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| Team Camaro Tech Current Topic: Stainless window weatherstrip channel | ||
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| Body Shop Paint & Body Forum |
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#1
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After many months in the body shop, my car is finally coming back together. My question relates to the stainless window channel that the window weatherstripping fits into.
What sealer should I used when I reinstall the channel? The original sealer looks like it was a sponge like material, but with a tar-like material added in. There was also some white to light tan sealer on them as well. Any hints where to pick this stuff up? ------------------ Pearl blue & white 69 Camaro with supercharged 350, Tremec TKO, and 3.73 12-bolt See my website updated 9/01/00 at: www.geocities.com/gheatly |
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#2
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If you are talking about the moulding below the roof drip moulding then you could use 3M brand automotive bedding and glazing coumpound part number 08509 black in color, it will always stay semi soft or if you want the tan color you could use an all around body sealant ( 08500 is white ) I don't know the number for tan, but it should say on the tube. Carquest or NAPA or what ever auto parts warehouse should stock this stuff.
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#3
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gab, you are correct. I am talking about the molding directly beneath the drip rail. Thanks for the info. The original tan stuff has hardened slightly, but it still kind of soft.
The sponge/tar stuff in a pain in the butt to clean off, but so far, WD-40 seems to be doing the trick. |
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#4
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Try some 3m 'strip caulk'(its also called dum dum). Id stay away from the 3m 8509, that stuff was made for filling up the gap between the windshield(or back glass)and the car on the bottom so water doesnt sit down there and rot the pinchweld out.
------------------ 67 Camaro SS Conv. 70 Challenger R/T Conv. |
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#5
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I used some black thick (1/16") 3M 3/4" double-sided tape available at body shops when I did mine. It sealed very well and wasn't messy at all.
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#6
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Kevin,
It sounds like that product would be better than laying a strip of sealing putty. I was concerned about warping the channel because the putty can be hard to press into place. Do you have any more details on the product you used. Thanks. |
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#7
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The only reason the sealer is their is to keep water from comming back into the car from under the stainless.The stainless is attached by screws so the sealer dosent really matter as long as it stays soft but not runney when the summer months come back.
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#8
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Gene,
I cheaped out when I did mine but found a reasonable solution. Home Depot sells a grey strip putty that is used to seal seams around windows. It comes in an approx 3/4 wide strip with 1/8" lengthwise serations so that you can peel off a 1/8" bead. Lay it on and press it down (or up) by hand. It will not permanently stick. You can find it in the strip foam section and costs about $4. The sealer also works great for sealing the kick panels. MEK does a pretty good job of getting off the old oil-foam but is very aggressive on your skin. Carl ------------------ Click here to see see my car and hear 5-speeds. http://www.geocities.com/casanoc |
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#9
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Thanks for the info in this thread!
__________________
1968 Camaro NHRA/IHRA SS/C 'Super Stocker' 396/Jerico 1968 Street/Strip Camaro 350 w/PG 1968 Caprice NHRA/IHRA Stock ELiminator O/SA 327-250 HP Land of the Free Because of the Brave It Takes a Long Time to Grow Old Friends |
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#10
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3M strip caulk would is what I use.
__________________
Mike Redpath Musclerodz & Customz 405-735-8405 pro-touring parts specialists www.musclerodz.com facebook page http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/Mus...73054649402015 |
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