[CamFrk68]

I have never swapped out a before and I'm just checking to see what is all involved. My 350 motor is out of the car and I figured now would be a good time for the swap. I've always had machine shops mess with the internals, but this time I would like to try this one my self. I've never degreed a cam not know how to do it. Any tips or links on this proceedure

thanks

[ridinbikes247]

Originally Posted by CamFrk68

I have never swapped out a before and I'm just checking to see what is all involved. My 350 motor is out of the car and I figured now would be a good time for the swap. I've always had machine shops mess with the internals, but this time I would like to try this one my self. I've never degreed a cam not know how to do it. Any tips or links on this proceedure

thanks

im 22 and just took apart my motor to replace the cam and i have a 350....started by taking vavle covers off, and then loosening up the intake and left the carb attached...took the intake off then moved on to loosening the valves and removing the push rods, then i removed the lifters..then started on the radiator which urs is out of the car so water pump, power steering pump, altenator and fuel pump then timing cover...and there it is just yank it out......i paid somebody to degree myn and break it in because i dont feel like messing with it again so i dunno how to put on in jus take it apart

[paperman]

Not trying to be a smart a, but try books a million, a couple of books there have great instructions and tons of pics. Rebuilding the small block chevy by car tech includes a 2 hour video.

[Larger Dave]

Something mentioned in the literature of how to change a cam, but often glossed over in older publications is the need for GM-EOS (Engine Oil Supplement) with every oil change unless you are going to use racing oil (marked "not legal or street use") with a flat tappet lifters. All motor oils now made do not have enough ZDDP (Zinc Dialkyl Dithio Phosphate) to support a flat tappet cam because all of the major manufactures of car engines went to roller tappets 25 years ago, and it causes contamination of catalytic converters which are now required on all motorized vehicles including diesel truck engines (that is were the not legal part comes in).

Buy a cam handle to install the bump stick because it is very easy to score a cam bearing. Get help before you crank it up because everything has to be perfect before you crank the engine. Once fired the engine must stay above 2,500 RPM (to splash lubricating oil off the crankshaft onto the lifters and cam) for at least 20 minutes to break in a flat tappet cam.

If your timing is off, you have an oil leak, your carb leaks, or any other problem; you could loose the cam before you find and fix the problem. If you do happen to wipe out the cam you will then have to tear down the motor to get out all of the metal that used to be the cam lobe(s) and the bottom of your lifter(s) out of the motor.

A hydraulic roller cam has no break in period to worry about so if you have a newer 350 with a roller cam ignore the above (except the part about the cam handle).


Larger Dave

[novaderrik]

it's like anything else- just take things apart until you can get the old one out, then put the new one in and put it back together the way it came apart.
easy..

[JD4020]

I totally agree with Brian, Dave, and novaderrik. The cam installation itself, is pretty straight forward. It's all the other installation process that you need to be aware of, ie setting valve lash, installing and timing the distributor, installing the intake, etc. A good book would cover all of these things, and none of them are rocket science, each is just a unique process.

Not sure if others would agree or not, but I wouldn't get hung up on degreeing the cam. All you are really doing is verifying the cam is what it was spec'd out to be. and making minute changes to get the timing preciseley, exactly, dead on. On a stock or even mild-moderate performace engine, this really isn't necessary. Now on a high performance, radical camshaft, then I think it is a little more critical, and degreeing the camshaft would be beneficial.

Jon

[scblucam]

Like if you are going for broke on the dyno. I don't think this is warranted for a first timer. But pay attention to the lube requirements cited elswhere.

[fatblock]

Originally Posted by CamFrk68

I have never swapped out a before and I'm just checking to see what is all involved. My 350 motor is out of the car and I figured now would be a good time for the swap. I've always had machine shops mess with the internals, but this time I would like to try this one my self. I've never degreed a cam not know how to do it. Any tips or links on this proceedure

thanks

Ken..If you are changing your cam profile,piston to valve clearance will need to checked.The new grind should be installed on the manufactures reccomended intake center line.This requires a degree wheel.
If your new cam is a mirror of the old..reinstall as it was removed.Check your crank gear for 0 vs +4/-4.That would be a multi index gear.Same for the cam gear.Look for an offset bushing installed.If this is a total stock combo and the valve timing is not altered..a straight up install is a safe bet..the combo is already proven and has worked in the past with no clearance issues.