[mike brown]

well i got tired of asking all the ?'s, so i went ahead and hooked it up today.
2 problems:
1. tach did not work at all. checked the voltage from the MSD box tach
output and it's sending out about 2.5 volts. just hooked the wire i extended
from the tach output on the box directly to the tach wire that had been on the
neg. side of the coil. so i guess i may need the pn 8910 tach adapter.
2. it ran so well it would not cut off! website says i need a 1A-100V diode
hooked to the #4 wire coming off the voltage regulator to fix this engine run-on problem.
it was strange in that the idiot lights light up and everything still worked
(radio, etc.) when i cut the key off.
i took it for a test drive and it may have been me, but it did seem to run
just a little (very little) smoother. no real kick in the paints difference.
it did stall out on me right down the house on the return trip, but i think
this was due to just the temp. connections i had made. i unhooked it for now
as my speedo doesn't work and need the tach. the local radio shack also
doesn't stock this diode, so i'll go by an elec. supply store on monday. i
did see it has a 6000 rpm rev chip in it. i would of went with the 5000 if i
had my choice, but i'll live with it. thanks for everyones help and now i
have another ? if i replace the stock distributor with a new distributor,
which would you recommend?
if i go with the MSD 8361 (vacuum advance)will i still need the pn 8910 for the tach? is this
the best distributor for my street application?



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[cardude]

Mike, I asked most of the same performance questions to my local MSD distributor who also happens to be the best local machine shop. Their recommendations to me were as follows. The vacuum advance distributor will better for overall fuel economy and mechanical advance will be best for overall performance. The mech. advance unit is entirely more user adjustable. I'm running 10 degrees advance at the crank and have my stop bushing at 28. I have full advance setup for 3000 rpm which works well for my setup (street). I also have a balanced 454 and have my rev stop at 6000. The machine shop said set it at 7000, but with a big blk it just sounds to scary with it up that high!

[gheatly]

Your tach problem sounds interesting. I connected my factory tach directly to the MSD tach output with no problems whatsoever. I also did not have to install the diode. Where did you hook up your main power and ground wires? I hooked my positive (red) wire to the junction right behind the battery. I grounded it on the fender.

One interesting point => the factory tach is as slow as Christmas when the engine is accelerating. My tach runs about 500 - 750 RPMs LESS than the engine is actually turning. I hit my 6000 RPM limiter at about 5500 RPM per the tach. If you do any serious driving, I would highly recommend an aftermarket tach.

[mike brown]

my power leads were already hooked up. the red wire is hooked to the pos. side of the starter solenoid (MSD install instruction say OK) and the black is grounded to the dash by the steering column. i do still have a voltage regulator and a big local elec. supply parts house never heard of the diode # listed (1a-100v). i got this from MSD today:
> Sir,
> The 2.5 Volts from the tach output is correct on this unit. You will need
> the 8910 Tach Adapter if you are using the white wire as the trigger.
> However if you will go with the MSD 8361 Distributor in the future, you
> will need the 8920. You can also use the 8920 Tach Adapter with your
> current set up using the white wire as it works in both trigger setups.
> Thanks,
> MSD Tech
b!*ch is the 8910 is $25 and the 8920 is $45 (20 must stand for $20 extra), so with the dist. being around $185 + $45 for the tach adapter + a diode i can't find to cut to car off, not sure this is really worth it. i could go with a hei lot cheaper, but thought the msd set up would be better. plan on calling msd directly and get the low down on the diode and the tach adapter/another dist. - model 8360 shows not using the magnetic pickup connector (violet and green wire) which is what the 8920 is for. any suggestions?

[ph ls7]

Hello Mike well this is what i would suggest i run a mechanical advance msd distributor billet series. I have 10 degrees at ideal and by 2500 rpm everything comes in. I run 38 degrees at about 2500 rpm it works well for me the degrees are low for easyier start and the degrees are up for racing by 2500 and it comes with an assortment of springs to choose from so i suggest to go with the msd billet mechanical adv. distribitor. And by the way i run 10's with a stock LS7 4:11 gears and a powerglide with a 4500 stall and a 6AL box hope you make the right desition
take it easy and fast !!!!

[GregGold]

I have a gutted hei (module-less) and a 6AL and it works good. For the price, next to nothing, Id go with an hei.

Im in question of your red wire coming from the switch. When you turn the switch off, it should kill the motor.

[mike brown]

please see topic : msd 6al box/factory tach, tach adapters?
for the latest update.