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| Team Camaro Tech Current Topic: Fiberglass body panels | ||
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#1
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Hi All
I finally pulled the hammer on my dream car a 1968 camaro RS (pb, ps, and AC). My hope is to one day turn this into a pro-touring machine. Heres my question. It needs some new front sheet metal and I was considering getting the fiberglass body panels (up22.com). The idea being the weight savings would help the weight distribution front and rear. Any comments. Thanks Jacob |
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#2
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Quote:
Jody |
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#3
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Welcome to the site.
Ahh, the o'le "just got my camaro what should I buy" post ![]() So many things, too many after market parts. I would recommend hanging around and asking questions before pulling the trigger on fiberglass panels. I would stick with original metal myself. I've learned a lot over the past year and you will too. You should look at http://lateral-g.net for other members building camaro pro touring cars. There are many. Welcome to the site. I live in Concord. Rich
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AFR Heads W/ Jesel valve train http://www.fquick.com/Rich-Allen 67 RS / SS http://eastbayerectors.com/camaro.html |
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#4
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Thanks Jody and Rich
Jody Usually when a company has bad customer service I avoid it like the plague. But when they have both bad products AND bad service, then its an easy decision for me. Thanks for the input. That said, assuming that I can find some good fiberglass pieces, are there any cons to using fiberglass (I really want to keep weight down Rich Thanks for the pointers. I saw a few of you posts on the board. I am following your cuurent post about the LS1. That is the direction I am headed so it would be great for me to be able to pick your brain sometime. BTW I am in Santa Clara. Also who have you used for a body shop here Jacob |
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#5
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I have a few friends that run alomst all fibergalss panels on their drag cars.I.e. fenders, quarters, deck lid ,hood doors. I believe 1 of then only has a metal roof! I would have to say you can tell. They dont have quicky paint jobs or anything, the cars look as good as they are fast. But thats just it their drag cars. Unless your in to shaving some secs. off your 1/4 mile I would give it some real thought. Again thats just me, I like metal.
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#6
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Jacob, I haven't heard of anyone using fiberglass fenders on their project.
I have seen carbon fiber. If you decide to with an ls motor then I don't think weight will be a big problem. What are you doing with the car? The Red Witch uses a carbon fiber hood and it looks sick. Jody builds a lot of pro-touring cars. His talent and craftsmanship are 1st class. He can answer most any question you have regarding these builds. My project is just getting off the ground. I welded my AFR heads and had them recently machined. I pick them up today. Rich
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AFR Heads W/ Jesel valve train http://www.fquick.com/Rich-Allen 67 RS / SS http://eastbayerectors.com/camaro.html |
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#7
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To me, there are easier ways to get the weight down first. For example, my car weighs just a tick over 3000lbs without driver...meaning it's 2900-ish dry. The big weight saving components are:
LS1 engine AME Subframe Composite leaf springs Odyssey battery Other than that it's full interior, original body, steel driveshaft, 18" wheels, 12-bolt, 14" discs, etc etc...so it could go alot lighter if I really wanted to. You also need to be smart on where you put the weight, not just the overall total. I ended up with a 53/47 front/rear weight distribution, and 50/50 left/right.
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Matt Jones Lead Mechanical Engineer Art Morrison Ent. Inc. |
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#8
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Thanks guys
I must say I really appreciate the quick responses. Rich what are you doing up at 5:30 in the morning??? I did check out Jody's web page and holy crap those are some awesome cars. When I am eventually done, I am hoping to have an LS2 with a T56 (In my dreams, I would love to have the C5 transaxle.) I am looking at an IRS. Replace the front sub-frame with an an aftermarket one (I don't know which yet). Interior wise mostly stock (tunes and AC a must). Primary goals are hp (~400-500) and handling. This is a loooonnnnggggg term project, so it has to be a driver between stages. Writing this down has made me realize I should write down somewhere my ultimate goals for this car. Silver69Camaro Thanks for the info. 2900 is a really nice number. One of the reasons I was considering fiberglass was the 57/43 number. I did some initial reading (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Car_handling) and would like to get it as close to 50/50 as possible. (I am still learning, so I dont know if this is within my reach) Thanks Again guys Jacob |
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#9
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Jacob,
50/50 is ideal for most cars, but you'll pay big time to get the extra 3% difference. That's moving 90lbs off of the front (in my car, for instance), and placing it in the rear. I'd be paying alot of money to do that (fiberglass hood, bumper, lightweight seats, etc). Not worth it IMO, and this car does see track time...better off putting it towards tires and brake pads. You can adjust the spring rates to match anyway. Another calculation: For my car, to match my springs for a 50/50 distribution, I'd reduce my front springs by 33lbs and the rear by 10. This is how little the difference is.
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Matt Jones Lead Mechanical Engineer Art Morrison Ent. Inc. |
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#10
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Thanks Matt
That is really good info. I don't want to bother you, but could you point me to a good resource that explains the spring rate calculations for a 50/50 dist JAcob |
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#11
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I'd pick up a copy of Herb Adam's Chassis Engineering, then step up to Milliken's Race Car Vehicle Dynamics if you're really interested.
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Matt Jones Lead Mechanical Engineer Art Morrison Ent. Inc. |
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#12
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Quote:
Here's my LS2 Rich
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AFR Heads W/ Jesel valve train http://www.fquick.com/Rich-Allen 67 RS / SS http://eastbayerectors.com/camaro.html |
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#13
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Rich
You're up at 3:45?? Do you own a bakery or something?? Whatever it is, it pays for that beautiful motor. Man that is nice Matt Thanks for the info. I look those books up Jacob |
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#14
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That engine is SWEET! I must wash my undies now.
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