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| Team Camaro Tech Current Topic: Help.. rust spots | ||
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| Body Shop Paint & Body Forum |
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#1
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My trunk lid seemed to be in great shape. It was strait and clean. I ended up replacing almost everything else but it looked good. I have the shell ready to paint with self etching primmer. I wanted to strip the trunk lid and paint it at the same time. When the paint came off there were rust spots under the paint. None are bigger than a dime and most are the size of a pin head. Any suggestings on what to do. Spot blast? Rust converter (won't work with the self etching primmer)? Light sanding (120g) helped but the spots are still there.
------------------ 1969 Camaro 350 & 1969 Impala SS 427/ 4-speed (restored) |
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#2
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It might be cheaper to just replace the trunk lid, than to keep patching it up, that's what I did,as mine had the same thing as yours,and kept getting little rust flakes, falling out of the holes,from up on the inside.
------------------ http://www.fototime.com/inv/E695F2E9BD55636 http://hobbystage.net/camaro/tomstv |
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#3
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I fitted the quarters using this lid and everything lines up great. I don't want to give up on it....anyone else?
------------------ 1969 Camaro 350 & 1969 Impala SS 427/ 4-speed (restored) |
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#4
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Maybe acid bath it. It was an old trick for lightening bodys for drags which would get rid of internal support rust also. I'm not sure of the flash rust charicteristics when doing the rinse the acid solution off. I'd figure some of the experts might be at galvanizing / plating places for how to treat then get back to a surface you could use your same etching primer on. I just dremeled the recently purchased 71 SS350 front disc caliper pistons and housings to get rid of storage rust that had the front brakes dragging heavily. So my first response is actually DREMEL. And I'll also advise the newer DOT 4 brake fluid since it doesn't have the suck water features during storage like DOT 3.
You can get muratic acid which is a watered down hydrocloric acid available at pool and spa supply places. Don't think it's being water down means it's tamed. It still steams sitting there and will rip the linings right out of your nose, eyes, lungs and anything else. Good luck with the Hawaiian cancer more known in the mainland as rust. |
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#5
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When I was doing my coupe I found the same thing as well. It appeared that the rust was starting from inside the panel and working it's way to the exterior.Simply put, it was too late to save her. Like Tom said, it would be a real easy thing to do and replace it. If it makes you feel better, the replacement I got (NPD) was a real good fit, and the fit was to a unmolested GM quarters, as I did patch panels, so the trunk opening was original. If you really feel like sanding and blocking, you can do it to the replacement panel because they always come pre-dinged. Good luck.
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#6
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Dan,
Read up on some posts regarding Por-15. I have used this stuff extensively, and feel confident knowing that it leaves a protective coating of zinc oxide in between the paint and the metal. It won't bubble up after a few years. I painted my exhaust manifolds over a year ago, and they still look like they came right out of the box! Dan |
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#7
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Thanks DanB but Por-15 is (I believe) difficult to spray and I don't think it is a cure all. I have used it in many places but I don't think this is the right one. I know MartinSr doesn't believe in it. What would Martin do??
------------------ 1969 Camaro 350 & 1969 Impala SS 427/ 4-speed (restored) |
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