[keypilot]

ok i have just about all the lower stuff done, but the lines, master, and prop valve (and old prop valve) have me lost. this is the kit i have
http://www.mattsclassicbowties.com/c...n-us/d213.html
i am using the front hard line kit as well. do i need the old valve? or just use the new one. the rear will stay drums. the line to the rears is frozen in the metering block too. (fun stuff) i have been looking for a pic but cant find the right one.

trying to get this done tomorrow, so any help would be great.

[novaderrik]

if they gave you a prop valve, then use that one.
to get the line to break free, keep the prop valve bolted to the frame and put the proper flare wrench on it. if you have one, use a propane torch to get the prop valve around the fitting nice and hot. then, while applying pressure on the wrench, tap it with a hammer- think if it as like using an impact wrench to break loose rusted lug nuts. it WILL come loose eventually.
when it does come loose from the prop valve, it will probably still be rusted to the line. you need to shoot some good penetrating oil when it's still hot so it wicks in between the pipe and fitting (i've grown to like the liquid wrench foamy stuff). then, it's just a matter of jerking the wrench rapidly loose then tight until it starts to spin on the pipe. this step may take a while, but it will work eventually if the line isn't rusted to the point of almost disintegrating. once it spins freely, shoot it with more penetrating oil and work it until it spins easily by hand.

[keypilot]

thanks i have been heating it w/ map gas and soaking it w/ PB blaster and using a line wrench. maybe i will have better luck today.
i would like to see a pic of a master cyl/prop valve for power disk/drum set up so i can see how the lines are run.

i am going out to work on it now but will be checking back to see if anyone can help.

thanks guys

[keypilot]

ok all the hard parts are in. i had to use an adapter to make the stock rear line work. all that is left is fluid. i hope i did this right. i am going to try and get my hands on a pressure bleeder.

fwiw, i had to cut the head off of the clevis pin on the pedal. it would not come out any other way (without tearing the whole pedal assembly out).