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| Team Camaro Tech Current Topic: How can I get my camaro to hook on street tires? | ||
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#1
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I have a 69 camaro that should be making around 400hp/400ft/lbs of torque.This is going to be pretty much a daily driver for the most part. There are plenty of cars out there with more HP/TQ so I'd like to make my car hook off the line as best I can with street tires. I'm not sure what the biggest radial you can run stock is for a 69,around 275 maybe?I am going to have an 8.5" 10 bolt built for it soon, w/ 3.73 gears. I'd really like to get this thing to hook well and show a few people I know that it is all about how much power you get to the ground.I'm sure some guys on here have some setups that are working well for them.Any info that I didn't mention and that will help,just let me know.I greatly appreciate your insight and input.Thanks
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#2
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traction bars and subframe connectors.
buy the bolt in subframe connectors.....i have them and they work great. i welded the front part....no big deal. get some M/T street and strip tires too. |
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#3
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I agree with Z/27 on his comments.You can install a set of Moroso front springs and the 3 way adjustable Competition Engineering front shocks,Ive set mine on the 90-10 setting with no problem.This will lift the front up good on hard take offs and thus more weight for better traction.
------------------ 69 Camaro SS 350 4 speed 71 Nova |
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#4
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I am going to get some bolt in subframe connectors and have them welded in,I have the weld in type,but I don't want to cut up the bottom of the car.As for traction bars,any suggestion on by who? Or should I save the $$$ and buy Cal Tracs ?? I've heard good things about them.
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#5
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cal tracs are great, i have them on my 68', and they really make the suspension work. agree on the sub connectors also. and my buddy's wife has a 69 w/ 28 10.50 micky thompson sportsman pros, and they fit but don't leave a heck of a lot of room. her car actually has a 454, no sub connectors, or traction bars, and you can make it hook real well if you work for it a little. on top of everything suspension related, though, the most important thing is lots of practice, and a feel for the car. good luck!
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#6
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the South Side Machine Lift Bars work pretty well. I couldn't say whether they work better than Cal Tracs or not though. I've never used those.
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#7
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Imho,,, cheap "slapper bars" work just fine unless you just want SOTA traction control devices...
I think they are good up to 10.5 seconds if set up right!! pdq67 |
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#8
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Build the right set of rear springs and you wont need traction bars.
That and a good set of sub frame connectors. Why re-invent the wheel by bolting on so many other parts....so many parts = so much money. |
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#9
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Cal Tracs work great, i've seen them in action plenty of times, but unless you're aiming at 10's and quicker a standard traction slapper bar works fine.
One of the local Bracket racers runs a mono-leaf slapper bar setup with a BBC 68' Camaro and has a best ET of 9.98 on 28x9" Hoosier Slicks. |
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#10
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I found a set of Lakewood traction bars lying around in the garage,are these what you guys are referring to?The bars are just there,I'm not sure if any other necessary hardware is needed to be able to install them?Are they easy to install?I guess I could bolt them on and see what they do. I have little experience with this stuff.The subframes should help for sure.By the way,I have CE 3 way adjustable front and rear shocks,and moroso front and rear trick coils,they are new,but not installed.I think I might sell them because I think the street manners would be poor for a daily driver.
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#11
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You cant. All the traction devices in the world will not help unless you get some sticky rubber to put it all in motion. Sure traction devices MAY help prevent some wheel hop but untill you get a soft compound tire that will stick you will not get proper weight transfer.
Traction causes weight transfer which causes more traction. You have to start some were. |
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#12
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Chicane,
I think I have all of $10, (1970 money), in my homemade slapper bars!! He, He!! pdq67 |
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#13
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luke
the traction bars are simple to put on. i built some that are the right length for about 15.00.......but i'm a welder too. thats the only thing some one told me was to make sure the bar rubber comes right up under the front spring perch, that way theres less flex in the spring. ------------------ 69 Camaro RS/SS 350. GM 2.02 angle plug heads. 223 dur/480 lift hyd cam. 69 z/28 alum high rise. 69 z/28 780 vac sec holly carb. 4 bolt mains,steel crank,forged flat top pistons. Turbo 350 2800 stall with shift kit. 3:73 12 bolt posi. functional cowl induction & ZL2 hood |
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#14
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If you're talking about hooking up on the street good luck. When you are producing alot of power you just can't get it to hook on the street, but will hook well at the track. I've got a '68 Camaro that I tubbed out , caged and it's a radical "street" monster. It's got a Dana 60 with 4:11 posi, coilovers, ladder bar suspension, 90/10 springs up front but will not hook on the street. I even changed my rubber to sportman pros 31x18.5x15, they're a slick compound but even aired down will not hook. The motor is a 350 bored .040, balanced & blueprinted, J&E blower pistons, forged "H" beam rods, Eagle crank, block has been clearenced for rods and "O" ringed, Brodix track 1 heads, Roller cam, lifters, rockers, 8-71 blower with two 700cfm Holleys. This combo should put the car in the high 9's if I change the top pulley to about 3% underdriven. But even with slicks it will not hook on asphalt or fresh concrete. Anyone who says they can is shooting B.S. Just my opinion.
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#15
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I figure I will bolt on the Lakewood traction bars.Should I run my CE 3 way adjustable shocks in the front and rear? If so what setting do you guys recommend.I'm hesitant to put in the moroso trick coil springs,I think it might make for too poor of street manners for a daily driver.Any opinions on that?I'm hoping that with those bars,subframe connectors and shocks that there will be a noticeable difference.
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