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Drive Shaft Restoration

18K views 38 replies 9 participants last post by  SOAR 
#1 ·
I am looking to get the original finish on my drive shaft, but I have never seen a picture of what a new one would look like. Does anyone have a picture of a new drive shaft or a drive shaft that is restored to factory specs. I have sen several versions of restored drive shafts, but would like to know which is correct.

Here is my original drive shaft.



Here it is after Evaporust. It removed the rust but left the pitting caused by the surface rust. You will notice that there are shiny spots on the drive shaft where the paint marks were and underneath where some undercoating overspray was. I am wondering if that shiny finish is correct.

If it is correct what would be the best way to get the rest of the drive shaft to match the shiny new metal finish of those spots.



 
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#2 ·
After thorough cleaning and de-greasing, I've always found media-blasting with Walnut shells or other non-distructive abrasive the bet for getting close to the dull finish they had new.
Sand, Glass-bead and other aggressive media leave the surface to rough and shiny in most cases - IJMHO.
You can apply one of the rust protective coatings after work is done to mintin look and prevent further rust.
 
#3 ·
But for some reason the metal on the drive shaft that was protected is very shiny. I would have thought that that meant that, that should be the original finish. Sure would love to see a picture showing the correct finish.
 
#4 ·
They weren't 'shiney' when received from the vendor and staged on the lines.
The tube sections were bare metal, clean but not polished.
The yokes were a cast steel color.
There was sometimes a slight bit or dis-coloring at the welded seam and at the yokes - there was also a very slight coat or coloration of rust at the tube to yoke weld area, looked like it formed very shortly after welding was done.

Do it however you please.
 
#6 ·
I decided to try an experiment and use a mild wire wheel on the drive shaft to see how it would turn out. I tried a small spot and liked the result so I did the whole drive shaft. It only took a few minutes at very light pressure. I may take some fine steel wool to finish it off. I may also clear it. Blasting it would give it a much duller finish.











 
#7 ·
Mike could you give us some information on the location of the marking stripes?
How far are they from the end and were they closer to the front or rear?
How wide are the stripes and what is the space between them?
Thank you for all of the info you have given us.

Roger
 
#9 ·
Hey Roger here are some primitive measurements of my stripes on my drive shaft. Obviously I should have done this when the stripes were easier to see. It looks like my stripes start right around the 10 & a half inch mark from the end of the drive shaft that has the counter weight on it. The spaces between the stripes appear to be approx 1/4 inch and the stripes them selves half an inch. perhaps someone with some more accurate info will chime in. I am also assuming that these stripe were some what random as opposed to an exact science. I am not sure what color my stripes were originally and I don't know what the specific coding of the stripes mean. I am sure someone will chime in that has the answers.











 
#11 ·
I just finished my driveshaft last week and am pleased with the results. I used a very fine glass bead set at a low pressure on my blaster so as not to damage the shaft. My goal was to just remove enough of the surface rust to give it the proper low sheen look. I then recreated the seem weld with gun blue. To protect the shaft from future rust I sprayed it with Eastwood satin clear. I was fortunate in that all of the original factory stripes were very well preserved so duplicating the stripes and colors was fairly easy.
 

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#14 ·
Wow your driveshaft looks awesome. I am thinking of using a similar product on my driveshaft to protect it. Your stripes look totally different than mine did. My stripes were much thinner and closer together. I have no idea what color the stripes were as they were all worn off when I purchased the car.
 
#19 ·
BTW...mine is for a BB with TH-400. Attached is the "before" image.

Bob
I had my driveshaft glass bead blasted and then I painted with a rattle can of aluminum paint and then SEM clear. Looks great!
I hadn't realized about the stripes....

My machine is a 67 SS396 TH400 so, Bob, would those colours red, green, and mauve be the right ones for my car?
 
#22 ·
Gord - I'm not sure that the verdict is in yet on the colors for the driveshaft. Looks like certain engine and transmission combinations had different colors. Some interesting reading on driveshaft colors can be found on the CRG website in this post -> http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=7861.0

The colors on my shaft were remarkably well preserved about 45 years, so I simply duplicated what I found.

Pete - I agree. I don't know how well the clear will hold up in the long run but if it doesn't, the driveshaft is easy enough to remove and try a different approach.

Bryon - No problem. Hopefully this info can piece meal the puzzle together on driveshaft stripes and configurations.
 
#23 ·
I am looking to get the original finish on my drive shaft, but I have never seen a picture of what a new one would look like. Does anyone have a picture of a new drive shaft or a drive shaft that is restored to factory specs. I have sen several versions of restored drive shafts, but would like to know which is correct.

Here is my original drive shaft.

Mike - What is the original engine, transmission, rear axle combination associated with this driveshaft?
 
#24 ·
That is my original drive shaft from my 69 Camaro. The Drive train is all original, 250 CI straight six, with a turbo 350 on the tree and standard high way base car 6 cylinder rear diff. I am going to paint the drive shaft like it came new from the factory. However I am not clear 100% on the color codes for drive shafts. I am using as many original parts on my car as I can including, drive shaft, alternator, & starter.
 
#25 ·
Mike, OK the three stripes that were originally only your driveshaft would be correct for that configuration. For a 1969 Z28, I believe one white and one orange would be correct.
 
#27 ·
#33 ·
Nope, the markings area is "new" to me....now that I see them in pix I recall back in the day some of the round markings and thin paint.

It seems when the driveshafts came out of the factory they already had a "patina" to them meaning they were not smooth and already scuffed up a bit. So we tend to overclean our stuff and it appears too new in some cases.

My shaft seemed to have been blasted by the guy who had the car before me and then I had it glass beaded lightly to clean up when I had the rear axle off a few years ago.
 
#34 ·
Hey Gord I just noticed that you are in Kelowna. There is a guy named Al there who is supposed to really know his way around Camaros. I am currently also looking for some help with a steering column conversion.
 
#35 ·
Hey Mike, I moved here 10 years ago and I can't place Al....he might have been the one who sold me my mini spare tire....when I picked it up from his place he had 3 or 4 Camaros to get rid of, a couple with just a few parts left and he said he was getting out of it, guess he had a family to take care of. I've met most of the guys around here with first-gens at shows and that so when I run into them again I'll query who Al might be. There's a couple of other Chevy heavies here who I'll ask as well.

When do I get to join the BC Camaros Club?
 
#37 ·
I decided to paint one orange stripe and one white stripe on my drive shaft. I have not decided if I am going to use the stencil to apply the numbers or not. I have mounted the stencil incase I decide to spray it. I have the Quanta drive shaft kit. You don't really need it IMO. I guess the paint is supposed to be the correct colour, but I am sure you could just spray bomb it and get it close enough, if you are into that sort of thing. Use this stuff outside or with a mask.

Here is the kit with the firewall stamps and paint. The kit comes with a can of yellow spray paint for the drive shaft stencil. Some tape that goes around the body bushings, a grease pencil, & paint. You have to be really careful with the paint as it tries in seconds. It is more like nail polish than paint to be honest, and it is very strong smelling. Warning on the bottles not to inhale the fumes.



Here is the first coat on the drive shaft. It will take at least 2 coats as the paint actually dries as you are applying it. Sort of hard to work with I found. I masked of the stripe area first, then applied the paint with a nail polish type brush that is attached to the cap of the bottle.



Here is the stencil applied.

 
#38 ·
My bad. I have been corrected. For some reason I thought the stencil went on the drive shaft. Note to self. Read the instructions first. Doh!

Here is the drive shaft after removing the tape. Looks pretty good. I have not yet decided if I am going to clear the driveshaft or not.

 
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