[Aaron Bullock]

I'm trying to gather everything for my front discs and I need some advice.

I already have new rotors, calipers, pads, bearings, and master cylinder for manual disk/drum application. I need brake lines though and a proportioning valve.

What should I do about a prop. valve? I'm not worried about originality, so long as it looks decent and performs okay. How should I order my brake lines to go with whatever prop valve I use?

Do the pre-bent front lines hook directly into the master cylinder, or do they hook into the proportioning valve too?

Wow, this don't make sense to me...
Help!

[ohcscott]

go to inlinetube.com
give them a call and see if they have what you need. if you have all GM style parts, they prob'ly do.

if it was me, i would buy one of their combo valves, a roll of tube, and the correct fittings, 'rent' the flare-kit from autozone, and bend my own.

actually, i'd go to the yard, heist a valve from a 85 olds cutlass or similar, and make its tubes work, or bend my own.
be sure you have the right fittings.

go to david pozzi's site, and know the difference between a metering valve, a prop valve, and a combo valve, if you are unfamiliar with them.

people have got away with no valving, and had no complaints.
most people just go with an adjustable prop. in the rear, and reuse their distribution block.
i would prefer metering and prop. like the manufacturer intended for disc/drum.

clear as mud...sorry.

[Aaron Bullock]

Thanks Scott for the reply. By proportioning valve, you mean the one along the subframe? David has a link where it was used incase of snowy or icy conditions.


Whats this distribution block? The one under the drum master cylinder with the warning switch?

Thanks for helping me decipher all this!

[ohcscott]

distribution block is the one you said.

proportioning valve keeps the rears from reaching as much pressure as the front, to keep the rear from locking up on hard stops, or in the RAIN or snow. OEM disc/drum valve is on the frame.

metering valve, also called hold off valve, keeps the front from applying until the rears reach something like 30psi. this helps keep the front end from diving when brakes are applied.
it may also help keep the rearend from getting away while stopped on a slippery surface (useful for old ladies). OEM disc/drum valve is located next to master cylinder.

you should have at least a proportioning valve in the rear line. otherwise your rear wheels may lock up on a hard stop or in the rain/gravel/sand/snow.
you can get an adjustable one, and put it on the frame. reuse the distribution block so you have a brakelight warning switch, and distribution to the fronts. a metering valve can be added later if nosedive seems to be a problem.

or, with some more work, you could put in a combo valve. OEM combo valves incorporate proportioning, metering, warning switch, and distribution. there would be no need for separate pieces.


easiest thing for you is get an adjustable proportioning valve and plumb it to the rear line along the frame. then try to reuse the rest of the lines the way they are, if possible.