[Jeff H]

I'm open to suggestions to solve the heat soak problems with a big block. It's a 454 with an L88 cam and rect ports but I don't know the compression. Once it's warmed up it takes 5 minutes before it will restart. The heat shield is there and it has new cables. I want to keep it original looking so the remote solenoid kit is a last option. What really works to get these starters to turn over when hot?

[Barry H]

I experienced the same problem with my 67, only it had the original 350. Did the same troubleshooting, new everything. The only way I could find to permanently fix the problem was to buy a high torque starter. Well worth the money, once you've been embarrassed in front of a crowd of people complimenting you on your nice ride. Good luck.

[Jeff H]

You mean like being at a gas station with the hood open to let it cool down enough to restart it. I told the guy we could push it out of the way and he said not to worry because everyone else getting gas was out of their cars looking at mine asking questions. I ordered the heavy duty solenoid and I'll give that a shot. Where did you get the high torque starter from?

[GregGold]

You may want to try backing off the ignition timing a bit and try your starter again. Ive notice that when this happens to mine, its usually the timing is too far up.

An alternative, I saw a few years ago was with a large pontiac motor. The solution was to turn over the motor then apply power to the coil. Crude but effective.

[JimM]

I've had similar problems with a number of cars. The solution to the last one turned out to be the battery! it would only pull 250 amps (should have been 800!) I've heard ceramic coating on the headers helps reduce temps. leaving the ignition unpowered until it's spinning will wortk, but it's kind of crude.

[ph ls7]

The best way to solve this is go with a gear reduction starter.

Who see's the starter anyway.

See ya

[GregGold]

MSD has a timing retarder. During startup, it retards the timing, then sets it back again once she's fired up. This should remedy the situation. Check them out at www.msdignition.com/.

[andyl]

Jeff H,
Don't forget to check the ignition wire running down the back of the block to the starter. If it gets old/brittle/frayed it will not carry enough current to the solenoid.
I went through the same hot start problems this last summer. Replacing the 12ga (I think)wire was the trick to get me going again.

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67 Chevellle SS Conv
69 RS Camaro

[Racing]

I know this might not be what you wanna hear,but just get a ministarter and be done with it bro.
I´ve bickered about situations like these for to long to even consider anything else these days.

------------------
DVC-98.Racing
470 cubes of fogger injected thunder in a 71 z.
racing@mbox303.swipnet.se

[fordkillr]

I had the same problem with my 68 396 camaro. Big Block chevys are notorious for killing starters. The first thing you should do is get a good set of 1 guage cables. The more strand count the better because the current doesnt run through the cable, it runs along the cable, the more strands the better. Second you want to shield the starter. Those tin shields are garbage, and the shields that go only on the solenoid are a joke, you know the ones i mean, the ones that look like a pop can. the blankets are the best, get the big one that wraps around ths starter twice. Or you can get yoursef a starter that can be rotated 180 degrees so the solenoid is next to the oil pan insted of next to your exhaust manifold or header, coated headers dont only look wicked cool but they do lower underhood temperatures.

[This message has been edited by fordkillr (edited 01-07-2002).]

[67CamaroRS/SS]

Hey Greg, I was reading about the MSD Timing Retard and the directions say it only works for a MSD distributor or a crank trigger. Do you have one of these or were you able to get yours hooked up on something different?

[68z28sd]

the seperate switch for ignition works excellent, thats what i have in my drag car. plus it is a saftey device.

[Steptoe]

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=108801

the seperate switch for ignition works excellent, thats what i have in my drag car. plus it is a saftey device.

A relay in the circult, mounted low on the firewall above the started, with direct power feed saves messing with extra switches...
A common practice in NZ on older cars with orginal wiring...
As the wires get old, they canbe come corroded inside.
The current flows down the surface of the wires, not thru the center, therefore if there is surface corrossion/tarnish, they have a higher resistance.

[octanefueled]

Might want to check this trick piece out. It looks like it could be pretty easily concealed...

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku

[68z28sd]

that looks like it would work great, my john deer mower did not start when hot, they gave me a recall kit very simular to that. it solved all hot start issues, but i still like the saftey feture of a switch.