[Rattlehead]

Hopefully, some of you guys that have already been there can help me out. I've got my car ready for sheetmetal work around the rear wheelwells after tubbing.
The car was a Texas car, but a coast car. Solid, but rusted out around the top of the wheel openings. The rest of the quarters are in good shape. (except where the p/o cut chevy emblems into the marker light openings...he was kinda 'special'...did 'em freehand)
I have left and right side 80% quarters, but with no original material to work with, would I need two sets of 80%ers to get enough raw material? I would like for them to look as much like a factory opening as possible.
I've seen the Harwood fiberglass openings, but I would think they wouldn't last long on the street:
http://www.eharwood.com/catalog/prod...p?productID=64
If someone makes these in steel, I think they would be perfect.
I am not doing the work, but I have about 4 weeks before it goes back to the shop, and I would like to take all needed parts with me.
Any input from the guys that have "been there, done that?"
Thanks.

[67speedfreak]

What year are we talking about. Are you stretching the opening are just repairing the rust.

I would not go with the fiberglass openings, they will eventaly crack . I would do it in steel.

[Rattlehead]

69', needing to stretch the opening as well, 31" tire. I want it done in steel, the Harwood piece would be perfect if it were metal.

[67speedfreak]

To do a 69 you just need to add a piece at the top after stretching the opening. You could use patch panel for this.

[Rattlehead]

I guess what I'm asking is, will just the one set of quarters I have work? Or do I need two of each quarter to get the needed patch panel, or just make a patch out of some similar guage metal?

[67speedfreak]

You just need one set. And maybe a patch panel for the top section.

[Rattlehead]

Ok, Thanks!
BTW, nice video. That full tube 67' is gonna be a monster!

[prostreet69camaro]

When I stretched my quarters, I left 5" of original quarters in the middle. Then added patch panels to the 5". This was for a 33" tire. You could do the same thing with your 80% panels and the forward patch panel they sell. Or if you have a good metal guy he can add the metal to the 80% quarter. You will then have to modify the ends by the door jamb and back panel. Sorry I dont have pictures. I did mine 15 years ago and they still look good.

[Rattlehead]

Thanks for your insight as well, Mike, I found the smaller patch panels you spoke of at Year One. The guy that I'm having do the work agrees with Brian, that all he would need are the skins that I already have, but I think when he sees how bad the wheelwells are, I would think he's gonna want some extra tin. Maybe not, he is what I would consider a 'craftsman' at his trade.
And Mike, pictures of your car, and Dave C's are what clinched the decision to actually make it Pro Street...VERY NICE.

[Pro-Street69Camaro468]

Heres a couple pics of what I did....




I made the center piece my tires are 31"

[Rattlehead]

Thanks Dave. It looks like there is more than one way to do this correctly. I appreciate all the input.

[67speedfreak]

Dave,

That looks real good that is basicly how I was trying to explain it. Move the front section forward and the rear section back and you could use a patch panel to close the middle section or you could fab it.

[Rattlehead]

If I were closer to you Brian, you would have my business, you do some nice work. I wish I had the tools and know-how to do more than what I can, but , at least I have a good shop in my area. Once again, THANKS GUYS!!

[67speedfreak]

Thanks for the compliment Brett.

No problem and good luck with your project.

[DonCasanova]

Brett - On page 2 of Pro Street, under "Video of our 69 big block" there is some footage of the stretched stock fender lips that fit 31" mickeys. The stock inner fender lips already fit the tire. The outer lips were pie-sliced starting from about halfway up the wheel opening down to the bottom. They're welded back together with the inner lips front and rear. This adds an inch front and rear, is not noticable, and is less work than sectioning (for up to a 31" tire).
Hope this helps.........................DC