[RJBaileyrn]

bolting the rag joint together on 69 coupe. Replaced the original steering box long ago with 3rd gen power steering box. The metal "bracket" that goes on the rag joint side of the coupling is hitting my hooker header tube. Don't want to dent the tube if possible. Any suggestions on this issue?
Thanks
RJ

[Steiner]

I don't see any problem with just trimming it with a Dremel or tin snips. The new model Dynatech 1-3/4" have the same problem.

[RJBaileyrn]

It isn't the rag joint itself that is hitting, the flexible part I mean. It's that metal piece that goes on the forward end of the joint. It's bent at several angles. That's the piece that hits my header tube. I would have to grind it pretty severely to eliminate that. I know I'll take heat for this, but couldn't you just not use that metal piece, and put some big flat washers on the forward side of the flexible joint before putting on the nuts? The two pins that go through the joint and fit in the metal slots on the firewall side of the joint would preent the whole thing from ever coming apart totally, or even moving that much.
RJ

[RJBaileyrn]

Just looked at my setup again, and I must be going about this a**-backwards. The metal plate I was talking about doesn't even show on the assembly manual. I think I must be trying to put it together wrong. Does anyone have a diagram or picture of how their coupler went together. It should be this mystifying to me haha.
Thanks
RJ

[RJBaileyrn]

Just looked at Rick's 1st gen couplers. They show two, one for manual steering, one for power steering. The power steering couple has the metal part I am talking aboiut that hits my header tube. They call it a "safety strap". The manual steering box does not use that. Why the difference. Why cant I NOT use it and solve my header tube issue. Not worried that it wouldn't look "original", and like I said before the two pins keep the whole thing from ever coming apart, or so it seems. The problem with the safety strap is that I couldn't alter it enough to avoid the tube interference.
RJ

[Everett#2390]

I would imagine the PS joint has the flange as a safety issue when PS pump dies and more torque is required for turning.
I only seen one joint, HR59, for PS and a universal kit for repair of both types.
You could always try a manual joint.
How much room do you need?

[RJBaileyrn]

To get that safety strap on, I'd need 1/8" or a tad more. I had it on before the new engine and headers without problem, but bigger headers now is likely the issue.
I understand what you think is the reason for having the safety strap, and it makes since. Moral is don't throw the PS belt haha.
RJ

[Eric Kammerer]

See if the link works, it should be an article explaining the construction of rag joints, and at the end is the section (also available separately as "My opinion on rag joint rebuild kits" or something like that) that explains why the "rebuild kits", which most of the ones I have seen end up being assembled as you are considering modifying yours...

http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?p=575


The wraparound safety band is part of the stop pin setup; without the ends, it would seem the stop pins could start to wobble. I would absolutely put a small dent (with an appropriately sized impact socket as the "tool" to be struck, to make the clearance dent "neat") in a new header before I would modify anything related to safety and control the way you are considering.

Maybe if you post a pic of the area it is hitting, someone will have another idea to get you some clearance. And/or post or search the manufacturer and model number of the headers to see if anyone has specifically solved the issue you are having.

[Steiner]

Originally Posted by RJBaileyrn

It isn't the rag joint itself that is hitting, the flexible part I mean. It's that metal piece that goes on the forward end of the joint.

I know what you're talking about which is why I said to trim it or take a dremel to it with a cutoff disc. I have the third gen box and same coupler. Take a look at an original rag joint and you won't feel so bad about trimming it. It's a truck rag joint afterall. Your front end isn't subject to near as much stress.

[RJBaileyrn]

Impressive article Eric, Thanks much.
RJ

[Eric Kammerer]

You are welcome. The article's author, Jim Shea, was a steering engineer for years, and is a member here and on other sites, and is a real guru.

I look at it as GM could have saved a lot of money by not having that metal reinforcing plate on the coupler, so it has some purpose. Maybe it is just for truck apps, I don't know. I don't think I have an OE 1st gen coupler here anywhere to compare the overall structure to the coupler used with the 3rd gen box (which is also what I have).

[davidpozzi]

I think the metal plate was added in the 80's and it is not needed on a first gen Camaro. However I don't have one in my hands to be sure. You do need some kind of ground wire to jumper the ground to the steering column or the horn won't work.
David

[JIML82]

The part that you are refering to is the capturing strap.

With the new energy absorbing steering columns (starting in 1967) it was discovered that in minor front end collisions the collapsible steering shaft could compress (foreshorten) and actually try to pull the flexible coupling apart. We first tried to lengthen the stop pins and revised the shoulder bolts by extending the hex heads. (You can actually see the extended heads on the 3/8 and 5/16 bolts in the above picture.) This was to keep the pins and flanges engaged if there was a minor amount of extension or pulling between the steering column shaft and the steering gear.

The capturing strap was added around 1969 to make the flexible coupling more robust and help it from seperating. So yes, it is helpful in minor collisions, but it really can be eliminated. You can just cut away the cross piece that extends over the ear of the bow tie flange. (I think that is the portion of the capturing strap that is interfering with your header anyway.) Continue to use the ends of the capturing strap under the bolt heads to spread the clamping load of the shoulder bolts over an area of the rubber disc.

Jim