[chidester]

Hey guys, another question. I'm having some problems changing my spark plugs (1968 350ss). This is a new car to me and the first time I've changed the plugs on it. The engine has an old set of hooker competition headers, and I've been able to remove all of the plugs pretty easily except for one. I'd really not remove or loosen the headers as it seems like they are sealed pretty well, and it also looks like I would run into some clearance problems even trying to remove the headers with the engine in the car.
My question is have you all ever used these "header sockets"? I found a website selling these. It looks like it may work. Anyone used these, or have any other suggestions? I included the link to the website.
Thanks.
http://www.autotoolworld.com/HeaderS...s_p_47794.html

[68RS-SS]

Was wanting to try those out myself but they are a little pricey. I've found that what has worked well enough for me is using a basic plug socket and then a 12pt. wrench to turn it vs. the wratchet. This method has really helped with the couple of difficult plugs.

[KMG69]

Instead of using a ratchet, use the spark plug socket and then use a 3/4" wrench on the end of the socket. Been doing this for years and have never had to buy special header sockets.

Ken

[KMG69]

What Bill said! lol

[TJS69]

A couple of the plugs are easier to remove from under the car, with an open-end wrench.

[Vintage 68]

Originally Posted by KMG69

What Bill said! lol

X2

[Z15CAM]

Instead of using a ratchet, use the spark plug socket and then use a 3/4" wrench on the end of the socket.

X2 - NEVER use a Ratchet ;o)

[chidester]

I would have tried that, but there is not enough room to get the socket over the plug. I only need maybe a half inch more of clearance to get my regular socket over the plug, which is why I thought the shorter socket may work.

[Vintage 68]

Snap-On and others sell a 'short' spark plug socket ( same idea as the specialty units pictured) for just these issues.
I use mine quite often in Marine applications where the 'wet-manifolds' are very close and restrict plug access.

Working from underneath is often the only access to some applications ...

[KMG69]

Ok, then use a bent box end wrench to get it over the plug. Or slightly curved box wrench, whatever the term. Have a nice weekend and good luck!

Ken

[chidester]

Thanks for the help guys. I'll give the box end a try.

[Fred Ficarra]

Ya know, I solved that problem by getting rid of the Comps. Hate 'em. Too many years changing plugs the right way. Jacking up the car doesn't set well with me.

[victimizati0n]

Originally Posted by KMG69

Instead of using a ratchet, use the spark plug socket and then use a 3/4" wrench on the end of the socket. Been doing this for years and have never had to buy special header sockets.

Ken

this is what i do, but i really think it depends on what headers you have, sometimes i cant even get the socket on and have to use a wrench or contort my arm around to get it on the plug and have no room to fit the wrench on

[jimbo68]

I have a 68 Camaro with Hooker Super Comps. All plugs can be changed from the top using a plug socket or open end 13/16 wrench.

You should be able to change the passenger side bank with the plug socket easily. On the drivers side bank only the #3 plug requires the socket side of the open end wrench to loosen up.

Otherwise 1, 5 & 7 plugs can all be reached with the socket and wrench combo. My plug socket came from Sears (craftsman) and has a 13/16 end on that works perfect.

I can change out my plugs in 10 minutes and that is also gaping them in the process. Never had to get under the car to touch any plugs! Now these are super comps and not comps, but they should be close enough. Patients helps too!

[mike's blue67]

Originally Posted by chidester

Hey guys, another question. I'm having some problems changing my spark plugs (1968 350ss). This is a new car to me and the first time I've changed the plugs on it. The engine has an old set of hooker competition headers, and I've been able to remove all of the plugs pretty easily except for one. I'd really not remove or loosen the headers as it seems like they are sealed pretty well, and it also looks like I would run into some clearance problems even trying to remove the headers with the engine in the car.
My question is have you all ever used these "header sockets"? I found a website selling these. It looks like it may work. Anyone used these, or have any other suggestions? I included the link to the website.
Thanks.
http://www.autotoolworld.com/HeaderS...s_p_47794.html

I use them they work great, never found anything easier