[JimM]

This thread will go thru installing a set of gauges to monitor how my engine is running and help to tune it. This setup I think would apply regardless of the induction / fuel delivery system used, and is just as valid with a carb as with EFI.

I'll be using AutoMeter ultra-lite guages (they match the oil pressure, temp, fuel, & volts guages in my console) and installing them in the top center of the dash in a non a/c 68.

Gauges used are:
#4378 wide band O2
#4384 Vacuum
#4360 Fuel pressure 0-30, electric

I'll also be using an angle mount ring kit to get the gauges closer to vertical in the steeply sloped dash.

#2234 3 pack 2 1/6" angle mount rings

The wideband gauge is gawd-awful expensive @ $349, but it can be tied into my (eventual) pcm to provide Wideband O2 correction there as well.

The vacuum gauge may someday be replaced with a vac-boost gauge, hehe.

The 30 lb fuel pressure gauge will be perfect for my planned TBI setup, carb guys would want a 15psi, port inj. guys would want a 100.

These 3 gauges plus my tach will give me the important info just as if I wasd driving with a pc hooked up to the efi all the time.

[JimM]

And the very first thing I learned, found this on Innovate's site:

When installed in the exhaust, the oxygen sensor MUST be
connected and operating with the LC-1 whenever the car is running.
An un-powered oxygen sensor will be quickly damaged when
exposed to hot exhaust gases.

So, while my first inclination with a project like this would be to do the undercar stuff first, I guess not this time.

[paulm]

Originally Posted by JimM

I'll also be using an angle mount ring kit to get the gauges closer to vertical in the steeply sloped dash.

Good idea.

Originally Posted by JimM

So, while my first inclination with a project like this would be to do the undercar stuff first, I guess not this time.

Did you get an O2 bung with a plug? If so you can weld in the bung and screw in the plug for now. Since you're not using the gauge to drive an ECU, you can still start with the exhaust worst case you'll just have a hole in your exhaust until you get everything finished.

[JimM]

Originally Posted by paulm

Did you get an O2 bung with a plug? If so you can weld in the bung and screw in the plug for now. Since you're not using the gauge to drive an ECU, you can still start with the exhaust worst case you'll just have a hole in your exhaust until you get everything finished.

The gauge came with a stainless bung and a plug. I also bought a mild steel bung that I'll be able to weld with my MIG.
Basically I'm just too lazy to jack the car up twice.
I don't have the fuel pressure gauge yet, so I can't finish today regardless.
I'll get the basics done, holes drilled, harness made, today, install the gauges and button up topside Tuesday, and get the O2 in the exhaust Tuesday or Wednesday.

The front center dash trim plate is so thin I'm able to back it with a 2x4 and rough cut the gauge holes with a boxcutter, then sand to size with a lil 1" dremel style drum sander in the die grinder. Need to go to menards for some more of those lil sanding drums.

[Mark .L.W.]

Yes the wide band sensors need to be heated at all times while the car is running . The NTK sensor that comes with the Holley kit are not cheap but well worth it .
Mark.

[paulm]

Originally Posted by JimM

Basically I'm just too lazy to jack the car up twice.

You should only have to jack it up once to weld in the bung. I've never had to jack up my car to change the O2 sensor.

[BPOS]

Jim - I welded the stainless bung to my exhaust with MIG no problem. Regular wire, too.

[JimM]

It's soo darn hard to get garage time during the week

[Mark .L.W.]

If you use stainless wire it comes out really nice .
Mark.

[JimM]

I'll just use the plain steel bung.
And Mark, it's obvious you haven't seen my welding.
I do need to move this along, and get some pics up, this thread is getting boring.

[camcojb]

Originally Posted by JimM

I do need to move this along, and get some pics up, this thread is getting boring.

Jody

[paulm]

Originally Posted by JimM

And Mark, it's obvious you haven't seen my welding.

Ha! If the welds don't turn out nice, just grab the grinder and make them look nice! That's what I've heard anway, I wouldn't know as my welds are perfect every time!

[JimM]

ok, well managed to re-register my FTP program after the vista upgrade ate the passcode so I'm back in the picture business!

There is just enough room to get the gauges and angle rings in there. I removed a lil material from the top backside of the rings so they fit just over the chrome trim and get up out of the heater control opening.

The metal is so thin I was able to rough cut the holes with a boxcutter, I used a small sanding drum in a die grinder to finish grind the holes.

Had to open up the dash metal a lil.

I installed a new connector on my console gauge harness to bring power, ground, and illumination up to the new guages.

Used a -6 male / female / Tee connector to install the pressure sender between the fuel filter and the carb, also Tee'd off the distributor vac hose for the vac gauge, brought the wires in thru an existing hole in the firewall.

Here's the finished gauge install in the dash. Tonight I'll get the O2 sensor installed and see how they work.

For those looking to put the standard 3 gauges in a 67-68 without a console, this location would work well for temp, oil pressure and volts, too. Right up high and easy to see.

[JimM]

Well.... 2 steps forward one step back. the gauge project is virtually complete, just have to test em with the motor running to make sure they work before putting the last few screws in the console. Had to go to napa, on the initial test, the light in the vac gauge diudn't work!

Engine running test will have to wait. While I was jacking her up to put the O2 bung on, the crossmember spit the jack out , radiator came down on jack. Need to order another alluminum rad and put the ole harrison back on.

[JimM]

Ok, done and all back together. Leaned my idle a bit, got almost 15" vac, 14.3 AFR @ 700 rpm fully warm.

I think I'm gonna apply my belt sander to the spare set of angle rings, see if I can get a better tilt so I can see em better, can't see the LED display.



Question: Why does it go rich if I just rev it and hold it in the garage?
750 rpm = 14.3
1000=14
1500=13.3
2000=12.5
3000=12