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  #1  
Old Apr 7th, 09, 06:18 PM
Kokamo Kokamo is offline
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Default Blue masking tape vrs. green???

Hey guys, I heard somewhere that there is a diffeence between blue and green masking tape, but I haven't a clue as to which one was which.

I know I heard something about one sticking harder than the other.....that's what I need to know. I will be using fine line tape on the color separation and masking the fine line with some light stick tape.....I just need to know which one it is.

Thanks for any help,

~Joe
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  #2  
Old Apr 7th, 09, 06:29 PM
Vette468 Vette468 is offline
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sIcKyIcKyMiCkY
 
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Default Re: Blue masking tape vrs. green???

You should try to use some good 3m tape nothing thats been sitting for too long..you should buy a few "new" rolls, the fine line is good stuff ...3m is the deal...
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  #3  
Old Apr 7th, 09, 06:44 PM
Kokamo Kokamo is offline
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Default Re: Blue masking tape vrs. green???

Yes, I know to buy new or fresh tape.

Thanks
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  #4  
Old Apr 7th, 09, 07:07 PM
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Thumbs up Re: Blue masking tape vrs. green???

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kokamo View Post
Hey guys, I heard somewhere that there is a diffeence between blue and green masking tape, but I haven't a clue as to which one was which.

I know I heard something about one sticking harder than the other.....that's what I need to know. I will be using fine line tape on the color separation and masking the fine line with some light stick tape.....I just need to know which one it is...

~Joe
The 'Green' is commonly refered to as Lacquer Tape at paint shops.
It has a better adhesive formula that will stand up to the more aggressive solvents used in lacquer products.
These adhesives are also more aggressive in their contact strength - so they tend to stick better than the blue types.
This tape is usually used in auto-body work for it's superior adhesion and ability to resist the harsher solvents and chemicals in automotive paints.

The 'Blue' "Painters Tape" is primarily for water-based and mild solvent paints.
It works fine with most of the enamels out now, like Rustoleum and POR-15 type paints.
I shy away from using it in areas where there is a chance for paint bleed-under or color separations - I like to stick with the 'green-stuff' for those jobs.


When you buy your tape at Hardware or paint stores, look on the 3M bins it should be in for application information and adhesive rating - this will give you a clue which one will work best for your needs.
Be aware that the 'Blue' tape also comes in two (2) flavors - a cheap(er) version for the home DYIers and a 'better' version for actual painters. The price difference between the two will be marginal, but the 'painters' version is a much better product


Hope this helps...
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  #5  
Old Apr 7th, 09, 07:11 PM
Kokamo Kokamo is offline
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Default Re: Blue masking tape vrs. green???

John, wow man, thanks for the reply. So let me get this right.....green, sticks harder...blue sticks less.

What I am doing....I am making a two tone scheme. There will be fine line 3M tape for the color line. The paint will be BC/CC, so I want something that won't pull up the paint when I'm done.

Thanks,

Joe
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  #6  
Old Apr 7th, 09, 07:36 PM
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Default Re: Blue masking tape vrs. green???

I would only buy tape for an important automotive paint job from my local auto paint store. The guys at the store here are very willing to help an novice like myself and haven't recomended anything that hasn't worked. The last tape I bought from them was a Norton product.

Jeff
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  #7  
Old Apr 7th, 09, 07:59 PM
Kokamo Kokamo is offline
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Default Re: Blue masking tape vrs. green???

Jeff, thanks man. yeah, I will be buying all of my stuff from the automotive paint shop so everything bought will be used strictly for an automotive paint job.

~Joe
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  #8  
Old Apr 7th, 09, 11:05 PM
RamAirDave RamAirDave is offline
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Default Re: Blue masking tape vrs. green???

We use 3Ms Highland line of tape, vanilla in color. Good tape.
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  #9  
Old Apr 8th, 09, 04:57 AM
Arai Arai is offline
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Default Re: Blue masking tape vrs. green???

I second the green stuff.......when I used to do paint & body that was all the shop used. Don't forget there are 2 different kinds of paper also......1 has a wax based back to stop the bleeding of clears.
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Old Apr 8th, 09, 05:25 AM
Mr. Super Sport Mr. Super Sport is offline
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Default Re: Blue masking tape vrs. green???

Wow never knew there was so many differences in tapes. Very good info.
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  #11  
Old Apr 8th, 09, 02:26 PM
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Talking Re: Blue masking tape vrs. green???

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kokamo View Post
John, wow man, thanks for the reply. So let me get this right.....green, sticks harder...blue sticks less.

What I am doing....I am making a two tone scheme. There will be fine line 3M tape for the color line. The paint will be BC/CC, so I want something that won't pull up the paint when I'm done.

Thanks,

Joe

welllllll... if you way over simplify things - then yes, sort of

If you're talking about the old standby 'Home Depot' type "Blue" (class 3) house painters tape - then yes, the blue would 'stick' less than the automotive "Green" (class 2)tape
If you are talking about one of the 'High-Temp' type technical automotive 'Blue' (class 1) tapes (like 3M's 4737T or S series)then the answer would be definately be NO!
These 'Blue' colored tapes are some of the best available.
But - the differences are very easy to see
The 4737 series of technical tapes use a Vinyl backing material (as many HP/technical tapes do) vs. the paper (crepe) backing material on the Home Depot type 'Blue' tapes.
Actually, there are several styles of automotive tapes that also have the vinyl backing vs. crepe. Their colors range from Tan(ish) to green(ish) to blue(ish) and even white.

As far as "stick" - there is a lot of differences across tape lines.
Most of the common tapes use a very similar rubber based adhesive system.
The type of backing, the amount of coating and to some extent some slightly different formulas of the adhesive give it it's "stickiness" ...
The type of backing also dictates how resistant it is to light effecting the adhesive over time and causing the tape to be hard to remove - the more the backing restricts the amount of UV energy getting to the adhesive to dry it out (evapoate the needed remaining solvents that keep it plyable) the longer you can leave it on a surface and still remove it easily.
If the adhesive dries out to much the adhesion strength will exceed the backing amterials strength - or - the tape will tear while you try to remove it instead of the adhesive just giving up it's bond to the surface...
All tapes have an initial adhesion rating given in ounces(oz)-of-pull against a given test material - clean steel or SS-steel being a common substrate they are tested on.
Normally you would want a tape in the mid30~upper 40's for best results in an automotive paint application.

I commonly use 3M's #218(green), 226(blue) or #4737 tapes in 18/24/36mm widths. (18 = 1/2"/24= 1"/36 = 1.5")
As stated above - talk to you local paint supplier and get his recommendations and see what he stocks.
You don't go through that much tape for a whole job, so the costs are not very prohibitive.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Arai View Post
I second the green stuff.......when I used to do paint & body that was all the shop used. Don't forget there are 2 different kinds of paper also......1 has a wax based back to stop the bleeding of clears.
Yup, there are actually a lot more type, but we only need to worry about a couple for automotive use.
3m" #06736 "ScotchBlock" papers are an excellent choice. They are resin coated to resist the newer Urathane solvents and also will hold up to most 'wet-sanding' activities pretty well - like when sanding for adhesion of striping over the base-coat...
Again, cost isn't a real biggie as you don't use but a roll or so.

And - no, I didn't sleep at a Holiday Inn last night - but, yes, I am an engineer
__________________
1968 Convertible
Some trucks
Other V8 things - some of which float
Other V6 things - none of which float
Oh yeah, and 1 "Straight-Six" ...

If a man says something in the garage - and his wife can't hear him - is he still wrong !!!
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  #12  
Old Apr 8th, 09, 04:10 PM
Zulu28 Zulu28 is offline
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Default Re: Blue masking tape vrs. green???

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vintage 68 View Post
welllllll... if you way over simplify things - then yes, sort of

If you're talking about the old standby 'Home Depot' type "Blue" (class 3) house painters tape - then yes, the blue would 'stick' less than the automotive "Green" (class 2)tape
If you are talking about one of the 'High-Temp' type technical automotive 'Blue' (class 1) tapes (like 3M's 4737T or S series)then the answer would be definately be NO!
These 'Blue' colored tapes are some of the best available.
But - the differences are very easy to see
The 4737 series of technical tapes use a Vinyl backing material (as many HP/technical tapes do) vs. the paper (crepe) backing material on the Home Depot type 'Blue' tapes.
Actually, there are several styles of automotive tapes that also have the vinyl backing vs. crepe. Their colors range from Tan(ish) to green(ish) to blue(ish) and even white.

As far as "stick" - there is a lot of differences across tape lines.
Most of the common tapes use a very similar rubber based adhesive system.
The type of backing, the amount of coating and to some extent some slightly different formulas of the adhesive give it it's "stickiness" ...
The type of backing also dictates how resistant it is to light effecting the adhesive over time and causing the tape to be hard to remove - the more the backing restricts the amount of UV energy getting to the adhesive to dry it out (evapoate the needed remaining solvents that keep it plyable) the longer you can leave it on a surface and still remove it easily.
If the adhesive dries out to much the adhesion strength will exceed the backing amterials strength - or - the tape will tear while you try to remove it instead of the adhesive just giving up it's bond to the surface...
All tapes have an initial adhesion rating given in ounces(oz)-of-pull against a given test material - clean steel or SS-steel being a common substrate they are tested on.
Normally you would want a tape in the mid30~upper 40's for best results in an automotive paint application.

I commonly use 3M's #218(green), 226(blue) or #4737 tapes in 18/24/36mm widths. (18 = 1/2"/24= 1"/36 = 1.5")
As stated above - talk to you local paint supplier and get his recommendations and see what he stocks.
You don't go through that much tape for a whole job, so the costs are not very prohibitive.



Yup, there are actually a lot more type, but we only need to worry about a couple for automotive use.
3m" #06736 "ScotchBlock" papers are an excellent choice. They are resin coated to resist the newer Urathane solvents and also will hold up to most 'wet-sanding' activities pretty well - like when sanding for adhesion of striping over the base-coat...
Again, cost isn't a real biggie as you don't use but a roll or so.

And - no, I didn't sleep at a Holiday Inn last night - but, yes, I am an engineer

I now dub you "The Tape Master - Master of all things sticky on one side!". Congratulations. You are now the center of the tape universe.
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  #13  
Old Apr 8th, 09, 04:11 PM
Zulu28 Zulu28 is offline
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Default Re: Blue masking tape vrs. green???

Isn't it a good idea to use the vinyl line tape on the edges to procude a nice crisp line?
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  #14  
Old Apr 8th, 09, 05:37 PM
Kokamo Kokamo is offline
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Default Re: Blue masking tape vrs. green???

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zulu28 View Post
Isn't it a good idea to use the vinyl line tape on the edges to procude a nice crisp line?
see post number 5
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  #15  
Old Apr 8th, 09, 05:58 PM
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Vintage 68 Vintage 68 is offline
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Thumbs up Re: Blue masking tape vrs. green???

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kokamo View Post
see post number 5

If you are referring to the 'don't want to pull up any paint' in that post -
Then the answer would be it really should effect the paint surface at all.
I've never pulled paint up after masking for strippes or anything else during multi-tone paint.
As long as you've preped the surface correctly, allowed the necessary 're-coat' time and use a good quality tape you should never have an issue.

And yes, the vinyl tape tends to give a much cleaner line definition - but the difference is pretty hard to see after proper feathering and clear-coat anyway...
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1968 Convertible
Some trucks
Other V8 things - some of which float
Other V6 things - none of which float
Oh yeah, and 1 "Straight-Six" ...

If a man says something in the garage - and his wife can't hear him - is he still wrong !!!
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