[67Camaro- Texas]

67 Camaro-

I hooked up the wiring harness for my console clock this past week and to my surprise, it worked flawlessly.... for a little over 24 hours that is .

The power to the clock runs to the 20A "Bat.Fused" on the Fuse Panel, so I started there. It didn't take me long to figure out that there is no power getting to this fuse terminal. I'm assuming there was a day ago or the clock wouldn't have worked at all.

I first replaced the fuse although it was not blown and that didn't work. So I then took the panel off to test the red "live" wire running to this specific fuse in the back. I then noticed that this red wire also powers the 20A fuse below the "bat.fused", which is the Stop/Tail LPS fuse. In short, this red wire is no longer hot and neither of these bottom two 20A fuses are getting power. I spent all day trying to track down where the wire comes from and best I can tell, it runs from the Horn Relay? It is hot from the relay, but I can't tell where this wire goes into the firewall to see if it is hot there?

Question; How could this work for a day and then lose power without blowing a fuse? Is the red wire coming from the horn relay the same wire that powers these two fuses? I'm at a loss.

Good news is, everything seems to work that worked before, including tail lamps, lighter, hazards, tail lights, etc...

[Everett#2390]

You are correct, the red wire on the buss bar powers the car.
First thing to do is remove wires on buss bar and wire brush all, reassemble.
Power goes into firewall connector, drvr side connector, second wire up from the bottom, drvr side column. Could need a cleaning there also.

Once inside the dash, the red wire gets a factory crimp/split to three places, ign sw, light sw, and fuse panel.

One reason power quit is some where from the battery pigtail to the clock, a connection developed a high resistance and stopped current flow. And just the same, the return path back to the battery needs the same conductivity feature.

[67Camaro- Texas]

Thanks for your input, I'll test the firewall connector tonight and see it that is hot or not. I'm assuming it is, since the ing sw and light sw are working fine (except for the dome light, which hasn't worked since I've had the car).

So my best guess is that there is an issue at the factory crimp/split under the dash; specifically the wire running from the split to the fuse box. I’m hoping the crimp/split is easy to locate under the dish…

[Everett#2390]

The factory crimp is wrapped under the tape between the firewall and lamp switch.
Dome light has power on orange wire, white wire is return from the dome light and has battery voltage on it until the jam switch is closed and provides the ground when door is open.
Generally, the jam switch needs alittle cleaning if not a re-screw into/out from the door jam.