[dbx1969]

So I'm just beginning to do the PS conversion. Had to move my headers out of the way...and STILL found it extremely difficult to reach the 2 rag joint nuts. The nuts spun when I tried to move the bolts, so I had to get to the back side. I actually had to use a miniature pair of pliers to hold the rag nut closest to the fender, while I used a ratchet wrench through a hole in the darn wheel well. I've disconnected the column and have pulled the column back. What I'm really worried about now, is how the heck I'm going to be able to tighten the bolts on the new one! There is no room for a socket...and I was lucky to 1/10th turns getting the old ones off. Is there some best kept secret reaching these damn nuts/bolts? I'm going back to remove the rag joint and hope....hope to hear something encouraging when i return

[Myfirst 69SS]

Let me know how you make out. AS you probably already know I am in the middle of the same upgrade.

[dbx1969]

Originally Posted by Myfirst 69SS

Let me know how you make out. AS you probably already know I am in the middle of the same upgrade.

I will. Looks like I'll lose light way before I'm even close. The pump bracket arrangement is baffling me a bit now. Remember, I have no old one to look at. I got the old box off, pitman arm etc., and I think I can see how it'll be easier because I'm connecting the ragjoint OUT of the car to the new box .

Okay, embarrassing to ask, but...does the pressure hose go on the hole/side closest to engine? I'm just trying to put the inserts in and seat them right now.

[BPOS]

Pressure hose is furthest forward and inboard, return line closest to firewall and outboard.

[dbx1969]

Originally Posted by BPOS

Pressure hose is furthest forward and inboard, return line closest to firewall and outboard.

Thanks, Al. Phew! I saw pics and decided the beefiest looking line (metal wrap at the end) HAD to be pressure line, so I' just seated on insert (thank God, the right on ). About to do return line.

Al, any pics of how the brackets fit on the engine. The cradle bracket has me a bit baffled, as the "hook" on the lower back side shows in the manual where a washer, lock washer & nut go...but where does the "stud" come from where these washers and nut go? On the engine somewhere perhaps? I've pre-attached the bracket that has a slot in it (like an alt. bracket), and I'm pretty sure the long bracket attaches to the manifold (1st bolt hole) and then goes down...somewhere. This is mentally challenging since I'm 1., not a pro, 2., Didn't take off an old one, 3., don't have an old one to look at. I'm kinda blind here.

EDIT: Also, how far back does the ragjoint need to go on the box shaft? There are beginning grooves...a space/valley...and then a few more grooves at the beginning of the shaft.

[Myfirst 69SS]

The long bracket attaches to the first exhaust manifold bolt and the motor mount bolt at the front. Stud coming off the back of the pump ist for the slotted hole on the cradle (flat washer, lock washer and nut) two bolts hold it on in front of the pump, the top bolt hole gets a spacer between the bracket and the pump. If you do not have a 1/4 inch spacer use 3-4 flat waashers.
This is exactly what I did today and it is dead on right, fit and lines up with crank pulley perfectly.

[dbx1969]

Originally Posted by Myfirst 69SS

The long bracket attaches to the first exhaust manifold bolt and the motor mount bolt at the front. Stud coming off the back of the pump ist for the slotted hole on the cradle (flat washer, lock washer and nut) two bolts hold it on in front of the pump, the top bolt hole gets a spacer between the bracket and the pump. If you do not have a 1/4 inch spacer use 3-4 flat waashers.
This is exactly what I did today and it is dead on right, fit and lines up with crank pulley perfectly.

Okay, my pump did not come with a stud on the back and I didn't get one with the pump kit. Figures. My pump hardware came with the spacer for the cradle bracket, but it's for the front side (middle hole). You're saying there's another place one is needed?

I have another, more immediate, dilemma; As I'm trying to get the steering column onto the new ragjoint (I'v got it on there), I realize I have two different sized bolt holes in the "plate" on the column that the rag joint connects to. My original rag joint had two different sized threaded bolts, but the same size heads. The new RJ has the same sized bolts. Is this normal? If normal, I assume this means I have to disengage the column again and turn it around 180 degrees? I hope someone knows what the heck I'm talking about here. It's always some aggravating BS like this. The box came off easy, as did the pitman arm. The simple little ragjoint seems to be my biggest PITA right now. I swapped the smaller bolt form the old one and used it for one side, but now I need a smaller nut for the other one.

I quit about an hour ago, losing daylight...picked up...covered car...cut the grass. I'll have to start back on it tomorrow.

[Myfirst 69SS]

From waht I remeber the rag joint can only go on one way because of the different size studs that mate up with the column.

As far as the pump stuff goes, page 401 in the assy manual shows where the spacer goes.

[dbx1969]

Originally Posted by Myfirst 69SS

From waht I remeber the rag joint can only go on one way because of the different size studs that mate up with the column.

As far as the pump stuff goes, page 401 in the assy manual shows where the spacer goes.

Thanks, Mark. 401 is where I saw where the one spacer that came with my kit goes. I thought you mentioned needing another one?

Anyway, JimM had given me an outline of steps to do this, and he mentioned the rag joint going on "one way". But I thought for sure that he just meant the pins/bolts going into the plate like a no-brainer, but now I'm pretty sure it's possible to try to install it 180 degrees the wrong way where the different bolt threads don't match up. It just looked to me like the new RJ's bolts were the same thread size. Hmmm.maybe they weren't. I assumed a previous owner may have swapped bolts out thus, the different thread sizes. I can't see why GM would use two different sizes. I've PM'd Jim to ask him about this.

Oh yeah. another great thing: My headers WILL touch/push-on the new box. I read where someone said they grinded a little off their box. Is there another option...like denting manifold? And does the heat from the headers effect the gear box?

[JIML82]

Your flexible coupling should look like this. You want the different size bolts in the correct locations otherwise you can end up with your steering wheel upside down. These two pictures should describe the flexible coupling.


Note, in the first picture the steering column is a tilt column and has a detachable flange. Standard (non-adjustable) columns have a stamped flange that is permanently staked to the steering column shaft. They both attach to the flexible coupling in the same way.
BTW, the flexible coupling should be assembled all the way onto the gear input shaft. The 12 point clamp (pinch) bolt should easily pass through the notch on the input shaft. Then tighten it to 30 ft-lbs.
Jim

[dbx1969]

Thanks, Jim. It's becoming ever so clear that I'll have to detach the column again, and turn it 180 for these to line up. Hey, I had a 50/50 shot...and blew it .

I still need clarification on these three things: (for now, lol)

1. What size threaded stud do I need for the back of my pump/res (the one that fits on the slot on bottom of cradle bracket)? Nothing came in my hardware kit, and it didn't come with the pump. And I'd guess it's double threaded?

2. As I was just out in my garage cleaning up, I damn near threw away 2 tiny O-rings that came in the gearbox box. How do these rings fit on the pressure fitting? Just set them inside/on top of inserts before threading the pressure fitting...or do I stretch them over the flared end of fitting so the threaded nut will squeeze them when tightened?

3. Is it okay to have manifold touching the gearbox?

[JimM]

1. 3/8-16 (standard 3/8 coarse) The "correct" part is indeed a "threaded rod with a nut fixed in the middle" If you have to, you can use a 3/8" bolt. You may need to use one or more spacers to make up for the "missing nut". The pump needs to fit snuggly in the cradle.

When I've done this, I've attached the cradle to the pump, then put the whole mess in the car, it's just easier that way. (note I think that's what those instructions I types up said... put the brackets on the pump, then put the pump in the car.

Since you have headers, you'll need a spacer where the adjustment bracket attaches to the exhaust. This is probably the spacer that came in your kit.

2. Throw away the o rings, you don't need them.

3. Nope, the headers can't touch the gearbox. Sorry. From what I've seen, they mostly hit on the front upper corner, near where the ahiny plate bolts on, and people have posted about grinding maybe an 1/8" off there so it would clear. You can also "adjust" your header tubes. Easiest way to do this would be to bolt the headers on tight, then hammer a suitable tool between the tube and the steering gear. My personal favorite tool is a wide (2"?) flat prybar that's maybe an 1/8" thick.

1/8" clearance is sufficient.

[BPOS]

Originally Posted by JimM

1. 3/8-16 (standard 3/8 coarse)



Since you have headers, you'll need a spacer where the adjustment bracket attaches to the exhaust. This is probably the spacer that came in your kit.

Here is a picture of the spacer. It makes up for the thickness of the stock exhaust manifold.

[dbx1969]

Originally Posted by JimM

1. 3/8-16 (standard 3/8 coarse) The "correct" part is indeed a "threaded rod with a nut fixed in the middle" If you have to, you can use a 3/8" bolt. You may need to use one or more spacers to make up for the "missing nut". The pump needs to fit snuggly in the cradle.

When I've done this, I've attached the cradle to the pump, then put the whole mess in the car, it's just easier that way. (note I think that's what those instructions I types up said... put the brackets on the pump, then put the pump in the car.

Since you have headers, you'll need a spacer where the adjustment bracket attaches to the exhaust. This is probably the spacer that came in your kit.

2. Throw away the o rings, you don't need them.

3. Nope, the headers can't touch the gearbox. Sorry. From what I've seen, they mostly hit on the front upper corner, near where the ahiny plate bolts on, and people have posted about grinding maybe an 1/8" off there so it would clear. You can also "adjust" your header tubes. Easiest way to do this would be to bolt the headers on tight, then hammer a suitable tool between the tube and the steering gear. My personal favorite tool is a wide (2"?) flat prybar that's maybe an 1/8" thick.

1/8" clearance is sufficient.

Yes, you wrote it up that way, Jim (assemble pump/brackets & then install). Also, I like the pry-bar idea,,,because I'd have to pull the box back out if I grinded it, lol.

I'm trusting you on the O-rings, lol, even though the little card says "warning...must use, blah, blah blah...or they'll leak".

I'll guess I'll try the parts store for the stud tomorrow. The 3/8" -16 is...16mm long? Funny, I didn't read a single thing about this (anyone else having problem) in the entire sticky thread.

Originally Posted by BPOS

Here is a picture of the spacer. It makes up for the thickness of the stock exhaust manifold.

Geez, I'm glad you posted that pic, Al. I'd have never guessed the spacer was that big. The one I got was clearly shown in the assy manual, but not for there. How long is that spacer? A wild guess from the pic would say at least an inch.

[JimM]

The "16" is the thread count, standard SAE coarse thread. No metric here! Length will be what ever fits!