[keithl1967]

Also, if it was lie pushing a brick wall to stop withthe manuals (which I also have), maybe it is because the brakes do need to be adjusted at all four corners...needed to push the pedal harder to the floor to stop that your "normally" should have to?

brakes on a 1967 4 wheel drim were not "self-adjusting" as later models were/are...

[cmking26]

Ok, Maybe tomorrow I'll try using the upper hole and run the engine to check it.

[DrSyntax]

In regards to the rod that links the booster to the master cylinder just check you have the right legnth as there can be a short and a long version. I am currently fitting a disc upgrade kit to my 69 and the kit came with a new power booster and master cylinder. The rod fitted to the booster was the short version but I had to pull that out and use a supplied longer version. If I hadn't noticed it would all have gone together fine but would probably have the just the symptoms described here ?

[cmking26]

Yup mine came with a short and a long as well. I used the long one which seemed to fit right.

[Steptoe]

If I hadn't noticed it would all have gone together fine but would probably have the just the symptoms described here ?

yes

[cmking26]

Ok, I tried using the upper brake pedal hole but the booster pushrod would not angle that far up. When Ibled the brakes the fluid never shot out with pressure it just oozed out. So Im thinking this is because the master is not pushing enough pressure. Or could something be wrong with my proportioning block? My best bet I think is to take the remand master back and get a new one to try.

[Steiner]

Try a $30 hand vacuum pump before you take it all apart. Get one that comes with the little brake bleeder cup.

Start out at the right rear, then left rear, then right front, then left front. Use the correct little nipple that sticks in the bleeder screw and pump until no more bubbles come up in the clear line going to the bleeder cup. It helps to have someone watching the master cylinder and adding fluid because it's not hard to drain one like this. It'll pull the air out of the entire circuit.

Also, insert the nipple in the bleeder screw first, pump a few times to build a vacuum, then start to crack the bleeder screw open. Open it no further than what it takes for fluid to start moving. If you open the bleeder too far, it pulls air around the threads.

[cmking26]

Alright, I ordered a vacuum bleeder kit from Harbor Freight it was $28 shipped. I'll try that and if it still doesnt work I'll go crazy.

[Steptoe]

Have you checked the pin length?
I have a vac bleeder....us it for checking and calibrating VA units on Dizzys
Meesed around with it bleeding brakes....havnt for yrs now, still use the old tried true pedel down method....
According to the local brake dhop guys...I have known them for over 30 yrs now and have top rep in street and race cars, custom setups etc...
" if cant bleed the tradtional way, there is something else wrong"
"if there is something else wrong, someone dies Im on manslaughter charges"
Thats the law in NZ.

[larryh56]

I would recommend removing the master and bleeding that again. I installed a completely new system and after bleeding the master and then the 4 wheels I had very little pedal. I removed the master to bleed it again and got quite a few more bubbles out and now the pedal is firm. If you are not experienced bleeding masters (like me) there are some good posts on here about that. I got a brake line at the parts place to cut in half and bend when bleeding the master. Steps is correct, any method should bleed the brakes, some are just easier when you are working alone.

[Calpantera]

I think you should pull the rod and measure it, sounds like the wrong rod length to me.

[cmking26]

Well I used the longer one. Not sure on a size but I have the shorter one laying around.

[Gar's67]

In your first post you mentioned that you used fuel line hose to connect the booster to the manifold. DOT Approved Vacuum hose is stronger and won't collapse like fuel hose can. That's why it's 4 to 5 times more $ per foot too. Get that changed.

[Steptoe]

Well I used the longer one. Not sure on a size but I have the shorter one laying around.

That still doesnt measn it is the right length
Check out older post as to how to measure for correct length and change
even 2mm makes a big diff..

DOT Approved Vacuum hose is stronger and won't collapse like fuel hose can.

Wrong..not can it will.

[cmking26]

I used the vacuum bleeder today, and tried switching to the shorter rod for the master. Still no movement in the brake pads when the pedal is pushed. Only thing else I can think of is I got a bad master or a line is sucking air at the proportioning block. Or all four wheels need adjusted, but I doubt that all four are that bad that none move at all.