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| Team Camaro Tech Current Topic: TO Dyno or NOT to Dyno? | ||
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#1
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I am having a custom engine built for my 69 RS/SS. It is a high-performance 468. I want to get the engine Dyno'd before installation. I was told that would be approximately $400. Is this typical? How important is it to get the testing done? I am new to this process and would like some suggestions regarding how to proceed. Thanks.
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#2
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i had my engine dyno tuned after installation and that's what it cost me. that included tuning the carb and distributor and setting the best timing. i think it's worth it in the end, unless you plan on spending a ton of time testing at the track. the other benefit is having a good set of eyes on the motor while it's screaming its heart out so you can watch for leaks and such. if something bad is going to happen, i'd rather it happen on the dyno instead of in the car at 100+ mph!
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#3
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I assume dyno the engine before putting it in the car?
$400 is a good deal. Assuming it's a whole day. Advantages: Any issues with oil/water leaks can be fixed. The engine gets broken in under controled conditions. Any problem will be found. Your builder will be responsible! You can tune it for the best performance. When you drop it in the car, it's broken in and ready to hammer on! You get HP and TQ numbers! And can predict performance in the car. I've done the last 2 rat motors that have been in my Nova. The car has run as predicted. And I have gone to the track and had confidence that it's ready to race! Numbers are a bonus. Do it! Ron
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498" 69 Nova Pump Gas, full exh, driven to the track 9.91@133.63 N/A best W/4.10's 9.41@143 150 shot W/3.73's 2000 C5 Corvette Auto 11.10 @ 122.8 NA I'll be back for you Jack, and I'll let the machine speak! |
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#4
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I just had my 383 broken in and dynoed recently and it cost me $400. I feel it was well worth the money spent. I agree 100% with what John and Ron said plus it is a neat experience and absolute awesome to be right there and hear your motor screaming its lungs out at 7000rpm! I would not hesitate toi do it if you can afford to.
Tom |
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#5
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I know it makes no diffeance but how many guys have lost one on the dyno?
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Don TC # 349 Zdld17:69 Z/RS,306, NOR141111, 9N554XXX, 12A, X3G, 59/59,723, AFR 195,CCC282/290HR, TKO 600, BU1122B1E http://s102.photobucket.com/albums/m...t=115_1577.jpg |
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#6
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What Ron said!!!!!
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445 SBC 596 RWHP @ 6500 RPM 1.43 - 60' 6.36 - 1/8th mile 107.94 MPH - 1/8th mile 3650+ LB raceweight |
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#7
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No idea how many have been lost on a dyno but I would venture to say the number is far less than the number lost broken in improperly in the car. I would think that if the pulls on the dyno are reasonable and not stretching the outer limits of the motor the losses are prolly low. There are a number of guys here on the forum that operate dynos, perhaps they could chime in on this subject.
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#8
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Quote:
Dont blame the dyno... Before getting to the dyno...know what your wngine has been built to... ie 5000, or 9000 and work within those parameters. If it then 'goes' either something was wrong on the build...machining, pistion gaps, dynamic balancing etc OR the operator just didnt follow limitaion instructions and temptation got the better of him...yep that happens... And if that happens, a forensic engine expert will tell what happened.. I have an engine being examined by such a person at the monent..not dyno related. Also keep in mind a couple things.. 1/Dynos are not always accruate in out puts, unless they are regularlycalibtated...this dosnt mater for tuning as comparisons are what are used 2/The dyno doesnt tune, the operator, their knowlegde and experiance does.
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My Spelling is not incorrect...it is creative http://www.kakariki.net/camaro/Meguiars.jpg http://www.kakariki.net/camaro/BeauRep.jpg http://www.kakariki.net/camaro/xmasparade.jpg http://www.kakariki.net/camaro/trailer.jpg |
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#9
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My boss just had a nice 383 built for his 70 monte and had his engine dynoed before he put in the car. When it was dynoed they timed and jetted it to pull the most power out of it. But since he has installed it in the car and started driving it he found he had to jet it back down and take a smidge of the timing back out of it to actually be a little more tollerable to drive. So even though they may pull max out of it at the dyno it might not be as happy with those settings in the actual vehicle under various conditions. It will probably take a few tweaks and tuning to dial in for the way you drive it, but you should be real close right off the dyno. And its always nice to know what kind of punch your motor actually has.
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NEVER argue with a stupid person. They bring you down to their level, and then beat you with experience. |
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#10
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If you have the availability of one, time and money for it:
I say dyno it and try to have enough fun for me too while you're at it. I almost bought a dyno on ebay here awhile back(it went for ~ $2200 was a little primitive but right on capabilities), wish I had but I didn't have time to fetch it way down in Mississippi. Neighbors would have loved it I'm sure , andI know I woulda been in 7th heaven too. At $400 a pop, 6th or 7th engine I'm in the black.
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Tim Smith Last edited by 77wolf10.85; May 5th, 07 at 03:56 PM. |
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#11
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Thanks for the comments. I am going to have it dyno'd. The most important reason is to see if anything breaks before I take "ownership/responsibility" for the new motor. I want to limit my risk. Secondly, I want the numbers. People seem to talk a whole lot about what HP or TQ they get, but they are often guessing. I like to back myself up with facts.
Furthermore, based on your comments, I am going to try and be there in person when the testing is done. After I get 'er done, I will post some pics and some numbers. Thanks again! |
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#12
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I wonder what the comparison is on a chassis dyno? Is it a similar situation - tune all day, similar cost, etc.?
__________________
'69 Base 427 BBC +.030, 9.x:1 * 228/238 @ .050, .540" lift hyd flat tappet * 2.19" / 1.88" open, iron oval port, #3999241 * Edelbrock Performer RPM * Holley 830 Annular * HEI, Supercoil, 300+ wires * 4200 RPM Flash, TH400 * 3.70 posi 12-bolt |
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#13
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I spent a fewweeks bit here bit there road testing, hill tests, dizzy curves mixtures etc etc...BEFORE heading to the dyno...
Run up on the dyno....1/2hr later run off, no changes. Done this 3 times over the last 25yrs... Before dynoing get things as close as possible...learn to read plugs, learn about curves, timing, dynamic compression, octanes...the money u save will more than pay for your timing light etc.
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My Spelling is not incorrect...it is creative http://www.kakariki.net/camaro/Meguiars.jpg http://www.kakariki.net/camaro/BeauRep.jpg http://www.kakariki.net/camaro/xmasparade.jpg http://www.kakariki.net/camaro/trailer.jpg |
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#14
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Here is a link for a chassis dyno in the Rockford, Illinois area. (10 Minutes North) Click on the Dyno link on the left to see the prices. http://www.eurotechperformance.net Very reasonable.
Any and ALL cars welcome. National record holder Bob Kurgan of Kurgan Motorsports uses this shop to dyno tune Mustangs. See Bob here: http://www.kurganmotorsports.com
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1967 Camaro SS 396 Mike 60'- 1.687 1/8 mile- 7.415 @ 93.49 MPH 1/4 mile- 11.608 @ 122.43 MPH |
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#15
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Id rather chasis dyno after get it tuned with your exhaust behind your tranny/rear
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