[69z28freak]

Originally Posted by Edgemontvillage

Post #1: October 19, 2010

Step Seven:
Paint car Original color Dover White

How about this one?

Step Nine:
Install Big Block in subframe with trans

Perhaps I should re-list the actual order when I am done.
Step One: Paint Car!

[69z28freak]

Originally Posted by 6781camaro

Make sure you pre-spray/soak all those captured J-nuts that hold in the front leaf spring pockets. They can be stubborn. Hopefully Grandma has been keeping herself moisturized through the years so they are removed without a hitch.

Hey Todd the diff is already free at this point, however you can't really tell that from the angle of the picture. The only thing still attached is the drive shaft. That will come out next. I will post a side shot for a better view. The spring pocket bolts came right out with a regular socket and they didn't even seem to be all that tight. Even a one armed invalid like myself, was able to loosen the bolts without too much effort. I hope I get lucky with the rest of the under carriage. Next step will be to remove the fuel and brake lines as the parking brake cable is already removed. Then I will have a blank canvas to work with, so to speak. Then I will get the car situated on 4 jack stands and start the task of removing the rock hard undercoating back to front.

I have not decided what process I will use after I finish with the "Fat Max" heat gun yet. I may use a solvent product to wipe it down or a wire wheel or sand it, perhaps all 3. I will wait and see what condition everything is in first. There are a lot of nooks and crannies under there. My target is to finished prepping the underside in the early new year, if all goes according to plan. Then get it in paint asap. Once the bottom side is ready for paint, the diff and leaf springs will go back on temporarily, so the car can be a roller. The car will then go next door to the paint shop and get painted on a lift after a thorough tapping and bagging.

Wish me luck!

[6781camaro]

Sounds like a plan. I am sure it will turn out sweet-- like the rest of the car...
Just one question though... do either of these suspects resemble the Hand Bandit? Trying to narrow it down.

[69z28freak]

Diff & Leaf removal Update December 11, 2012

Removed the diff today with the leaf springs attached. I am surprised how easy it is to remove as one unit.

Step One: Remove the Rear top shackle Bolts and bang out the bolts with a hammer and punch. Mine came right out. (Hand Bandit Method)!

Step Two: Remove 3 bucket bolts.

Step Three: Remove drive shaft at U-Joint

I Then lowered the diff onto a dolly using a floor jack. Very convenient when working alone. Next I will remove the leafs from the diff and blast and prep the parts I am going to use on the new diff set up. Old diff will go into to storage until it is time to restore it.









Here is floor under the buckets after removal. I was once again pleased with how well preserved the metal is considering I live in a rain forest! Pristine bare metal seems to be under the undercoating everywhere so far. I am sure I am going to run into nastiness somewhere. I suspect that the subframe mounts will be the first casualty.



Next step remove the brake and fuel lines...

Now its time to get busy with the "FAT MAX"!

[Edgemontvillage]

Originally Posted by 6781camaro

Sounds like a plan. I am sure it will turn out sweet-- like the rest of the car...
Just one question though... do either of these suspects resemble the Hand Bandit? Trying to narrow it down.

Troubling...

[ZLP955]

Originally Posted by 69z28freak

I have not decided what process I will use after I finish with the "Fat Max" heat gun yet. I may use a solvent product to wipe it down or a wire wheel or sand it, perhaps all 3. I will wait and see what condition everything is in first. There are a lot of nooks and crannies under there

That question reminded me of John's thread here:
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=206960
He stripped the rear underside of his Z using a combination of heat/hand scraping and power tools, and repainted it (albeit gray not black) at home; might be some ideas/tips there! (Especially if you can persuade Hand Bandit to glove up and help out )

[69z28freak]

Originally Posted by Edgemontvillage

Troubling...

No. More like this !

"The Glove Master"



Fear the glove...



Obey the glove...



And the Ultimate, all-time glove classic!

[69z28freak]

Originally Posted by ZLP955

That question reminded me of John's thread here:
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=206960
He stripped the rear underside of his Z using a combination of heat/hand scraping and power tools, and repainted it (albeit gray not black) at home; might be some ideas/tips there! (Especially if you can persuade Hand Bandit to glove up and help out )

Thanks Tim I remember seeing this before but could not find it. Excellent thread.

[kettbo]

Mike,

Go back to my thread a few months ago for complete scrape/clean-up.
What you are calling undercoat may well be oil, trans fluid, road crud, film, etc. My car was coated with it below. Undercoat was only applied to the wheel wells unless you have other proof. You really WANT to by a leaky, oil-spewing car so it has good floors! My 327 and Glide fit the bill perfectly!



Some heat but 2" putty knife, wire wheels etc did the job. I then used Wax and Grease Remover, assorted brushes and red scratchpads. Quite a task. Shot the underside with DP90. Getting ready for the 12-bolt install, will be gloss black/cheap paint like factory. My front hangar nut clips were toast before torque was applied, the new clips suck...gotta figure install. Anyway...drop in on my thread.

Great hand model you have

[69z28freak]

Originally Posted by kettbo

Mike,

Go back to my thread a few months ago for complete scrape/clean-up.
What you are calling undercoat may well be oil, trans fluid, road crud, film, etc. My car was coated with it below. Undercoat was only applied to the wheel wells unless you have other proof. You really WANT to by a leaky, oil-spewing car so it has good floors! My 327 and Glide fit the bill perfectly!

Some heat but 2" putty knife, wire wheels etc did the job. I then used Wax and Grease Remover, assorted brushes and red scratchpads. Quite a task. Shot the underside with DP90. Getting ready for the 12-bolt install, will be gloss black/cheap paint like factory. My front hangar nut clips were toast before torque was applied, the new clips suck...gotta figure install. Anyway...drop in on my thread.

Great hand model you have

Thanks George. I will zip over to your thread and have a look. Your car is looking great.

[69z28freak]

Update December 12, 2012

The undercoating is thick and covers every inch of the under of the car. It is nasty stuff, but it has preserved the metal. Without it, this car would be badly rusted out.



Not much undercoating in the back corners of the rear quarters, or under the tank, but the corners have the most rust as a result. However it is only surface rust. Nothing serious.







It is a very slow process. Inch by inch. Once all of the undercoating has been heated and scrapped, sanding and fibre discing will begin.







Rust must be stopped at any cost! Muhahahaha! I wonder if Master Blaster can hear me?

[6781camaro]

Nothing slips past the illustrious MASTER BLASTER! All laborers of this skills level sense each other's mind waves from any distance! Be careful! and Muhaaahahahaaaaa back to you! (Love the mugshot by the way!)

Looking great Mike! Just a quick point-out... looks like the factory missed a few spot welds along the DRIVER'S side weld flange on the cross rail connecting to the drop off seam, no? Maybe it's the camera's flash creating shadows? Looks like it's peeling up to me.

[ZLP955]

You mean in this shot, Todd?

Originally Posted by 69z28freak

[6781camaro]

Yes... You can see that the vertical weld flange is either peeling up, or was never spotwelded to the drop off there. I think it's the original drop off too -- so it's the General's fault. (GM) Easy fix by drilling a 5-6 plug weld holes and two-three for clecos-- then plugging it tightly in place. Maybe it's just the camera's effect though... hard to tell from a pic...

[69z28freak]

Originally Posted by 6781camaro

Yes... You can see that the vertical weld flange is either peeling up, or was never spotwelded to the drop off there. I think it's the original drop off too -- so it's the General's fault. (GM) Easy fix by drilling a 5-6 plug weld holes and two-three for clecos-- then plugging it tightly in place. Maybe it's just the camera's effect though... hard to tell from a pic...

Good eye Todd. My bet is that was the result of a bad quarter panel change. That quarter was changed before I bought the car. We had to fix a few areas of that quarter when my car was in the shop. It was a bit of a low budget butcher job. The other side has the original drop off panel.

Master Blaster has X-Ray vision as well I see