[SixtyAte]

Also..
Not sure what carb you are running but what is the limit of operating range of that setup? Here is one that is a single feed, 650 cfm carb that will run to about 5,500 rpm as is. Too bad somebody doesn't have a Holley 650 dual feed double pumper (4777-4 is what I run) to see what that does for you Link to a Ebrock setup that may be what you are running....

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-20274/overview/


Kev

[67Rally]

Originally Posted by SixtyAte

Also..
Not sure what carb you are running but what is the limit of operating range of that setup? Here is one that is a single feed, 650 cfm carb that will run to about 5,500 rpm as is. Too bad somebody doesn't have a Holley 650 dual feed double pumper (4777-4 is what I run) to see what that does for you Link to a Ebrock setup that may be what you are running....

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-20274/overview/


Kev

Kev, that setup you linked to has the Performer intake which is only good from idle-5500rpm. The Performer RPM (mine) should be good from 1500-6500rpm. Here's a link to my setup: http://m.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2007

I tried to match up my components pretty well. I think my limiting factor should be the cam which is good from 1800-6200rpm. Cam card: http://www.lunatipower.com/CamSpecCa...rtNumber=60103

I'm kind of frustrating, aren't I? Keep the ideas coming.

[SixtyAte]

Originally Posted by 67Rally

Kev, that setup you linked to has the Performer intake which is only good from idle-5500rpm. The Performer RPM (mine) should be good from 1500-6500rpm. Here's a link to my setup: http://m.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2007

I tried to match up my components pretty well. I think my limiting factor should be the cam which is good from 1800-6200rpm. Cam card: http://www.lunatipower.com/CamSpecCa...rtNumber=60103

I'm kind of frustrating, aren't I? Keep the ideas coming.

Nah...I just keep thinking of what may be wrong and you shoot it down...which is good Ruling out stuff is the only solution I can offer...beyond you doing a new build of some kind. Check electric choke position when hot ( disconnect wire to insure it remains open at all times while testing) and see if that changes anything. Secondly ... The DUI dist you are running, I assume is all set (Mechanical or Vacuum ) advance and you said custom curve. I guess until Tom can get there and check a few hundred things we will just wait.

Kev

[67Rally]

Originally Posted by SixtyAte

Nah...I just keep thinking of what may be wrong and you shoot it down...which is good Ruling out stuff is the only solution I can offer...beyond you doing a new build of some kind. Check electric choke position when hot ( disconnect wire to insure it remains open at all times while testing) and see if that changes anything. Secondly ... The DUI dist you are running, I assume is all set (Mechanical or Vacuum ) advance and you said custom curve. I guess until Tom can get there and check a few hundred things we will just wait.

Kev

Thanks.

I'll check the choke Wednesday after the snow clears (if we get some).

The Davis Unified Ignition (DUI) HEI distributor is set up at 22 degrees of advance, all in by 3000 rpm. The vacuum advance is hooked up to the manifold vacuum. I'm getting around 17 in. Hg.

[SixtyAte]

Another idea is to disconnect the vacuum advance and plug the port on the carb/manifold.make a mark where the distributor is now then loosen the distributor slightly, so you can turn it but it stays where you put it. Start the car and turn the distributor clockwise and counter clockwise to the point where the engine sounds best. Try the car out..then keep turning the distributor to where you like the power both in take off and full throttle 4th gear. Sock it down at that point then connect the vacuum back up. You may need to do a slight adjust once you connect the vacuum and try it out but you your be at the optimum setting for that engine. Timing by ear ..is something we older guys have done most of our lives . Its sets the engine to what it runs best on and not a number made for all engines of that size. When we had to set the dwell in the distributor (28-32 degrees ) and make sure the firing order was 18436572 , this stuff gets burnt into your brain
Kev

[67Rally]

Originally Posted by SixtyAte

Another idea is to disconnect the vacuum advance and plug the port on the carb/manifold.make a mark where the distributor is now then loosen the distributor slightly, so you can turn it but it stays where you put it. Start the car and turn the distributor clockwise and counter clockwise to the point where the engine sounds best. Try the car out..then keep turning the distributor to where you like the power both in take off and full throttle 4th gear. Sock it down at that point then connect the vacuum back up. You may need to do a slight adjust once you connect the vacuum and try it out but you your be at the optimum setting for that engine. Timing by ear ..is something we older guys have done most of our lives . Its sets the engine to what it runs best on and not a number made for all engines of that size. When we had to set the dwell in the distributor (28-32 degrees ) and make sure the firing order was 18436572 , this stuff gets burnt into your brain
Kev

I'll let Tom take a look this weekend and give his impressions.

I have a timing light and when I started trouble shooting this over the summer, I set initial timing from 10-18 degrees advanced in 1 degree increments (10,11,12...). At 17+ degrees it wants to fall on it's face at WOT, and at 12 and under it's a real dog. It runs well between 13-16 degrees of initial advancement, but none of the changes fixed the top end issues.

I'll keep you posted this weekend.

[SixtyAte]

Brent..any results on the tests this weekend?

Kev

[67Rally]

Originally Posted by SixtyAte

Brent..any results on the tests this weekend?

Kev

We had to postpone it till next weekend. The roads near me were covered in salt, and Tom said they were icy near him. We'll hook up next Sat. or Sun. morning and post the results.

[ROBS6T8]

I'm waiting too! I just bought the Quick Fuel Q-650... can't wait.

[67Rally]

My guess is worn rings/low compression and/or valve float.

When I replaced the stock valve springs with the LS6 beehives and Comp Cams retainers I did not do any shimming. I had read somewhere that the new retainers would get me at an installed height of 1.75" which would put my spring pressure right where Lunati recommends (105lbs), but if they are installed at 1.8", I'd only be at 90lbs. Just a thought.

I think I have addressed fuel supply, carb, distributor, plugs, wires, timing, etc. Unless I messed one of those up along the way. Which is one of the reasons a second set of eyes will come in handy.

[67Rally]

Originally Posted by Melrose RS

OK, let's watch the weather. I'll email you later. Bring the leak-down tester. I won't break the car.

Well, that didn't go so well, now did it?

I took Tom for a test drive yesterday and he felt the lack of power I have been complaining about. Then he drove it and it had one good burst of power where the back wheels broke loose, but agreed again that it just wasn't revving like it should have. We parked the car, checked the carb, and restarted it and it wouldn't stay running, and didn't quite sound normal. We got it back to Tom's house in limp mode, feathering the gas pedal at each stop sign so we didn't stall out.

The engine is broken.

I don't have my data with me, but Tom and I did a compression test and all cylinders checked out between 135-145 psi. We did a leakdown test and determined that I either had a lot of leakage, or the tester was broken. We tested each cylinder 2-3 times and got a high of 75% leakage and a low of around 55% leakage.

No signs of bent pushrods or a wiped cam lobe. We re-adjusted the valves, cleaned the spark plugs, checked for the secondaries operating, readjusted the idle mixture screws on the Edelbrock 650, etc. and got it idling well and sounding good in the driveway.

We took it out for another test ride and it was making a horrible noise inside the engine, and I could feel a nasty vibration in the pedals. The engine didn't want to rev past 2500rpm, so we limped back to Tom's place and waited 2 1/2 hours to have it trailered home. We're leaning towards a spun rod bearing? The oil pressure has always been on the low side since I got it. All the work on the top end and the troubleshooting haven't helped. Maybe it's been the bottom end all along?

[SixtyAte]

Originally Posted by 67Rally

Well, that didn't go so well, now did it?

I took Tom for a test drive yesterday and he felt the lack of power I have been complaining about. Then he drove it and it had one good burst of power where the back wheels broke loose, but agreed again that it just wasn't revving like it should have. We parked the car, checked the carb, and restarted it and it wouldn't stay running, and didn't quite sound normal. We got it back to Tom's house in limp mode, feathering the gas pedal at each stop sign so we didn't stall out.

The engine is broken.

I don't have my data with me, but Tom and I did a compression test and all cylinders checked out between 135-145 psi. We did a leakdown test and determined that I either had a lot of leakage, or the tester was broken. We tested each cylinder 2-3 times and got a high of 75% leakage and a low of around 55% leakage.

No signs of bent pushrods or a wiped cam lobe. We re-adjusted the valves, cleaned the spark plugs, checked for the secondaries operating, readjusted the idle mixture screws on the Edelbrock 650, etc. and got it idling well and sounding good in the driveway.

We took it out for another test ride and it was making a horrible noise inside the engine, and I could feel a nasty vibration in the pedals. The engine didn't want to rev past 2500rpm, so we limped back to Tom's place and waited 2 1/2 hours to have it trailered home. We're leaning towards a spun rod bearing? The oil pressure has always been on the low side since I got it. All the work on the top end and the troubleshooting haven't helped. Maybe it's been the bottom end all along?

Geesh....

Compression wasn't that bad after all....but combined with other problems wasn't helping. Too bad it had to blow but its the end of the season and it could have been worse..i guess. A strong top end will always hurt a weak bottom end and result in engine damage. So, are you building a complete new engine? Buying a short block or going for the whole banana...a Stroker 383? Only one downfall to the 383....it tends to wear rear tires fast

Kev

[67Rally]

Originally Posted by SixtyAte

Geesh....

Compression wasn't that bad after all....but combined with other problems wasn't helping. Too bad it had to blow but its the end of the season and it could have been worse..i guess. A strong top end will always hurt a weak bottom end and result in engine damage. So, are you building a complete new engine? Buying a short block or going for the whole banana...a Stroker 383? Only one downfall to the 383....it tends to wear rear tires fast

Kev

Yes, the timing was pretty good, as far as blowing an engine goes...

Once again I'm looking into the LS swap. I put the feelers out for an LS1/LS2 T56 combo (F-body or GTO). If I can find something at a reasonable price within the next couple months, that's the route I'll probably go and then sell off all my top end components to recoup a little money. I'm looking for a full dropout with all the accessories, pedals, intake, harness, etc. I'll most likely stay fuel injected, even though I'm not a fan of the alien looking intake, maybe it'll grow on me...

The other option would be to find an LQ4 or LQ9, and then buy a separate TKO or T56, but there'd be a lot more money into it that way.

If neither of those options work out by spring, then I might just try to find a cheap fresh 350 short block and bolt all my stuff onto it to get me through the season while I save up for a good LS install.

As of right now, I feel that the current block in my Camaro is cursed, and I don't want anything to do with it, not even as a boat anchor. I'll keep my build thread updated with details.

[Melrose RS]

Originally Posted by 67Rally

As of right now, I feel that the current block in my Camaro is cursed, and I don't want anything to do with it, not even as a boat anchor. .

I have to agree with you here. I think it may have had some "voodoo" in it before you added the Voodoo cam. That low oil pressure was always troubling. I would love to see what the internals look like but that might release the evil spirits.

[67Rally]

Originally Posted by Melrose RS

I have to agree with you here. I think it may have had some "voodoo" in it before you added the Voodoo cam. That low oil pressure was always troubling. I would love to see what the internals look like but that might release the evil spirits.

Tom, I'm looking to sell the block. I'm asking $5 or best offer. If you want to dig into it, it's all yours. You just need to haul it away.