[68-CAMARO-327]

I've tried to search the forum and it seem that most floor replacements have the front clip removed before the floor is replaced. My car has good metal in the tunnel and the rear seat perch and the rear driver's side foot board are good also. I want to replace the front passenger and driver side floor boards and the rear passenger foot board and also want to remove the front seat perches to see if the metal is good underneath. Is there a way to do this without removing the front clip if I do one side at a time or is it too risky because of the chance that it will place too much stress on the remainder of the structure which may cause twisting?

[Injunjoe]

I just had the left and right floor pans in my 68 coupe replaced. My situation was the same as yours: transmission tunnel and rear seat areas were fine. But the floor board was shot and there was an old Bubba patch on the drivers side. So, I bought the $75 panels (each) from AMD and had the body shop replace them for me.
They were able to cut out the pans with the subframe in place. In fact, they were able to weld in the subframe repair kit and replace the bushings while they had the floor pans removed.
As of now, it still drives fine and no real issues with allignment.
Of course, I went off of his recommendation that I only needed to replace the side pans and not the full floor after he put it up no a lift and we looked at it up high. It was not only eye-opening, but it made me feel a lot better about the condition of the undercarriage in general.

[67'7F6'Bird]

http://forums.performanceyears.com/f...=523734&page=8

Post 159 on.

I did my floor in sections.

[68-CAMARO-327]

Thanks for that reply. I'm just concerned that if I take the front seat perch out that I may weaken the cross member too much. Anybody done the work themselves?

[1971BB427]

Why take the seat perch out? If the floor pan is carefully removed without cutting into the supports below you can then examine the supports from the top side. You can clean, prep, and paint them inside and out before putting in the new pans.

[68-CAMARO-327]

Thanks for the reply and link to your thread, it is really informative. It looks like you cut the passenger side floor right to the front of the seat perch and then welded the floor to the perch, is that right?

Originally Posted by 67'7F6'Bird

http://forums.performanceyears.com/f...=523734&page=8

Post 159 on.

I did my floor in sections.

[67'7F6'Bird]

Originally Posted by 68-CAMARO-327

Thanks for the reply and link to your thread, it is really informative. It looks like you cut the passenger side floor right to the front of the seat perch and then welded the floor to the perch, is that right?

Yes,

Unless your seat pan is rusty I wouldn't cut it out.
but you can cut it out after you replace the front pan with less worry about flexing.

Steve

[68-CAMARO-327]

1971BB427 - I was going to take it out to see the condition of the floor underneath since the front pans are so rusty. How can you clean and paint them inside and out without removing them?

Originally Posted by 1971BB427

Why take the seat perch out? If the floor pan is carefully removed without cutting into the supports below you can then examine the supports from the top side. You can clean, prep, and paint them inside and out before putting in the new pans.

[68-CAMARO-327]

Thanks Steve, you're the man! It sounds like a plan, I just picked up my welder this morning and really want to tear into this project.

Bob

Originally Posted by 67'7F6'Bird

Yes,

Unless your seat pan is rusty I wouldn't cut it out.
but you can cut it out after you replace the front pan with less worry about flexing.

Steve

[67'7F6'Bird]

Hello

Post some pictures of the areas in question.

Steve

[68-CAMARO-327]

Steve,

Here are the pics. The passenger floor was covered up by the previous owner using some silicone under the panel and sheet metal screws. I expect that it will look as bad as the driver's side.

[67'7F6'Bird]

Get a wire wheel and attach it to a high speed die grinder and then use it around your floor brace, once the surface rust is gone this will give you a better idea of what to do potentially with the floor pan below the brace.

How is the underside of the floor below the seat brace(under the car) maybe use a pointed hammer and hit it to check metal condition.

Steve

[68-CAMARO-327]

Steve,

Will do. I'll probably get to it tomorrow. I'm in the process of sanding, cleaning and painting some of the interior pieces right now. Thanks.

Bob

Originally Posted by 67'7F6'Bird

Get a wire wheel and attach it to a high speed die grinder and then use it around your floor brace, once the surface rust is gone this will give you a better idea of what to do potentially with the floor pan below the brace.

How is the underside of the floor below the seat brace(under the car) maybe use a pointed hammer and hit it to check metal condition.

Steve

[jr68]

If you are going to put a wire wheel on a high speed grinder please use a face shield not just safety goggles or glasses. When you spin those at 10,000 to 20,000 rpm you are gonna launch a few wires and they can stick right into your face let alone your eye. Much more wicked than using a drill that goes 800 to 1200 rpm. Of course spinning them fast does work better just be more careful.

[68-CAMARO-327]

Thanks, will do. I probably would have just thrown on the goggles but a full face shield is definitely a better way to go.