[JR67RS]

Installed a tko 600 in a 67 behind a sbc with a strange 12 bolt. Running global west 1.5 drop multi leafs in rear with adjustable coilovers in front. Using supplied crossmember and drive shaft from tko package. Motor mounts are good, bell housing dialed in perfect. Have a terrible vibration at 60 mph. It is possible the drive shaft needs to be re-balanced but first I need to re-check drive angle. Anyone know what I am looking for as far as degree? Can anyone save me some time in the same install on what they did to correct? Thanks guys..

[Steiner]

There's a plethora of posts on how to check pinion angle so I won't bother with the how-to. The transmission tailshaft should be pointing down at some angle. You want the pinion pointing up at an identical angle so that if you had a laser shooting out of each the two lasers would per parallel to each other.

In a 350 mount car with stock type suspension other than 1" lower coils my angles were about perfect. Moved everything over to a 307 mount car with same coils but SPC lowers for another 1" drop and Global West L16 leafs and had to shim the rear up six degrees. Both cars rode/ride perfect.

If you find you need to adjust I've got a couple sets of 4 degree shims laying around.

[JR67RS]

Thanks! I knew you would know

[Steiner]

You bet. I also know this: it can be aggravating as **** and you might waste a day getting it straightened out but it'll be worth it. Never had a vibration in either of mine but I did each of them before they even hit the road. Just a warning if you find you need shims....if they're over two degrees you'll most likely have to get a piece of pipe and make your own longer bushings to slide over the leaf pins that'll extend past the shims into the perch locator holes. I've got some of that too if you need it.

[ern]

i had the same trouble , good luck with the adjustments

[JR67RS]

Originally Posted by Steiner

You bet. I also know this: it can be aggravating as **** and you might waste a day getting it straightened out but it'll be worth it. Never had a vibration in either of mine but I did each of them before they even hit the road. Just a warning if you find you need shims....if they're over two degrees you'll most likely have to get a piece of pipe and make your own longer bushings to slide over the leaf pins that'll extend past the shims into the perch locator holes. I've got some of that too if you need it.

I'm good with how to do this but I'm a little confused on the bushing and pipe?
To hold pressure up to get shim in??

[Steiner]

Originally Posted by JR67RS

I'm good with how to do this but I'm a little confused on the bushing and pipe?
To hold pressure up to get shim in??

You've got the pin in the leafs that goes in a hole in the spring perch to locate the rear. When you use a spring pad, it's got a bushing in it that slides over the pin and sticks up a little to go in the hole. The shim, if needed, is installed on top of the leaf and if too thick the leaf pin will not stick up out of it enough. *You also need another shim installed backwards on the bottom of the leaf to keep the whole package square for when you bolt the shock plate on.* Then you've either got to make a new leaf pin or make a longer bushing to slide over the pin that will stick up into the perch. I've got some pipe that is the exact inner diameter to fit snug on the pin and the exact outer diameter to fit right in the perch hole. You need it to stick up maybe 3/16" and also have to grind or cut it so the end that sticks up is the same angle as the shim which will make it uniform.

[JR67RS]

Ok I'm with ya. Think this will be a good time to make other upgrades to rear as well so looks like a winter project. Thanks for your detailed help.

[JR67RS]

Getting there Steiner. Got a 2 degree shim in Saturday. Drove it down high way at 65 very minimal vibration but I want it perfect so this wknd I'm going to spin driveshaft and be sure it's true. My set up is so radical I think I need to change gears,, it doesn't like 5th gear!!

[JR67RS]

Thought I had it. My current angle is +2 at rear yoke = up and -5 transmission = down. I do have a shim installed at time of measurement but uncertain of what degree. Where do I go from here? Maybe I should take the shim out? That would kick yoke up right?

[Steiner]

Either rear or trans needs to go up 3 more degrees. If you have the shim in correctly in the rear (fat part facing forward), taking it out would drop the rear and give you an angle difference of 5 degrees instead of the 3 you have now.

[JR67RS]

Originally Posted by Steiner

Either rear or trans needs to go up 3 more degrees. If you have the shim in correctly in the rear (fat part facing forward), taking it out would drop the rear and give you an angle difference of 5 degrees instead of the 3 you have now.

Wouldn't you think the rear should come down? or the trans should come up? so it's a strait line? The shims were always in the car, i'm glad you mentioned being in correct. Would the fat side be facing forward as towards the front of the car? Thanks man.

[Steiner]

Angles need to be equal but opposite.
-5 trans means you need +5 rear (add 3 degrees UP to current pinion angle), or
+2 rear means you need -2 trans (add 3 degrees UP to current trans angle, -5 + 3 = -2).

If the fat side of the shim between the leaf and perch is towards the front of the car it shims the pinion UP. If it's the other way around, it shims the pinion DOWN.


The trans is much easier to shim BUT it takes about a quarter inch or so for each 1.5 degree which may not be doable if you've got a TKO. The trans is already very close to the floor pan.

[JR67RS]

Ok I understand. Thanks

[Steiner]

You bet.