[mjlynch71]

I cannot seem to get my wrenches bent to get at the passenger side rear header bolt, 12 point ARP. It is a 1969 Camaro with a 350, heater box, but no AC. I have bend a few of my wrenches in different ways but cannot get on it. Want to remove it and put in the allen type bolts. Anyone here have one thaey would want to sell that has had this same problem. Thanks, Jerod

[srode]

Allen head or 6 pt heads are a better choice for header bolts IMHO because they are often right up against the tube and can't get a box end around that side of the bolt head. Is yours up against the tube? If not, have you tried a stubby wrench or a crows foot 12pt?

[Matt 69]

Take a box end wrench and grind down the outside of the wrench on the closed end until it fits over the head of the bolt next to the tube.This will be a trial and error process until you get it to fit on the bolt.I have the exact same set up as you in my 69 and I am running 1 3/4'' primary tube headers on my car. This is what I did,and it worked.

[dawg]

I use a gearwrench with flex head!
works great every time!
ive also used a 12 point socket with 1/4 inch drive rachet and extension.

[67 4 me]

Jerod, grind off a wrench like Mike said, once you get them off, replace them with these. You'll love them.

http://www.stage8.com/

[rj68RS]

What works for header bolts is subjective based on your headers. I have 14 year old 1-3/4" Hooker Super Comps (2131). Stage-8, cap bolts, and 7/16" 6 points fit like c-rap. I went with 3/8" 12 point ARP bolts and was finally able to get them tightened up to get rid of all the leaks.

What I use is similar to Harry. A 12pt 1/4" drive shallow socket and also a 12 pt double offset box wrench that I ground the outer edge down on to allow for better fit. If I had the cash to do it over I'd scrap the Hookers and go Dynatech.

[gene68ss]

This was a real issue for me on the same bolt. I would do away with the 12 pt. to start with. I have six point; I cannot get an allen to work on mine. I took an open-end wrench cut it in half. Bent the shaft that was left 90 degrees. Then I found a deep well 1/4" drive 6-pt. socket that would slide over the shaft and hold. I bring the wrench in from the firewall side, it takes awhile but it will work. On mine, when reassembling, you want to put that bolt in first. If this is of any interest I can post a pic.
Good luck,
gene68ss

[gene68ss]

Originally Posted by 67 4 me

Jerod, grind off a wrench like Mike said, once you get them off, replace them with these. You'll love them.

http://www.stage8.com/

The fasteners you mention look good but I am probably just dense, I don't see how they would solve my clearance problem on the header bolt in question. I don't know the brand of headers on mine but #8 has such a sharp and quick angle I can not get an allen in there, or a box end, only a short open end from the firewall side. I can't get any leverage by hand so rigged up the combo in my post.
gene68ss

[rj68RS]

ya know what, I was wrong. I was just looking at my motor and I have 3/8" 6 points holding the headers on. I probably still have 4-5 different types of headers bolts in the shed as I tried just about everything on the market due to the tight bends on the Hooker headers.

Here is a pic from pass side that shows the bolts clearly. Drivers side is hard to get a decent pic of.

[keithl1967]

crows foot!

[jr68]

Hope the socket (allen) heads work for you I have been using them for years. I cut part of the end of the allen wrench off to work in the tight spots.

[mjlynch71]

I have Hooker Comp headers, and there is such a tight angle there. So the allen bolts will not work. If I can just get a wrench bent to make it work, I will also try the 12 1/4 drive, did not think of that. I like the way the Hooker's fit, the bolts are tight, but next year would like to get the headers Jet Hot, as they are now ceramic coated from Hooker. The big block headers have a ton of room between the bolts and the tubes. When I get the headers off, can that tube, tube 8 I think, can it be dented a bit more to have more room, like in a hydro press. I will get some cheap Harbor Freight wrenches then also. The Dynatech fit better, I do not have AC or PS. Thanks, Jerod

[rj68RS]

Dimpling the header tubes is pretty easy, just don't go fast as you can crack the weld where the tube meats the flange. My Hookers are ceramic coated and I used a socket wrapped with tape and then tapped it with a hammer till I got the dimple for the pitman arm just right. I would think same process would work around bolt and spark plug areas.

[Fred Ficarra]

I've got some wall art that I'm willing to part with cheap. One display is a pair of Super Comps and the other is a bucket of ARP 12 points. Any takers?

[Andrew69]

My header bolts are 7/16" like pictured above and the back bolt on the passenger side was always impossible to get to. I bought the crows foot wrench and the right angle head wrench but they really didn't work. What I found really works is a 7/16" box end wrench cut in half. I can reach in there with my left hand and easily screw or unscrew that bolt. With that short leverage getting it tight enough is a challenge so I occasionally check to ensure it remains tight.