[sandiegoz28]

OK, now that lacquer paint is getting a little harder to get, even here in San Diego , what type of paint do you recommend I get for painting inner fenders, firewalls, core supports and similar parts that are to be 30-40 gloss? I will be painting these parts in the garage, so need something that dries fairly quick. Single-stage (1K) urethanes? I have good compressor and gun.

Thanks,

Hans

[TModel66]

I used PPG DCC single stage black and my paint supplier put the flattener in it. They have all the stuff the mix it like you need it. I bought a gallon and mixed half 30% and half 60%. One gallon will make close to two after the reducer and activator is added.

[sandiegoz28]

Cool. Does the PPG DCC dry/cure relatively quick? OK to shoot in a garage vs a professional paint booth? I'll see if I can find a spec for it online.

[TModel66]

It dries to touch in about 4 to 6 hours and yes you can shoot it in a garage. I painted my front fender wells one afternoon and put them on the next morning. It has a lot to do with humidity and heat.

[Denvervet]

SEM hotrod black is what I used on parts I needed semigloss. It isn't very glossy....closer to a satin. Some have suggested using the rustoleum. I used it in a few out of the way spots for touching up and found anything near brake fluid will go throught it in no time compared to the two part hotrod black paint which is very durable. I even painted it on front grill, trim parts, etc and holding up great to road elements.
The best option for fenderwell, frame, and core support is powdercoating.

[69-er]

Wouldn't black epoxy primer be a close semi gloss?

[69z28freak]

Here is SEM Single Stage Trim Black. Sprays right out of the can. Not the most durable if you are comparing it to an epoxy or 2 stage paint, but does have the correct finish IMO.









Here is a 2 stage base coat, clear coat, mixed with a flattening agent to bring it down to a 60% gloss.




Here is epoxy primer

[Sauron67MM]

Originally Posted by 69z28freak

Here is epoxy primer

Is that a brand new hood? If so it's EDP coating which is not epoxy. Totally different products and procedures.

[69z28freak]

Originally Posted by Sauron67MM

Is that a brand new hood? If so it's EDP coating which is not epoxy. Totally different products and procedures.

That is correct, not epoxy prime. Will post a pic of epoxy prime, but it is quite glossy, plus you would not want to use it as a final finish I would think.

[69-er]

I was told it makes a good chassis black as long as its out of the sun. Its not glossy as it needs to be somewhat flat for topcoats to stick.

[Sauron67MM]

Originally Posted by 69-er

I was told it makes a good chassis black as long as its out of the sun. Its not glossy as it needs to be somewhat flat for topcoats to stick.

Epoxy's lack of gloss does not promote adhesion. Topcoat adhesion is achieved through a wet on wet procedure which chemical bonding. If the window has passed mechanical adhesion by scuffing is required, then recoating with epoxy, then topcoating as per the TDS. The TDS is provided for all paint products.

Not all epoxies resists abrasion like urethane topcoats or even some 1Ks.
Sikkens Rally Black is another option that rarely gets mention on these sites.

[cromedss]

Kirker "Hot Rod Black" works well for a durable satin finish. Resonably priced also.

[zdld17]

I used a John Deere Blitz Black . Decent pricing. Local John Deere dealers.

[BPOS]

I used SEM Trim Black shot from a gun. Nice stuff, easy to shoot, reasonably priced. Dries to the touch in less than 30 minutes and per the instructions - no primer needed - although I epoxy primered anyway.

Another nice feature - you can get it in an aerosol can for the inevitable touch-ups.