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  #1  
Old Sep 9th, 07, 04:08 PM
zdld17 zdld17 is offline
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Don
 
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Default Wiper Switch Testing

I am down for maintenance and have my dash carrier out. I suspect wiper switch faults as for about 15 years now, I have not been able to shut wiper motor off and allow the wiper arms to come to park position. I the motor has its ground and wiper switch also has the ground wire attached to the headlamp swith and dash via lead wire.

What I am trying to find out is , does any one know what the switch testing procedures are ? So far I have continuity between ground and first speed knotch. This is a two speed switch with washer. Washer side works when depressed. Anyone ??? This is on a 69.
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  #2  
Old Sep 9th, 07, 05:14 PM
JimM JimM is offline
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Default Re: Wiper Switch Testing

You should have ground on the dark blue wire on low speed, and on the light blue wire on high speed.

The park circuit is internal to the motor itself, and uses the lil ground strap to the top left screw to keep the motor turning. If it won't park but otherwise works, it's not the switch.
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  #3  
Old Sep 9th, 07, 05:33 PM
zdld17 zdld17 is offline
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Default Re: Wiper Switch Testing

Quote:
Originally Posted by JimM View Post
You should have ground on the dark blue wire on low speed, and on the light blue wire on high speed.

The park circuit is internal to the motor itself, and uses the lil ground strap to the top left screw to keep the motor turning. If it won't park but otherwise works, it's not the switch.

Jim, I have instrument carrier out and looking at the back. Are you saying that with my fluke tied to black wire that is attached to ground brace, that I should have continuity to the center terminal and to its left as I move the switch from the low to hight position?

I have it in the office, with fluke attatched to ground strap thats connected to switch body, other lead , I have a closed circuit to center terminal which is low, and nothing on the hi position.
Motor speeds were working but would not park so I think I will concentrate the motor now.
Take that back, on low switch position, I have closed circuit on two terminal, center and to my left. but on high position, I have only closed on center terminal and open or no reading on very left.
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TC # 349
Zdld17:69 Z/RS,306, NOR141111, 9N554XXX, 12A, X3G, 59/59,723, AFR 195,CCC282/290HR, TKO 600, BU1122B1E
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Last edited by zdld17; Sep 9th, 07 at 05:58 PM.
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Old Sep 9th, 07, 06:31 PM
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KevinW KevinW is offline
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Default Re: Wiper Switch Testing

Don, if it doesnt park, then you must have a bad ground on the motor to the firewall. I would check both the motor housing and switch housing and be sure you have good grounds.
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Old Sep 9th, 07, 06:33 PM
zdld17 zdld17 is offline
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Default Re: Wiper Switch Testing

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Originally Posted by KevinW View Post
Don, if it doesnt park, then you must have a bad ground on the motor to the firewall. I would check both the motor housing and switch housing and be sure you have good grounds.

Good ground, added another, So I am leaning on internal motor issues, Its more than 15 years old and that was the issue with the orginal... What I thought all along but I have never let this site address it. Think we are all on same page.
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Old Sep 9th, 07, 07:08 PM
JimM JimM is offline
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Default Re: Wiper Switch Testing

Don, not quite sure which is laft and which is right....

Diagram I have shows low speed is center ternimal.

LEft? is washer

Right? is high speed.

Pushing the bottun for wash should give you both wash and low
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Old Sep 10th, 07, 03:40 AM
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Default Re: Wiper Switch Testing

Quote:
Originally Posted by zdld17 View Post
Good ground, added another, So I am leaning on internal motor issues, Its more than 15 years old and that was the issue with the orginal... What I thought all along but I have never let this site address it. Think we are all on same page.
The internal park mech is a bump (green gear in pic) on one of the gears in the rear case. The bump opens up two contacts (to the left of the fuse looking thing) to break the circuit. When wiper is on, ground flows from 2 connections, the switch and the motor (through 1 grommet around the 11:00 oclock position). Power is always on to the motor. Opening the switch grounds the circuit and moves the gear past the bump to open that ground path. When you turn the switch off, the ground path changes from the switch to the motor and the motor continues to turn until the bump opens up the contacts breaking the circuit.



The only way to check it is to open it up. But I still think you should put a ground wire on the motor base and run it to body with clean unpainted connection just to be sure before you take the motor apart.
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Old Sep 10th, 07, 03:44 AM
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Default Re: Wiper Switch Testing

Quote:
Originally Posted by zdld17 View Post
I am down for maintenance and have my dash carrier out. I suspect wiper switch faults as for about 15 years now, I have not been able to shut wiper motor off and allow the wiper arms to come to park position. I the motor has its ground and wiper switch also has the ground wire attached to the headlamp swith and dash via lead wire.

What I am trying to find out is , does any one know what the switch testing procedures are ? So far I have continuity between ground and first speed knotch. This is a two speed switch with washer. Washer side works when depressed. Anyone ??? This is on a 69.
You have my wiper bench test diagram, right? you just need to make sure you have 0 ohms in all switch positions.

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  #9  
Old Sep 10th, 07, 03:45 AM
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Default Re: Wiper Switch Testing

Quote:
Originally Posted by JimM View Post
Don, not quite sure which is laft and which is right....

Diagram I have shows low speed is center ternimal.

LEft? is washer

Right? is high speed.

Pushing the bottun for wash should give you both wash and low
Off is to the left on a 69
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  #10  
Old Sep 10th, 07, 04:53 AM
zdld17 zdld17 is offline
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Default Re: Wiper Switch Testing

As per switch terminal operation, Yes I understand that, we are all on same page here. . I will reground motor again and add some jumpers to verify all this, The drawings are helpful , Thank you Jim and Kevin. Just need to find a roundtoit today . Its getting bad when work gets in the way of toys. Guess thats what retirement is for. Got car tore apart ,up on jacks and motor on floor and its not snowing yet. If it was not for long cruises to areas that have rain, I would not be messing with wipers as we only get 12" a year.
I just want to make sure dash switch is good as its easier to replace now while inst carrier is out.
I am also in middle of replacing the clutch pedal to Z bar rod. This is the second rod that the pins have wore down on. Eric Krammer sent me a nice link from Speed Direct.com that sells the ready made rod with hiem joints on it along with the lower adjustable rod also. Nice piece. So pedal will have to be redrilled for that and I presume its hardened stuff and will have to come out. So do it now before the cruising starts again.
https://cmc.speeddirect.com/AMAZING/items.asp?CartId={AEVEREST3CA65A7-3482-4D89-AE9F-C2C0CEB57FCE}&Cc=CAM67%2D69&iTpStatus=0&Tp=&Bc=
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Zdld17:69 Z/RS,306, NOR141111, 9N554XXX, 12A, X3G, 59/59,723, AFR 195,CCC282/290HR, TKO 600, BU1122B1E
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