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| Team Camaro Tech Current Topic: Is it possible to paint just the lower rocker panels? | ||
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| Body Shop Paint & Body Forum |
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#1
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New owner here. There are many chips in the paint in the 67 camaro I recently got. The chips are mainly down low, below the lowest body line.
Is it possible to just paint from that body line down? The car is black. Thanks! Ron |
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#2
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Sure why not, unless it's purely a "show" car.
I'm guessing if it has chips, it's being driven.
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1969 Camaro SS 350, M21, 12 Bolt Posi |
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#3
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I actually hit the lower rocker on mine with rattle can spray on undercoating, the kind that stays kinda rough not squishy. Since it's the '69 SS-style black below the molding you can't really tell.
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'69 Camaro X11 Street Car Dart 400 - AFR-195's - Comp HR 224/224 - Powerjection III TKO-600 - Moser 3.42 - Detroit Truetrac 538 lb-ft - 500 hp www.cmengines.com '69 Camaro X44 Beater - SFT 327 - M20 - Moser 4.10 '02 Z/28 vert - stock |
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#4
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Car will be driven mainly on weekends here and there. The previous owner lived up a 200' NON paved driveway, so the damage was done....
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#5
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On a black car, the matte black rocker panels may or may not look the way you want. I would get the rattle can of black rocker panel paint (bumpy stuff) like DupliColor offers and paint a piece of cardboard or paper stock and then put against the car to see how it looks.
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Russ (RJ) The Garlic Capital, Gilroy,CA 1968 RS convertible that is not quite stock Pics: my drop top driver |
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#6
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Quote:
Quote:
I'd need to do the areas behind the front and rear tires as well. |
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#7
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If it is like I think, then NO - you can't/shouldn't rattle can that high. Below the molding is OK.
Can you post some pictures? I think what you want to do is paint from the middle body line down. Then you should be OK, and might want to pin stripe it in that area if it is not an exact match.
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68 Camaro SS 396 - 468 BBC now, M21, BO coded 12 bolt - but currently has 3.31 gears and a posi. Old drag car back on the street. Looking for 68 Camaro with body number NOR 181016 CRG - www.camaros.org |
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#8
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You could try a reverse mask on the tape. This may leave less of a line between the old and new paint. Post some pics
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Little M 434 SBC with Juice in the works |
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#9
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I will post pics tomorrow night.
Can you explain reverse mask? Thanks. Ron |
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#10
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Run the masking tape half below the line that you want to separate. Lift one half of the tape up showing one half of the sticky side. Then mask only the sticky side on the top side facing up. Paper up from the top and spray. It's an old school body shop trick that we did. It leaves a faint line between the masked areas and can be lightly rubbed out after paint is cured. I wouldn't do this on a show piece. Try some test sprays on a piece of scrap metal.
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Little M 434 SBC with Juice in the works |
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#11
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I'm assuming you have zero bodywork experience because you are asking. If you are doing from the midline down on the quarter, you may want to have a shop do it. And that method is cheating and not correct anyway. Screw it up and it will not look good. I'd just paint the whole rocker and backmask the fender at the lowest bodyline's hard edge. Backmasking techniques I supplied in reply #239 in this thread: http://www.camaros.net/forums/showth...ebuild&page=16 It's often better than rolling the tape and exposing the sticky side. I do this often on repairs and jambing. Sometimes I roll the tape but you have to pull it back before the paint dries. The paint can build up on the tape's adhesive causing too hard of an edge. Do it right and the transition is often undetectable. Hit the edge with blender.
Is your car single stage or BC/CC? Hit a spot with compound and see what color comes off. The correct way is not to stop at the mid bodyline on the quarter, but blend and clear the entire panel(s). That's a job. Ending blends in mid panels eventually can be seen and fail. Areas of limited success are determined by edge crispness. Black shows when ending a blend in mid panel. |
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#12
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My rockers are going to be black but not up to the body line or curved part, only to the actual rocker panel just below the door and strait across the front lower part of the fender.
I will not be using paint because it can/will chip over time. I am going with a wrap, the same stuff they use on NASCAR and the basically the same stuff they use that would be clear and is used as paint chip guard. When it gets tattered and worn just replace it.
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"If you can leave black marks on a straight from the time you exit a corner till the time you brake for the next turn....... Then, you have enough horsepower." -Mark Donahue My 67 Camaro Time Line http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=211805 |
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#13
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really need to know if it is b/c. i would not recomend blending clear specially on black it will show after time. it best and proper to blend color an clear whole panel. my personal opinion is it is easier to clear the whole panel anyway. you could back tape but you have to do it in the proper place and use proper techique or you will end up with something that might look worse than your rock chips and or cause yourself a lot of work.
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1968 454 muncie 4spd 1967 RS L30 M20 |
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#14
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Yes, I have ZERO body work experience. I would NOT be doing the work myself. I don't even know what BC/CC is! lol
I just wanted to get an honest opinion here before I ask a shop if it's possible. The car is not, nor will it be a show car. I don't have the free time or desire for that. I just want it to look good/better. The chips are not apparent unless you kneel down and look low for them. They annoy me though. I am not looking to have most of the car repainted and incur a large expense. That's why I am asking this question. There is a body line down low, below the mid point. This is the one I wondered if it's possible to redo from there down. I was not home last night but I will try to get a picture and post it later. Stay tuned! Thanks for the informative replies! Ron |
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#15
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Quote:
When you say rockers, it usually describes the section below the door sill which is a separate section from the doors, fenders and quarter panels. BC/CC is a 2 stage Base Coat / Clear Coat - the color is the base and it gets clear over the color. The alternative is a single stage where the color is not covered in clear. I would venture to say most body shops you will talk too will want to paint the whole panel as opposed to using a body line as a masking point on both single stage and 2 stage paint. It's just going to make things easier and the match look better this way. I'm not saying it can't be done at a body line, it's just my experience's with repair work at body shops has led me to this understanding. I have had rock chips repaired on both car and truck hoods where the clear coat was sanded down in the area where the chips were, the chips were filled and the color was shot and blended in with the rest of the hood. Then the clear coat on the entire panel was sanded and coats of clear was then applied to the entire panel. I've had 2 tailgates and a door done this same way also. This has been done at several different body shops over about a 20 year period. In each case the body shops insisted on the whole panels being worked on even though there were body lines that could have been masked and partial panels painted in several cases...
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...Dennis White Wonder The Nova Photo Album www.camaroslimited.com "Don't take life so serious, you won't get out alive..." |
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