[Domano 68]

I've got my coil spring R & R set up for this weekend and a friend of mine is going to let me us his car lift. Love working on my feet instead of my back.

First question, does using a car lift eliminate the need for a spring compressor and/or chain since the wheels are hanging down?

If I do have to use an internal spring compressor do I still need to use a chain? If so, how do you wrap it so it will hold the spring coiled? Do you lock the end so its tight? Then, how do you get the chain off of the expanded spring. Sorry for the basic question, I am just not picturing this. First time coil spring replacement for me.

Also, do I need to do anything different since I have A/C?

Thanks! [img]graemlins/beers.gif[/img]

[ 06-03-2004, 12:12 PM: Message edited by: Domano 68 ]

[jumpstart]

It doesn't matter if the car is on a lift or not. I assume we're talking about a lift that supports the car at the frame, not one that the car can just drive onto. The chain is mainly used as a way to contain the spring if it were to come flying out while you are working on the front end. All that is needed, is to loop the chain through the spring around one or two of the coils and also arould some part of the car, such as the frame, a-arm, or the like. Whether using an internal compressor or external one, a chain should be used just as added safety. Once the sring is compressed, it has an incredible amount of energy just waiting for a chance to come loose! Also the chain should be attached before the spring is compressed. At least that's how I do it. Try looping it through one of the middle coils and then around something solid on the car, kind of away from you so if it comes flying out, it's not coming at you. Like I said, it's for safety not part of the comressing or removal procedure.

Are you replacing the original springs with stock replacements, or are you using lowering springs? If stock, A/C might be important, though I doubt it. I used Hotchkis one inch below stock height and I like the result. My springs were shorter than stock so I didn't need to compress them at all.

Others please chime in. I'm sure I missed other points. Good luck [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]

[Run269]

do a search for the word "sproing" in the brakes and suspension section. very recent post. spell it just like i did. only one hit should come up. everything you need to know is there.

[img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]

[Domano 68]

Great description Jump! So the chain is used as a "leash" or a device to hold the spring to the car. I was picturing wrapping the spring around the entire spring to keep it compressed.

So if the spring does get jumpy, which direction would it be coming from? From the wheel well away from the car, toward the engine, toward the front or rear bumper? (Its obvious now that I have never taken apart A-arms! )

I am replacing the original springs with factory replacements. The car lift does lift the car at the frame points. (I am 6'4" and I don't have to duck )

Thanks for everybody's input.

[ 06-03-2004, 06:12 PM: Message edited by: Domano 68 ]

[jethro]

Sproing was from my recent post on this, and I want to add a few gotchas/lessons learned on this, though I would still suggest you look at that thread.

As mentioned, you need to actually take the weight off the lower a-arm once your car is up on the lift. Remove the shocks.

I would suggest you remove the stock springs by separating the lower A-arm at the ball joint once you have the spring compressed and chained. Obviously you need a decent hammer, about 3 lbs, and a pickle fork. I would have new lower ball seals ready to drive on afterwards. This separation gives you much better geometry to reinstall the new springs, and a much easier time reconnecting the lower a-arm than by removing both frame bushings.

Use an internal spring compressor, and use one from Pep boys or another rental agency that looks like this:
http://www.autopart.com/Tools/file/part189.htm
This one will allow you to remove the pieces out the hole in the lower a-arm... you can not remove an internal spring compressor through the spring itself... at least stock units.

Do not put your hooks from the compressor too far up, or too far down on the spring, or they will bind in the spring pockets. If they "just" catch the lower spring pocket, you can still remove the hook by hammering it along the coil of the spring until it frees.

When you put your spring in, make sure the spring compressor is right side up, meaning the bolt for compressing/releasing it is on the bottom for access up through the hole once again on the lower a-arm... LOL.

When you have your new spring compressed, slide it up into the upper a-arm pocket. Make SURE you use the small hole at the top in the upper a-arm to insure you have the end of the spring in the proper position. Then, if you have long springs going in, say stock ones, then you may have to "seat" the lower portion of your new spring into the lower a-arm by pushing it over to the spring pocket with, say a crow bar, while you are raising the lower a-arm with a jack from below.

If you are removing stock springs, and reinserting stock springs, the above will save you a TREMENDOUS AMOUNT OF TIME AND ANGUISH!... email me and I'll give you my phone number if you have a question.

[Domano 68]

Thanks Jethro. I'll send ya an email if I get stuck. I'll check the local Autozone to see if they have that type of compressor.