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| Team Camaro Tech Current Topic: Any advice when nut brakes loose on middle body mount for new bushing? | ||
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#16
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There was a post not long ago...
Basically, what you need to do is roll it under, that is, grab the bottom of the inner fender and pull it down and toward you. This will disengage it from the fender lip, and it will end up upside down on the garage floor. It's not easy to do, and even harder to get it back in.
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JimM's firstgens.com Camaro Board former TC moderator, who really hope nobody here thinks I paid for or asked for this lifetime gold membership |
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#17
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Sounds like I would be opening myself up for possible more trouble than I have now to try and remove the wheelwell.
The old bushing is still on the top of the mount. I may try and rig something to just make the dangling bolt tight and forget it for now. Any harm in just leaving it as is ( besides me thinking about it not being fixed as I drive it ). I do plan on putting on subframe connectors so I really wanted to change it. Maybe I'll weld them on so I can pull off later and tackle bushing at a later time. Thanks Ray |
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#18
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Ray,
The same thing happened to me. Same bolt, same spot. My motor was in and I was able to pull the broken bolt and nut out of the cage and replace it with a regular hex nut. I used a long pry bar to get the nut cage up on one side just enough to pull the old nut and bolt out. I then replace the bushings and put in new hardware in with a new hex nut. I was able to push the nut cage back down. I also did not pull the inner fender or motor to do this. Good luck.
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69 RS Convertible Camaro, 350/350. Orignal red with black top and interior. Hotchkis suspension. |
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#19
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Ditto.
I would fix the problem. GM put all mounts in for a purpose
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Rick Dorion 69 RS Conv therapy program, Autogear M22, 8-pt cage, with a new 410! SOLD New therapy program - 68 Coupe. Will be survivor exterior, modern underpinnings! |
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#20
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Hi jrager,
Were you able to do this from the front of the engine compartment. Did you reach down into the cage area with the pry bar from the top? I hate to keep badgering for info but I am really at wits end on this. Can you elaborate a little on how you did this? I will attempt it if I can get the procedure that worked for you. It sounds like a couple of other members are in the same predicament. Thanks Ray |
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#21
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Quote:
Four bolts hold the front of the car to the back. I don't think you need one of them loose. |
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#22
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It's DONE!!!!
I followed jrager's advice and was able to repair and replace the mount. I was able to use a long Screwdriver ( three feet ) and pry up the outboard side of the nut cage. I then cut off the bolt head from below and using a 1/2 extension and a hammer drove the bolt shaft up pushing it out the top and bending the cage up. I was able to fish the old bolt and cage nut out. I removed the old bushing and replaced with new. I replaced old bolt and nut with Grade 8 bolts. nuts and lock washers. Thanks to all who gave advice and keep me motivated to not give up. Thanks Ray |
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#23
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Good Job, Ray!!
__________________
JimM's firstgens.com Camaro Board former TC moderator, who really hope nobody here thinks I paid for or asked for this lifetime gold membership |
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#24
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awesome ray, you saved me about a half hour of typing lol
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#25
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Glad everything worked out.
When it happend to me I just did not want to rip the whole car apart. So everyone else knows the other problem I had was holding down the nut so the bolt could be tightened. I contemplated cutting a wrench but wound up using a crows foot to hold the nut. It is amazing how easy things can be when you have the right tool.
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69 RS Convertible Camaro, 350/350. Orignal red with black top and interior. Hotchkis suspension. |
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#26
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A real character builder! Good job.
__________________
Rick Dorion 69 RS Conv therapy program, Autogear M22, 8-pt cage, with a new 410! SOLD New therapy program - 68 Coupe. Will be survivor exterior, modern underpinnings! |
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