[Sgrouse]

I always thought that I could handle any brake problem with ease. Not this time:

During this process of rebuilding and adding posi to my 68's rear-end, I created a problem with a low brake pedal I can't seem to solve.

The rear brake lines were replaced during the rear-end rebuild. (front lines and calipers are about 1.5 yrs old) Then after bleeding the brakes and driving the car a few miles, I developed a leak @ the base of the master cylinder. Off to autozone to get a new master cylinder I went and bleed the brakes until I am blue in the face and still a low pedal. Seems like air in the lines but no air coming out during bleeding. No loss of fluid.

Is the bore of the M/C I bought wrong?

I can get the car to stop but can barely get tires to lock-up. Pedal will bottom-out on metal-to-metal contact with the power assist when the car is running.

Front disk/ rear drum power brakes.

Thanks a ton
Steve

[ 03-02-2005, 05:47 PM: Message edited by: Sgrouse ]

[Silver69Camaro]

Brakes are simple devices. For brakes not working well, these are the main possibilites:

1. Insufficient friction between pad and rotor
2. Brakes not able to convert the kinetic energy into heat
3. Not enough line pressure.

Obviously, #3 is the most probable. You need to figure out why it isn't getting enough pressure. Double check that MC like you said, make sure it's correct. If that's good, there HAS to be air in the system. Did you bench bleed the MC? What method of bleeding are you using?

[ohcscott]

could be master to pushrod mismatch. short rod, deep master. given your sequence of events and symptoms, thats where i would look first.