[ramblin67rs]

The Trunk floor is pitted. It is only the tub section. The higher sections look very good. I am planing to do an oversized partial. At the moment I am plannign to do a lap weld around the pan and seal it real well. Anyone have concerns that would prompt me to do a butt weld?

[DC-69]

Patrick, I think a lap weld would work for sure, cosmetically I don't think it will look that great IMO. I guess if you used a lap joint tool to actually put an offset in the panel for a level fit at the joint it would look ok, also you could fusor it in place and IMO would be better than welding it in for sure with less warpage.

DC

[BPOS]

I just did exactly that - not afraid of butt welding, but afraid of doing precise enough cutting for butt welding. Anyway - a little plastic filler to smooth things out at the overlaps. Haven't painted it yet - waiting for warmer weather. I bought the paint - black epoxy primer and Onyx Black Zolatone. It will look good.

[ramblin67rs]

Al looks good.

Don, You bring up a good point I think I will look at the pan and make sure it lays flat before lay it down.

Thanks

[Moonpie]

That looks real,real good, BPOS.
That is the way I would go if I were just replacing the tub portion.Seal from underneath too.

[BPOS]

Originally Posted by Moonpie

That looks real,real good, BPOS.
That is the way I would go if I were just replacing the tub portion.Seal from underneath too.

Thanks Moon. I did seam seal it on the bottom side. Not an invisible repair from underneath, but neatly done.

[ramblin67rs]

Thanks everyone....Change in directinon..I stripped the paint from the area around the shock tower and a bunch of "oxidized metal" came with it. going to have to go with a full floor.

[Camuchi]

Patrick-
I vote for the But Weld - i had the same problem and was scared of leaving the confined area of a lap joint back there to collect moisture. and if you do the lap and have to go back later you may have less orig material to work with.
here are a couple of pics of mine going in-

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=134154

[ramblin67rs]

Does anyone know of a resource (article?) to guide a full trunk replacement?

[67 RS Ragtop]

Just saw your question - don't know of a "article", but saw a good slide show (pics only) on replacement of the trunk pan. It was at the bottom of post #96, posted by jeff (Fordpowerjoke) at George's (kettbo) thread - 68 Vert stored 21 years (page 7 of the thread). Hope this is usefull.

[BPOS]

Originally Posted by ramblin67rs

Does anyone know of a resource (article?) to guide a full trunk replacement?

I don't - but search around here. It seems I read - and seems apparent just by looking at it - that either a quarter panel or the tail panel has to come off to fit the full trunk in there.

[ramblin67rs]

George, THanks. I looked thru the complete thread but did not see what you referenced.

Al, Thanks. I am replacing the full quarters (one is already off). it looks fairly straight forward. my concern is once the quarters are off, do I need to install braces before pullint the complete pan?

[67 RS Ragtop]

I'm getting ready to install one myself, but left the quarters on, removed the taillight panel, trunk hinge support, and inner wheelhouse. I had not tried installing from the front (not removing the taillight panel) but that might be an option, as the rear seat back / bracing gets removed as well. BTW I'm working on a convertible. Have fun removing those pesky spot welds

[67 RS Ragtop]

PM sent. My project is on a body jig, as you will definetly get some movement when you remove the floor, even when the quarters are still in place, with the taillight panel removed. Once again, I'm working on a convertible and this may vary if you have a coupe - not sure.

[allanjs]

Patrick, I'm in the process of replacing my complete trunk right now. It
is a ton of work so be prepared to spend some time and patients. I'm not
sure if a professional would go at it the same way I am but both of my
quarters and the tail panel are off the car. I used a wide, 1/8" and 3/16",
cut off wheel to grind the spot welds down carefully so as not to damage
the frame rails. The spot welds aren't very round in shape and I didn't
want a bunch of holes in the frame rails so I did not use a spot weld cutter.
I sectioned it out using a power sheet metal shear, hammer gun,
and anything else needed. The power shear works pretty damn good.
I did not brace any where and as I was removing it did not notice any
significant movement. The new trunk will most likely not fit perfectly
anyway judging from all of the other sheet metal I have replaced. I am
currently working on fitting the new trunk. Good luck.