[Johnny Fry]

I have been looking at new heads for some time. I have a 350 in my 67. Which is better for your money? Aluminum or Iron. Can someone give me pros and cons on each? I have heard really good things about the Vortech, S/R Torker and Sportsman II Heads. They appear awesome for their cost. I don't really want to spend over 1,000 dollars and I want the heads assembled. Can anyone who's used these heads give me some info. Also, I am not looking for like full-fledge race heads, just strong streetable power. Any suggestions? Thanks

[BORN69]

John,

Here's a little general info.. The aluminum heads allow for a higher compression ratio than iron heads without causing detonation. They will also reduce weight from the front end of the car.

[PAT68]

I run the Edelbrock straight angle aluminum heads in my 67. Great power, great performance.

PAT68

[MarkM]

If you're doing a complete rebuild and are going to need a cam, intake, heads, timing chain and head bolts, you can't beat the holley system max system. The only cheaper way I can see is going with vortecs, but those heads don't compare the alluminum holleys with 20 degree valve angles.

[gheatly]

Bang for the buck = DART Iron Eagles. These heads have a modern combustion chamber design and are supposed to really flow. They are cheap (about $500 per pair assembles, can't remember).

Also, Vortec heads are lightweight castings so they do not have the strength of older iron heads. They will crack under hard use. Come back in a year after everyone has put a few hard miles on them and see what everyone is saying then.

[RockyMtnRacer]

My only experience with aftermarket heads are the Edelbrock Performer RPMs. I just put a set on a new motor and they're great. By the time I priced out updating and porting my old heads it was a no-brainer to step up to new heads. I picked aluminum because they save weight, are more forgiving for higher compression and detonation, dissipate heat better and look cool. I ended up with Edlebrocks because they are easily as good as the rest very competitive and I got some good recommendations on them from "satisfied customers" as well as several of the tech line resources at various parts suppliers.

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Scott
'69 400SB, Richmond 5-speed
'99 HD Road King Classic

[MarkM]

gheatly, you're a little off on price. Jegs sells them for around $450 a piece assembled, on average depending on cumbustion chamber and intake runner voulume. If you can find them for $500 complete per pair I'll take several sets.

[Joseph]

$1,000 should get you a good set of aluminum heads like Trick Flows. If you spend just a bit more,$100 to $300, you can get some really nice heads Like AFR's, Brodix and Darts. Just don't get wild with port volume if it will be a street motor.

Joseph

[sr71bb]

I have a pair of RPM Performer Aluminum heads on my 396 and the acually weight of these heads is 40 lbs. each COMPLETE (yes, I actually weighed them!!). The weight on the stock cast iron heads was 70 lbs. each. I therefore shaved a total of 60 lbs. by switching to the aluminum heads. I will mention that head gasket sealing is more crtiical when using aluminum heads. I would reccomend using FELPRO head gaskets. They cost around $100.00 but they are worth it.
Since aluminum dissipates heat better than cast iron you can get away with about .5 a point compression higher if you use aluminum. Also your engine will run cooler with the aluminum heads (my engine temperature NEVER exceeds 190 degrees even in the 105 degree Texas heat).

Compared to my ported cast iron heads, the EDELBROCK heads do produce more power on my car but not until around 4000 rpm. By the way, the compression figures on the edelbrock heads are incorrect. They claim 9.6 to 1 but they are actually closer to 9.2 to 1. I had mine milled at .035 and they cc'ed at 106.5 cc's.

I know that this sounds like I am a big proponent of aluminum heads but quite frankly a nice set of iron heads will work fine for you if cost is a consideration. I will pay ANYTHING for more horsepower so my buying criteria is different than most.

By the way, I have found building a high performance BIG BLOCK costs at least 2-3 times as much as building up a small block. Dollar for dollar, the small blocks give you more bang for your buck but if cost is not a consideration than BIG BLOCKS are the ticket.

UPDATE:

There is an article in March issue of POPULAR HOT RODDING that takes a stock ZZ4 350 crate motor and puts both GM's VORTEC cast iron heads and GM's FASTBURN aluminum heads on the motor in separate DYNO tests. The VORTEC heads made 20HP over the stock ZZ4 aluminum heads. The FASTBURN heads are good for around 20 more than the VORTECS although in the test they got more HP than this but they were also using the GM hot cam with the FASTBURN combo. At roughly $400.00 complete, the VORTECS appear to be a tremendous bargain!!! If cost were not a consideration though I would opt fastburn heads.



[This message has been edited by sr71bb (edited 01-23-2000).]

[68'camaroguy]

Is there any truth to this rumor I heard
about those Vortec heads being prone to cracking in performance use? If any body has
heard anything, please let me know.

[DOUG G]

with all this talk i forgot the question...lol...well heres my thoughts,get the dart II's in steel:why ? at $800 they're complete and 64cc will bump compression,and no "special" head gaskets...also will look stock if the compitition wants a peek ...just my thoughts

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<A HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/dagwould1/
68" TARGET=_blank>http://hometown.aol.com/dagwould1/
68</A> Camaro

[Robby Miller]

I would go to www.mortec.com ,there you can find all of these aluminum heads and high performance goodies new or slightly used, I got a set of chevy bowtie heads for my 69 rs/ss 350 complete with valves studs, guideplates, the works, for $600. I recommend these heads highly, ported and polished they are bad to the bone and not that expensive.