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| Team Camaro Tech Current Topic: B-quiet for road noise | ||
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| Interiors Upholstery & soft trim |
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#1
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I have removed the seats and carpet and have a 50 sq foot roll of B-quiet.
Does anybody have any advice on where to apply it to get the best reduction in road noise. I don't think there is quite enough to cover the full interior from firewall to trunk. Thanks |
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#2
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I think the entire floor and up the firewall is around 45sq\ft. if I remember my measurements correctly.
50sq. should work for you.
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*---------------------------------* STREET MACHINES OF ROCHESTER SEMA ACTION NETWORK UNITED SERVICES ORGANIZATION (USO) |
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#3
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Thanks. Do you feel it helped?
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#4
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I only used plain Damplifier from Second Skin without their second layer of sound deadener material on top of it. I put it everywhere inside the car and trunk, on the inner door skins behind the door panels, on the underside of the dash on either side of the speaker grill, along the bracing behind the back seat, over the rear wheel wells, and all the way up the firewall\cowl.
Which B-Quiet do you have? Anything is better than nothing (plain carpet), that's for sure. It takes that 'tinny' old car sound away while driving and when closing the doors. Road noise from the wheel well areas and under the car is gone. The floor even 'feels' more solid. The noise of a big, load exhaust is dampened and the higher pitches (the ones that hurt your ears) are gone inside the car.
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*---------------------------------* STREET MACHINES OF ROCHESTER SEMA ACTION NETWORK UNITED SERVICES ORGANIZATION (USO) |
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#5
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I have B-Quiet Ultimate. I guess I'll find out how far it will go this weekend.
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#6
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What I learned after tons of reading here and the manufacturers sites is that products like B-Quiet Ultimate and Damplifier are meant to dampen vibration(s), not necessarily block sound so much. That's why they're rubber.
They're meant to be applied in small sections or pieces to large areas like floors and door skins for instance to dampen the panels from vibrating and\or transmitting sound. They do block some heat as well... by reflecting off of the foil layer. Some manufacturers intended this type of product to be put on in little areas here and there just for virbration dampening... not necessarily applied for total coverage of an interior or trunk or what-have-you like I did (and so many people do). That's what their secondary line of paddings are for. This is not to say that there aren't rubber (butyl) backed foil products offered that ARE meant for total coverage. I believe the thicker (1/2") stick-on products are meant for total coverage to reduce heat\noise, in addition to the sound padding products. But it's my belief that these thin (1-2mm) stick-ons like Damplifier and B-Quiet Ultimate weren't intended that way. Just from my experience, it doesn't block all noise. It certainly can't block the exhaust system noise (nor do I want it to). It just keeps the road noise away and takes away that 60's car tin-can noise. And on the hottest days of the year the interior and floor stay a lot cooler. But then, my Magnaflow system stays cool by itself. I can touch the mufflers after a drive and they're barely hot, so that helps too.
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*---------------------------------* STREET MACHINES OF ROCHESTER SEMA ACTION NETWORK UNITED SERVICES ORGANIZATION (USO) |
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#7
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Joe--what would you recommend using on the roof panel for sound and heat dampening?
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'69 Frost Green V8 Coupe-Building now! '68 Sequoia Green V8 Coupe--Building now!(too) ![]() '68 6 cyl Coupe, '75 LT350, '79 Berlinetta V6, '79 Z/28, '80 Z28, '81 Z/28, '82 Berlinetta V8,'84 T-top V6, '89 RS V8, +finally a '92 Z/28 T-top in Purple Haze Metallic--...ALL SOLD ![]() Helpful build pics+tips from my restoration: http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/m...ro%20%20SS350/ My build thread: http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=146455 |
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#8
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I can't recommend a specific product, but the roof is the perfect place for the thicker, padded products that are offered. I image just sticking the 1-2mm butyl foil-backed stuff up there would certainly help though.
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*---------------------------------* STREET MACHINES OF ROCHESTER SEMA ACTION NETWORK UNITED SERVICES ORGANIZATION (USO) |
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#9
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First thing I noticed after my install was the sound of the doors shutting. Sounds like a new model, nice and solid. Sound deadner is a great investment IMO.
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69 X-44/ 427BB/ M22/ 12 bolt Muscle cars, more expensive than crack! |
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#10
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I still have the sound deading/vibration pads on the inside of the outer door panels, the inside of the rear quater panels....from memory on the floor panel tunnel, under the rear seat and floor well in the front....and think a few other places to.... the roof is the orginal padding under (or is that on top lol) of the roof lining.
I dont have the orginal hood liner..thats long gone. They apear to be some sort of mastic/tar product???? I have been reading up....some of the old truck. bucket rod guys use a builders bubble backed foil ???? we dont have anything like that in NZ....other use a building mastic/tar adhesive foil backed product....We have that in NZ..comes in 200mm 25M rolls..and they report very sucessful for road noise and heat. I really do wonder how products like Dynamat etc justify the cost Hell I often wonder how a lot of hot roding stuff justfy their prices...
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My Spelling is not incorrect...it is creative http://www.kakariki.net/camaro/Meguiars.jpg http://www.kakariki.net/camaro/BeauRep.jpg http://www.kakariki.net/camaro/xmasparade.jpg http://www.kakariki.net/camaro/trailer.jpg |
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#11
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Very true Steps... that's why I spent $200 on enough Damplifier from Second Skin to cover the entire inside of the car, as opposed to the same amount of Dynamat for $450-$500. (and I still have 20% left over!!)
Same product, same claims, same everything for half the price. But people tend to buy things because of the name on the box instead of what the product actually does. They see it in a magazine a few times and think it's the end-all, be-all. Marketing! ![]() I have to admit that researching which sound dampener to use was TOUGH. Almost as tough as deciding on an engine or what color to paint the car. There's so many choices. It took a LOT of reading and comparing. I was on a tight budget so I looked for total cost involved to make my final decision. Then I got a discounted quantity of the product because they claimed it had been in their warehouse for a while. Sweet deal!
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*---------------------------------* STREET MACHINES OF ROCHESTER SEMA ACTION NETWORK UNITED SERVICES ORGANIZATION (USO) |
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#12
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I just finished installing dynamat in my 69. $258 for two bulk packs 72 sq ft total and a roller shipped from streetside auto. I found a 10% off coupon online. I wouldn't buy the professional roller again, the cheap wood one is better.
This was my first time doing anything like this. I put this stuff on on the rear shelf, rear firewall, floor boards, kick panels and as much of the front firewall that I could reach and still have two sheets left. I didn't leave any gaps anywhere. When I am feeling more energetic I will take the door panels off and do them too. The finished product is very nice however it seemed to amplify the exhaust a little bit. The a/c now keeps the car cool inside, the stereo sounds much better and the annoying road noise and rattles are non existent. Well worth the money and time. |
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#13
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Quote:
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'69 Frost Green V8 Coupe-Building now! '68 Sequoia Green V8 Coupe--Building now!(too) ![]() '68 6 cyl Coupe, '75 LT350, '79 Berlinetta V6, '79 Z/28, '80 Z28, '81 Z/28, '82 Berlinetta V8,'84 T-top V6, '89 RS V8, +finally a '92 Z/28 T-top in Purple Haze Metallic--...ALL SOLD ![]() Helpful build pics+tips from my restoration: http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/m...ro%20%20SS350/ My build thread: http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=146455 |
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#14
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Was talking to the guys down the panel shop today...
They use different grades for diff areas Apparantly some grades are designed more for heat others more for sound...thu both do bit of each...The roof came up...they recon use the heat stuff to keep car coolers and there is more than enough sound dampener bilt in Floor tunnel they use strips of sound , and the flat (where the exhaust runs) , they use heat. Door panels etc they dont do the whole panels but large square panels in the center...these places the idea is to remove the vibrations rather than to insulate.
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My Spelling is not incorrect...it is creative http://www.kakariki.net/camaro/Meguiars.jpg http://www.kakariki.net/camaro/BeauRep.jpg http://www.kakariki.net/camaro/xmasparade.jpg http://www.kakariki.net/camaro/trailer.jpg |
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#15
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On my roof the shop used a 1/2" or so foil backed pad that they glued on. I live where it gets HOT (120 most summers) and would be afraid of the dynamat type products falling off and having to remove the headliner to fix it. Some claim it will stick but that is too big a risk IMO. I have stick on butyl mat most other places.
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68 RS Coupe 327/350 TH, Detroit Speed, Hotchkis, Vintage Air, 8.5" 3.42 posi 10-bolt, MagnaFlow 2 1/2" exhaust, etc. "The public cannot be too curious concerning the characters of public men." Samuel Adams |
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