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ugh! leaks!

4K views 39 replies 12 participants last post by  epluribus funk 
#1 ·
just got back for a nice little drive w/ the wife in the '69 to the local piggly wiggly and pull into the garage and surprise! a couple decent sized leaks under the car. :mad: the first one is about 2" in diameter puddle right under the back of engine where it bolts to bellhousing and the second is about 3" in diameter puddle but it's appears to be running down trans and then coming down (past bellhousing). i'm guessing rear main seal on the first but could the second be a trans leak? (m20) the oil looks to be same consistency but the leak by rear main seal was a little darker in color. can rear main seals be fixed wo/ tearing it all apart? see pic. thx for any advice.
 
#6 ·
My car did the same thing when I had the M21 and after I had the TKO installed. Small drip, sometimes on the back of oilpan, sometimes bell housing. To me this means motor (rear main seal?), not tranny. Maybe same for you. Not sure of an easy fix. Just put a foil pan with kitty litter on that spot and keep an eye on the dipstick.
 
#8 · (Edited)
thx for the replies guys-this site is awesome:thumbsup: i smelled the rear most puddle (which is now 5" in diameter:sad:) no funky smell. definately motor oil. (i use valvoline 80w-90 in trans) so i guess it's running past bell housing. can rear main be repaired wo/ ripping it all apart?:( it's a 96 lt1- fi- no dist. if that makes any dif
 
#12 ·
The expense was a tough pill to swallow but absolutely worth it to me. I intend to use the car as a daily driver and I just couldn't go on the freeway with the M21 close ratio. The PO had 195/60r15s on it! The engine was just screaming at 55mph. Felt for sure like it was going to barf a rod out the hood. With new wheels and tranny I cruise close to 80mph around 2200 rpm. Better gas mileage, more versatile and enjoyable to drive. Depends on how you intend to use your car but this was by far the best upgrade.
 
#15 ·
Did mine last year on my 67 350 auto. While it wasnt easy to do with motor in the car, its doable. I posted some pics a while back and theres a link with pics and a guide. Not sure if yours is a one or two piece seal. and I dont think a one piece can be done with motor in car.
Cheers
 
#14 · (Edited)
if you remove the tranny clutch and flywheel you can remove the seal with a flat screwdriver and a hammer. Coat the new seal with some RTV on the outside and tap it back Using a piece of 4" pvc pipe. the leak can also be from the oil pan gasket so when you have everything off check that also
 
#16 ·
hothead

Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Melb
Posts: 126 Name: Rocky

Here's the thread.

Steve's right, much easier to take engine out of the car. I did mine the other day in the car and it was a pain but as someone else suggested, doable. A couple of pics of the job if this helps.

Pulling old seal out.

Cap ready to go in.

Other half using the shoe horn.

Ready to put back together. As Steve mentioned make sure no RTV on the seal just where tha cap meets the block. Mine went in with about 10mm offset.
 
#17 · (Edited)
thx for the pics Rocky- well i got the pan off and found something very strange inside. my pan has got a huge nylon bolt type thing on the outside that's threaded into the pan and in the inside a 2 or 3" nylon probe that's pinched off at the end and there is 2 little white wire type things about an inch sticking out of that. it looks like those ties you see at the end of a loaf of bread! weird- also a 1" nylon spacer that was laying in the bottom of the pan. any clue what the heck they're for? see pic
 
#23 ·
Oh crud I have been reading this thread and did not realize this was a 96 lt1 BEFORE you go crazy with the rear main seal that is not the problem. The 96 lt1 had a gasket under the adapter for the oil filter and it is notorious for leaking I had a 96 impala and my bro in law also had the same problem so please try that first!
 
#24 ·
i did notice a fair amount of oil residue around my oil filter before i took the pan off Mike, hopefully that's all it is (cross fingers) Omar-i left the oil sensor in when i took off my pan-maybe i broke something (that little nylon washer) doing that. do i even need that sensor?
 
#25 ·
You do not need the oil sensor. But I would make sure it doesnt leak around or thru it. I dont know if they make a plug for it. It is probably a metric thread. You might be able to tap the middle of the sensor and put your own plug in it. That is what I did to a LS3 oil pressure sensor.
 
#27 ·
it's all good Mike- gave me a chance anyway to look up into the bowels of the mill and see what's doin'. everything looks clean-even noticed a cross-hatch pattern on one of cylinder walls (maybe piston does'nt go down that far-dunno) gonna reuse my oil pan gasket it's heavy duty rubber with metal inserts for the bolt holes. looked at a replacement one at oreillys and looked a little cheaper made. should i use laquer thinner or mineral spirits or carb cleaner to clean it up?
 
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