[Johnny B]

I finally have a little time to work on the 69. Heres where I am at.....

After having the fenders dipped I was surprised to find this mess. (I knew that it was in the accident, I was there!!) This repair was done in a high-volume shop in the 70's. I guess it was the old dent puller / filler em up trick!! The repair looked real good outside and was sprayed with heavy undercoat inside.

So, I am going to try my hand at repairing this mess. The rest of the fender is in pretty good shape except for a small rust spot. (that is the easy fix!) Plus, it's original metal and I know it fits!




I have a few questions.....

I am going to try not to take any more metal off then necessary. It looks like the body shop really laid into the panel with the grinder and took off quite a bit of metal in a couple spots. It still feels strong in these spots but it's definately thin.

Is something like "All-Metal" necessary since the so tin is thin in this spot? Is the metal filled putty stronger than, say Rage Gold? (Is this even the correct way of thinking? What kind of filler should I use?)

How much filler is acceptable to level? I'm going to try to get as much of the dent out as possible with the hammer/dolly.

Do I hammer/dolly first, then weld up the holes? Or do I weld first, then hammer?

Should this panel be on the car for the repair?? I mean, will it stress when it is bolted on and aligned?


Other than patching holes, this type of metal work is new to me. (although I am good with the filler.) Please, ANY tips or advice will be greatly appreciated!! Meanwhile I back to reading search results!! Thanks.....Jb

[Denvervet]

weld the holes up for sure. All metal is much more waterproof so is good over any areas where welds will be. Besides that aspect I don't know that it's strength will add any more strength to metal..but someone with more experience than me will likely chime in here.

[Steptoe]

To hammer file that out the metal will also have to be shrunk in the center.
The metal will already be streached, further hammer file will streach even further...add to that since the damage was done many yrs ago the metal will have relaxed into that damage shape.
This should also be done on the car.
It is repairable, but the skills required to do so these days are very few and far between even in NZ....Im not too bad on hammer file, but know only 2 people who would have the skills to do so, and the time would not warrent the cost
I would be looking very very seriously at replace.
Another thing is the 69 has a very slight ridge just front of the side light...
Checking for this very sutitle ridge is a good way to see if a gaurd has been in a smack up.

[Jess67]

Steps is right. The skill to repair this are few and far between. If you do find someone, it will cost more than twice to replace maybe, or even more. I would begin searching for a NOS or used fender. Theere have been several on here in the last few years...

[Johnny B]

Thank's for the replies!

I think I am going to give it a go. I have been reading everything I can find on the net for the last two days and I think it is do-able. If I make it better, Fine! If not, then I still need a fender. Besides, 9 out of 10 threads here say to try and save your original tin. I am seeing panels much worse brought back to life!

If I can work some of the depressed area out then I won't have to layer on 1/2" of mud to get it into shape. That's what the original shop must have done. Although, I must admit that it did look fine for many years. I didn't know it was that bad till the dipper removed it all!

I still would like to know what an acceptable amount of filler is? I don't expect to completely repair this panel hammed/dolly. Agreed, that is truly an artform that not many have mastered.

Thanks.....Jb

[Jess67]

You only want a skim of filler. If it is a low spot, hammer and dolly. Dont just fill it with putty...

[Sauron67MM]

Good for you for trying. I did not begin the acquisition of metal working skills 25 years ago by not starting somewhere. Learn hammer on, hammer off dolly techniques and avoid heat when straightening panels. Don't slice them as so many do thinking it will resolve stretched metal problems. Learning how to properly work highs and lows is imperative. Those holes will be thin at the perimeter because they ground the metal after their inferior repair and used that horrific dent puller tool. I prefer Marson Platimum Premium and Dolphin Glaze to the other fillers. Rage is popular because it's name gets thrown around hobby land so much. Good professional advice on Team Chevelle also.

[markw]

Originally Posted by Johnny B

After having the fenders dipped I was surprised to find this mess. This repair was done in a high-volume shop in the 70's. I guess it was the old dent puller / filler em up trick!! The repair looked real good outside and was sprayed with heavy undercoat inside.

So the old dent puller/filler em up trick lasted 30+ years, didn't rust out, looked real good and you were surprised it was there? Boy, the work we go thru nowadays just to say it was done 'right' !

[69x55ss]

Is something like "All-Metal" necessary since the so tin is thin in this spot? Is the metal filled putty stronger than, say Rage Gold? (Is this even the correct way of thinking? What kind of filler should I use?) all metal won't add strength and will still need normal filler applied over the top, something that works wonders is fiberglass resin jelly made by Bondo and is in a green can, its water proof and works awesome, even adds some strenght, no need for fiberglass sheets with this stuff.

How much filler is acceptable to level? I'm going to try to get as much of the dent out as possible with the hammer/dolly. no more than an 1/8" is the normal recomendation and that would be with several applications to ensure that it cures.

Do I hammer/dolly first, then weld up the holes? Or do I weld first, then hammer? I would weld first and then hammer and dolly, you might want a shrinking hammer and dolly set if your new to using a torch if you go that far.

Should this panel be on the car for the repair?? I mean, will it stress when it is bolted on and aligned? finishing it on the car would be preferred but you could start it off the car and final finish it on the car.


Other than patching holes, this type of metal work is new to me. (although I am good with the filler.) Please, ANY tips or advice will be greatly appreciated!! get a copper or brass spoon to hold behind the holes as you weld them up.

[Steptoe]

I think I am going to give it a go.

I like your attitude.

you will have to heat small spots in the center of dents, then hammer file the imediate surounding area to shrink the exess metal into that area.
Think like this...the shortest distance between 2 pionts is a straight line...since the panel is dented just to hammer and file out, the extra 'distance has to go somewhere, and goes into the sourounding areas disoting those areas.
hence red hot spots in the center of a dent and working the metal back into that area and lifting the dent out....and the holes make it easier to shink it it.
If you weld the holes up 1st it makes it a lot harder to shink the panel and work back in.
get to close shape then weld up.
Anoither method is a battery dragged acrouse the streached areas...thu this work far more effectivily on larger flat panels like the trunk lid or roof.
Time..you are looking around 4 to 6 hrs.

When patching or beating I dont like any more than a a thin skim of filler 1 to 1.5 mm at most.
Your hardest part is getting the faint ridge between the side lamp and nose... something that you can finish with the hi build later. when blocking down

Again good on you for having a go....I dont wish you luck...luck is directly proportional to the effort put in.

[tgifford5]

I had a similar issue with the dent puller behind the passenger door and in front of the gills. It looked good until we took the paint off and got down to metal. My holes were not that big. But bad nevertheless. My father-in-law is doing the bodywork(40 yrs experience) and I held a flattened copper piece behind the hole while he wire welded them shut. Then as Lawerence said he used metal-to-metal. I believe DuPont makes that. Then you use a fiberglass filler after. It is best to use your original metal when possible but I thought from the looks you might want to go new. But that is only my opinion. My F-I-L would have the better opinion whether is was worth saving. I have added a couple pics. One that shows behind the door but not a very good angle to see the damage. My F-I-L's hand can be seen using a straight edge checking things out. The other pic just helps I hope show the ridge by the marker light.

[hydromo]

for a couple of hundred bucks you can buy a new fender from NPD save your self a lot of work no bondo

[8cuda]

I'm also doing the same to try to save some GM metal. I have been using a MIG welder, hammer, dolly, and a shrinking disk.
Still have a lots of more time needed to get the fender straighter.
I have no metal work experience other than reading on the web how others do their metal work.
Here is what I started with

Currently at this point

[Steptoe]

Hmmm....
maybe past it but could try the car battery
Or get the carbon tip attachment for migs for this purpose.