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  #16  
Old Nov 27th, 12, 08:57 AM
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DjD DjD is offline
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Default Re: antifreeze

Quote:
Originally Posted by z-28-mc View Post
I was going to use walmart drinking water ,but I was going to boil it first ....The car will be kept in a heated garage so, is there any need for antifreeze?
Yes, antifreeze provides lubrication and anti-corrosion protection. You can get other water additives to do that as well but I think you'll find them more expensive.

Boiling water might make it safe to drink if it's got bacteria in it but you can't boil out minerals... Any filtered drinking water that is mineral free would be fine for your cooling system.
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  #17  
Old Nov 27th, 12, 09:43 AM
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Default Re: antifreeze

Is your car in a heated garage? You already know this....It gets cold in ohio and soon you'll have freezing temps. Take that into consideration. Antifreeze is for...well you know.
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  #18  
Old Nov 27th, 12, 10:02 AM
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Jerry G.
 
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Default Re: antifreeze

Quote:
Originally Posted by z-28-mc View Post
I was going to use walmart drinking water ,but I was going to boil it first ....
Boil water???? What Dennis said.

Might as well buy the distilled water and then you know for sure there is no minerals, just pure water. Last Distilled water I bought at Walmart, last week, was only $.88 a gallon so the cost is not high.
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  #19  
Old Nov 27th, 12, 11:25 AM
Fred Ficarra Fred Ficarra is offline
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Default Re: antifreeze

Dennis I've got to disagree with you about our cars needing to have the radiators filled only two inches below the cap.
Our cars were happy (sorta) with water at that level because closed cooling systems hadn't been invented yet. There's no reason, or disadvantage to NOT converting to a closed system. It's the best of all worlds. I converted the day the system was announced in Mechanics Illustrated in 1970. It was originally on Buick's and Caddy's. My engine and radiator(s) have never had corrosion or even rust on the water jacket walls. That's the result of keeping oxygen out of the cooling liquid.
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TH400 (CX) with Coan 8" converter, GV-OD, 8 track still on console and best et 10.495, 128.79mph 1.428 60'
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+ MT Super Scavenger headers & 3" full exhaust with X pipe.
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  #20  
Old Nov 27th, 12, 12:18 PM
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Default Re: antifreeze

Not sure why you are disagreeing Fred??? You have to convert a 1969 Camaro cooling system to be closed, it was not designed as a closed system! If you fill it up like a closed system it will puke when you shut it off until it reaches it's designed level...

I have never spoken ill if converting to a closed system, it's not necessary but can be done and satisfies tech to get on the drag strip. In the event of a boil over a closed system is marginally better that an over flow tube but as anyone that has had a modern car boil over can attest the overflow reservoir can't contain the boil over and it pours out the container providing a nice steam cleaning of the engine compartment...
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  #21  
Old Nov 27th, 12, 03:44 PM
Fred Ficarra Fred Ficarra is offline
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Default Re: antifreeze

Got it Dennis, I see where you're coming from. You're thinking of overheating and uncontrolled venting of coolant.
A recovery system is really simple and will never puke water because it almost never overheats. The water that is forced out of the engine that we refer to as 'puking' is water that will now travel back and forth.
The first component to install is a radiator cap with the funky second valve that's seen by looking at the bottom of the cap. This is a one way valve that DOES NOT let coolant OUT. It only let's it in. Next is the tank. Not any tank, but one that takes the overflow into it from the bottom. It lets the expanded coolant from the engine travel both ways because the inlet/outlet is on the bottom so siphoning is assured. Remember, there's no air in the coolant. This is not a drag race puke tank but perfectly within the rules. Water travels both ways because there is no air in the overflow tube. The coolant that goes out of the radiator does so via natural expansion as the system warms. It goes out of the radiator via the conventional cap seal and then out to the overflow tube. When the cooling system cools down after shutting off the engine, the liquid contracts. The little 'piddle' valve under the cap then opens and the two tanks equalize and water is drawn back into the engine via contraction. No over heating. No air in system.
It's important to fill the radiator to the max! Very important.
Then fill the overflow tank about mid-way. Start and warm the engine.
The air left in the radiator rises to the top and is forced out to the recovery tank. It's at the same pressure as the water. Air goes to the tank and rises, of course, and vents out the little vent hole at the top of all recovery tanks. The water doesn't. It waits to go up until the air in the cooling system is purged. But it does go down when the engine cools because it siphon's back. Prior to all of the air being forced out of the radiator it's very important to insure that the water in the recovery tank does NOT get low and let air back into the radiator.
It's so simple that these systems cost less than an oil change. All you need is the cap and correct tank. Mount the tank and you're done. No more puking and little maintenance in the future because the antifreeze is basically in a container like the jug it came out of. Simple. That's also why recovery tanks are marked with a high and low level indicator. The system should be maintained between the marks via water. No need to add antifreeze. The level in the recovery tank goes up when the engine is at operating temperature and then down when cool but it should stay between the high and low marks. Liquid will eventually go down because water in tank naturally evaporates out of its required vent hole. A splash of water about once a year is all that's usually required.
Again, a malfunction of a thermostat or something like a blown hose will still cause overheating but it won't be caused by the recovery system because the radiator cap is of the same pressure as spec'd originally.
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One owner 69 Camaro,(yep, bought it new)
RS SS Hugger Orange, L88, 4:10's tru-tack posi, ducted hood, Endura, spoilers.
TH400 (CX) with Coan 8" converter, GV-OD, 8 track still on console and best et 10.495, 128.79mph 1.428 60'
All with 1960's stuff. (except tires and converter)
+ MT Super Scavenger headers & 3" full exhaust with X pipe.
1000cfm AED and HD Harold-Lunati SR, 725 lift with shaft rockers too.
http://epitomesrebuild.com/
http://ss427.net/
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  #22  
Old Nov 27th, 12, 04:22 PM
raywak raywak is offline

 
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Default Re: antifreeze

racers used water and redline waterwetter
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  #23  
Old Nov 27th, 12, 04:49 PM
Fred Ficarra Fred Ficarra is offline
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Default Re: antifreeze

Quote:
Originally Posted by raywak View Post
racers used water and redline waterwetter
So do I,,,, now. After more than one 'malfunction", the dirty looks from track personnel got my attention.
Welcome Ray! Where are you from?
__________________
One owner 69 Camaro,(yep, bought it new)
RS SS Hugger Orange, L88, 4:10's tru-tack posi, ducted hood, Endura, spoilers.
TH400 (CX) with Coan 8" converter, GV-OD, 8 track still on console and best et 10.495, 128.79mph 1.428 60'
All with 1960's stuff. (except tires and converter)
+ MT Super Scavenger headers & 3" full exhaust with X pipe.
1000cfm AED and HD Harold-Lunati SR, 725 lift with shaft rockers too.
http://epitomesrebuild.com/
http://ss427.net/
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  #24  
Old Nov 28th, 12, 04:16 PM
raywak raywak is offline

 
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Posts: 8
Default Re: antifreeze

hi i'm live in gainsville, fl
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