get it running again first.

[cadmanof50s]

Just wondering, is it actually "black" smoke you are seeing or is it more of a bluish haze?

Pull one of the spark plugs and describe the conditions of the electrodes.

Are they black, oily, sooty or tan/brown?

Might help diagnose the problem.

On a different train of thought...are you running an electric fuel pump?

Vic

[CamaroNorway]

Originally Posted by cadmanof50s

Just wondering, is it actually "black" smoke you are seeing or is it more of a bluish haze?

Pull one of the spark plugs and describe the conditions of the electrodes.

Are they black, oily, sooty or tan/brown?

Might help diagnose the problem.

On a different train of thought...are you running an electric fuel pump?

Vic

yes it's black smoke.
it only cough out a cloud of black smoke. not continuous black smoke

i would say the plugs are black, with maybe a little soot.

i'm running a mechanical fuel pump.