[Jerry Hobgood]

Was told to remove sratches with 400 girt and DA sander.
Then start w/ dark brown polish/cleaner.
Finally use High Wax, lighter color.

Not real happy with what I see. Maybe too much 400 sanding, as sent over most of piece. I recall someone saying in the past you first have to remove "clear coat' finish before restoring alum. Is that correct? Suggestions please w/o having to ship off for restor. Thanks.

[Everett#2390]

Most external alum is clear anodized to protect from the elements. It is the coating you're removing before you get to the alum to polish. Once the anodizing is gone, now more attention will be needed on alum upkeep.

Four hundred grit is harsh, maybe 1500 and up wet sanding. Then polish. JMT's

[KevinW]

Jerry, you have to be sure of what the metal is! The window trim is stainless steel, the lower trim and wheelwell molding is anodized aluminum. The stainless can be polished, just do some searching, lots of info! The aluminum cannot be polished until you remove the anodized surface with acid, very tough process!

[Pro-Street69Camaro468]

If this is the window chanel under the drip rail and it is a 69 this metal is stainless.It can be polished depending how deep the scratches are is where you start and with what grit sandpaper you use.400 is good for a light scratch some may need 220 and so on.If you start with 220 you need to go in steps on sandpaper up to 2000 and then go to the buffing I used black rouge then the white rouge on two diferent sides of the 6 inch buffer I have.Then from there go to and hand type polish like Flitz is what I prefer.Hope this helps....This is also done on the front and back window trim...