[herbyjr]

This is the bolt hole that is supposed to hold the rear, underside of the driver's front fender. When the bolt broke, I drilled it and tried to use a cheap bolt extractor to take out the bolt. The extractor broke and wouldn't come out of the hole. It wouldn't drill again and everything went downhill from there. I may have to end up cutting the whole area out and welding in a new one. Any ideas would be appreciated.

H.

[DHH]

It looks like you can take a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel and cut a slot in the extractor as deep as you can go. Then find the tightest fitting screw driver you can to fit the slot. Clamp a vice grips onto the screwdriver and you should be able to break it loose.

[Eric Kammerer]

Send lots and lots of penetrating, creeping lube like PB Blaster, Kroil, or something like that into the cowl vent opening (easier with kickpanel out). The backside of that bolt gets all the moisture and crap that goes down the cowl vent grille. May have to go in with a shop vac and clean out around the top side of the bolt.

[herbyjr]

Originally Posted by DHH

It looks like you can take a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel and cut a slot in the extractor as deep as you can go. Then find the tightest fitting screw driver you can to fit the slot. Clamp a vice grips onto the screwdriver and you should be able to break it loose.

Excellent suggestion. I'll got give it a try and get back with you shortly! Since the car is upside down on a rotiserrie, I've been squirting a little oil on it periodically and letting it soak for about a week now. This should help it break free...if anything will.

H.

[herbyjr]

Originally Posted by Eric Kammerer

Send lots and lots of penetrating, creeping lube like PB Blaster, Kroil, or something like that into the cowl vent opening (easier with kickpanel out). The backside of that bolt gets all the moisture and crap that goes down the cowl vent grille. May have to go in with a shop vac and clean out around the top side of the bolt.

I've already cleaned out the cowl. This is the side where I replaced the tulip, so it is very clean on the backside...other than some rust.

H.

[yellow69RS]

In the process of replacing my rockers I was able to get to the top of that bolt. I heated it up and put a vise grip on it and then removed it from the top. If you have to replace rocker you can wait til then.

Jeff

[herbyjr]

Thanks Jeff, but no rocker replacement.

I used the dremel to notch it, but I wasn't able to get it to turn with a screw driver. By now, the bolt is pretty much convcaved, so I'm going to try and drill it again. It is slow, but I bought a package of 10 titanium nitrade coated bits today so at least I can keep a fresh sharp bit on it.

H.

[yellow69RS]

The extractor is hardened steel, it might be possible to break it out. I know this works with taps but they are not solid like extractors are.

Jeff

[DOUG G]

Well... you have a welder right ?
Nothing else is working right ?
Find a nut that is about the same size outer diameter as the bolt,place it flat as possible and plug weld it to the bolt (may want a little extra heat so turn the welder up a fuzz or two). Do your best to stay inside the nut and on the bolt.
The nut will glow orange it you do it right, so let it cool a little before you try to turn it (maybe 5 minutes) and if the nut pops off, try it again.
The heat from the weld shock heats the broken stud/bolt and at least gives you a chance.

Use the above as a last chance before you go to cutting the panel.

[Steptoe]

Use the above as a last chance before you go to cutting the panel.

Forget eze outs...just weld as Doug says above , heat turned right up, feed turned right down heaps of penitration.

[Steiner]

If you're just trying to get the extractor out right now, also remember to turn the extractor clockwise like you are tyring to tighten the bolt. I forget sometimes.

[Garfields Maro]

Originally Posted by DOUG G

Well... you have a welder right ?
Nothing else is working right ?
Find a nut that is about the same size outer diameter as the bolt,place it flat as possible and plug weld it to the bolt (may want a little extra heat so turn the welder up a fuzz or two). Do your best to stay inside the nut and on the bolt.
The nut will glow orange it you do it right, so let it cool a little before you try to turn it (maybe 5 minutes) and if the nut pops off, try it again.
The heat from the weld shock heats the broken stud/bolt and at least gives you a chance.

Use the above as a last chance before you go to cutting the panel.

X3...and as Steps mentioned and you've learned by now...throw the #*%@*^"EZ" outs away !! Honestly, I can't think of anything they're good for, except making the job even more difficult.

One thing I'd suggest tho...weld a washer on first. It's much easier to get in there for a good weld...then weld a nut to the washer. If as you say, it's concaved now, could do some hammer work on the washer to help it fit closer to the bolt ?

[Steptoe]

I advoid the washer if I can...found often one cant get the penitation in that weld and the bolt weld....but when the stud is a little below the surface the washer is the way to go.
And when using the bolt, grind off the end to a tapper, like a normal plate weld, this enables far better access and penitration of the weld.

[JimM]

For the next guy who loses that bolt... Grind the broken bolt flush if needed, drill it, and just retap it, No need to get the old bolt out.
This is not a high stress fastener, the new tapped threads will hold just fine.

[flat350]

Like Jim said , that's what I did to fix mine when it broke off .