[mch6970ss]

I have 2 sets of Chevy smallblock rods. One set is from a 70 350 and has an X on them. The other is from a 69 350 and has what looks like an O on them. They are both pressed pins. Are these both "Pink" rods?
Thanks

[tdb11]

My understanding is that X rods are from 'trucks'

O Rods are usually pink

[Everett#2390]

Pink rods are what they are - have pink color on them denoting usage for either a Z/28 or LT1 engine.

[zdld17]

Originally Posted by Everett#2390

Pink rods are what they are - have pink color on them denoting usage for either a Z/28 or LT1 engine.

And already sized on the little end to accept a floating pin?

[BillK]

Originally Posted by zdld17

And already sized on the little end to accept a floating pin?

No, they were used in press fit applications too.

[mch6970ss]

If these rods had pink on them it is long gone. I've heard so much controversy over these things I was hoping to get a definitive answer. I do believe the 70 rods with the X on them are pink rods. I'm not sure about the 69s with the O. They originally came out of a 69 Kingswood Wagon with a 300 hp 350. They are identical in apearance to the 70 rods with the X. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks

[rszmjt]

Originally Posted by 350 LT-1

If these rods had pink on them it is long gone. I've heard so much controversy over these things I was hoping to get a definitive answer. I do believe the 70 rods with the X on them are pink rods. I'm not sure about the 69s with the O. They originally came out of a 69 Kingswood Wagon with a 300 hp 350. They are identical in apearance to the 70 rods with the X. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks

Original late version 1968 and 1969 Pink Rods #3973386 are shotpeened select forgings that are Full Floating on the wristpin and the small ends are lead babbited, they have a "O" on the cap. The small ends have no oiling hole. They are easily indentified by the pink paint that was on the beams, after years of use it also appears like dull white? The caps of original 69/70/71/72 pink rods are a different colour as the rod is shotpeened and the cap is not. This is easily seen on known original pink rods. By the way 1970 and up rods are pressed pin.
"O" rods that came in trucks and passenger car engines have the same "O" designator but are not shotpeened and have pressed pins and no pink paint.
The Original "O" pink rods were discontinued from GM circa 1973/74 and the part number was superceded to the 72/73/74 version Z28 rod, which has a "B" on the cap and is a pressed pin rod, they also appear with the Pink paint. I have taken apart many Z28 302/350 and Corvette LT1 & L82 Engines over the last 40 years and this was allways found.
I personaly believe that "X" rods did not appear from GM until around late 74, early 1975, and this comes from working at a performance machine shop for 10 years in the 70,s, ( 1972-1982) and a Corvette Shop for 20 years ( 1985-2005) and the first time I saw "X" rods was around the mid 70,s in truck and passenger car engines. There is also a version of a pink "X" rod and it was installed in L82 Corvette engines from 75-79 and it also had the pink paint as well as brown ( or tan ) and orange from time to time.
A performance rod was offered out of the GM power book in the 70, and 80,s and these rods had the pink designator paint, I believe GM did that to identify the shotpeend surfaces. These are usually "X" rods.
I constantly see so called pink rods on ebay and just laugh when they have the applied pink paint and "X" on the caps. I can email some pictures of original 69 Pink Rods as well as 72 version Pink rods if any one is interested.
Hope this helps.

[mch6970ss]

From the information you have given me the "X" rods I have taken right out of a 70 LT-1 Z-28 are not "PINK" rods. I am confused because I always thought this to be true. If I take my 70 "X" rods and my 69 "O" rods and have them shot peened would that bring them up to "PINK" quality? Since I already have these rods in my possession I would like to make the most of them before use. I would also put the ARP bolts in them.
Thanks

[rszmjt]

Originally Posted by 350 LT-1

From the information you have given me the "X" rods I have taken right out of a 70 LT-1 Z-28 are not "PINK" rods. I am confused because I always thought this to be true. If I take my 70 "X" rods and my 69 "O" rods and have them shot peened would that bring them up to "PINK" quality? Since I already have these rods in my possession I would like to make the most of them before use. I would also put the ARP bolts in them.
Thanks

Mike, 70 LT1 engines DEFINATLY do not use "X" rods. I have a 6,000 mile 1970 Z28 LT1 that has been discussed heavily a few years back on the Yenko site ( pictures are there also) and it has "O" pink rods. The engine was out of a rolled over Z28 that was scrapped 38 years ago. The fellow I got it from seperated the pan from the block becuase it got dented when the car crashed. The pan was repaired and is just bolted back on the engine assembly. The rest of the engine has never been apart. This is the reason I know it has "O" Pink rods.
Anyway someone must have been in your LT1 before if it has "X" rods. IMO. It is a well known fact that a lot of unscrupulous people robbed desirable high performance parts out of High Perf engines either intentionaly or by ignorance if the engine was rebuilt.
As I stated the original "O" pink rods where select forgings. GM looked over all the rods for core shift, casting slag etc., then I have heard they magnaflux particle inspected and shotpeened the rod and also machined it and lead babbitted the small end for the full floating wristpin ( in 69 engines only ) It was then finished machined and given the "pink" colour on the beam of the rod.
I would use the "O" rods you have and have them magnafluxed particle inspected for any cracks etc, then have them shotpeened and resized with the ARP bolts. Some guys will grind the casting flash off the beams, but if you are concerned about originality then leave them stock. A word of caution, whoever shotpeens them must protect the bores and the machined sides of the rods as the shotpeening will rough these areas up excessively. There is also a Almen Specification for the rod surfaces to achieve the correct surface finish. It is checked with a Almen Strip to measure Arch height (the amount of upward deflection of an Almen strip after it has been submitted to a shot peen blast) Check with your local machine shops regarding shotpeening etc.
Hope this helps. Mike.

[grumpyvette]

while I really appreciate the time, effort and knowledge posted above ,and the research it took. if your rebuilding a high performance sbc in todays world its a bit useless, if your main goal is only a strong yet cost effective rotating assembly, simply because theres forged 4340 steel rods with 7/16" ARP cap screw rods available at very competative pricing, that are far stronger than the chevy "pink" rods
example

http://www.adperformance.com/index.p...index&cPath=67

[ldrisner]

Originally Posted by grumpyvette

while I really appreciate the time, effort and knowledge posted above ,and the research it took. if your rebuilding a high performance sbc in todays world its a bit useless, if your main goal is only a strong yet cost effective rotating assembly, simply because theres forged 4340 steel rods with 7/16" ARP cap screw rods available at very competative pricing, that are far stronger than the chevy "pink" rods
example

http://www.adperformance.com/index.p...index&cPath=67

Took the word out of my mouth!

Then again I am not a purist. I have radials on my Camaro!

[tilley88]

I agree with the above.....pink rods are for the numbers matching, absolutely gotta be the right part everywhere purists. Nothing wrong with that. If I had an all numbers matching car from that era I would expect the internals of the engine to match what Detroit put in it. But in todays world everybody and their brother makes a rod twice as strong as the old pink rod, even some of the chinese made/american machined rods come to mind. And those so called pink rods selling for hundreds of dollars on ebay really chap my hide....

[rszmjt]

Originally Posted by grumpyvette

while I really appreciate the time, effort and knowledge posted above ,and the research it took. if your rebuilding a high performance sbc in todays world its a bit useless, if your main goal is only a strong yet cost effective rotating assembly, simply because theres forged 4340 steel rods with 7/16" ARP cap screw rods available at very competative pricing, that are far stronger than the chevy "pink" rods
example

http://www.adperformance.com/index.p...index&cPath=67

Originally Posted by tilley88

I agree with the above.....pink rods are for the numbers matching, absolutely gotta be the right part everywhere purists. Nothing wrong with that. If I had an all numbers matching car from that era I would expect the internals of the engine to match what Detroit put in it. But in todays world everybody and their brother makes a rod twice as strong as the old pink rod, even some of the chinese made/american machined rods come to mind. And those so called pink rods selling for hundreds of dollars on ebay really chap my hide....

Yes I agree totaly, The material/machineing and technology in todays aftermarket connecting rods are lite years ahead of the original GM rods.
It is amazing though how many ebay vendors splash a little pink paint on X rods or plain "O" rods and try to pass them off as Original "PINK" Z28 rods. Hopefully any body considering buying "pink O" rods does some research so as not to get burned.

[mch6970ss]

Thanks guys. Boy do I feel informed. I'm not trying to build a 1/4 mile beast here. I just want to have something nice. Does anyone have any idea what they charge to shot peen and magnaflux stock SB rods?

[BillK]

Originally Posted by 350 LT-1

Thanks guys. Boy do I feel informed. I'm not trying to build a 1/4 mile beast here. I just want to have something nice. Does anyone have any idea what they charge to shot peen and magnaflux stock SB rods?

Probably about 1/2 of what you can buy a good set of rods for. I would bet at least $125. We get $60 to magnaflux them, and there are not many places that can shot peen them. I only know of one automotive machine shop that has an actual shot peen machine. I have a steel shot blaster that we use for cleaning, but that is NOT the same as shot peening. By the time you buy a set of ARP bolts and have the big ends resized ........

Buy a set of the GM powdered metal rods, I think they are around $220. Or Scat & Eagle both have a real nice rod in the $260 range.