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| Team Camaro Tech Current Topic: cal tracs and bolt torque | ||
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| Brakes, Suspension & Steering Conversion questions, Steering & Handling |
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#1
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guys,
im putting my new leaf springs and caltracs on. the cal tracs directions say to make sure everything pivots freely but if i torque everything down to GM specs (25 ft lbs on the spring clips, 65 on the eye bolt), the front pivot on the caltracs is very hard to move. it moves, but its kinda hard to move is this normal or should the pivot turn easy as pie? what do you caltracs guys torque the eye bolt to? also, my eye "cup" (metal eye cup that is held by the 3 screws) doesnt want to line up exactly with the holes/clips. i have to start the bolts and use them to draw the cup up to the frame. is this normal? or could this be part of the problem above? thanks
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1967 SS 396, M20. now a 10.4:1 540, AFR 315 heads, UDHarold SR Cam with a Tremec TKO |
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#2
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jks,
I can't answer your quesiton but maybe you can answer mine. If you're using solid bushings in the frame rails, what brand and where did you get them? chad
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68 Camaro 327/210hp. LeMans Blue |
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#3
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im not using solid bushing in the frame rails... im using prothane poly.
that actually brings me to another question. one of the left side frame rail bushings was really hard to get in. i had to use a bolt through the other one to draw it into the hole. the other side was fine. the side with the difficult bushing is the side that is hard to move(the side i wrote of above). the other side seems to be fine...and the bushings were easy to install. im wondering now if its possible to have the bushing a little cockeyed in the frame rail (is that possible??) and that could be "torquing" the leaf spring to one side which in turn makes things line up a little weird which is making the one pivot hard to move... what do you guys think?? thanks guys!!
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1967 SS 396, M20. now a 10.4:1 540, AFR 315 heads, UDHarold SR Cam with a Tremec TKO |
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#4
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what do you think guys?
thanks
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1967 SS 396, M20. now a 10.4:1 540, AFR 315 heads, UDHarold SR Cam with a Tremec TKO |
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#5
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ttt
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1967 SS 396, M20. now a 10.4:1 540, AFR 315 heads, UDHarold SR Cam with a Tremec TKO |
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#6
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I put my cal tracs on a few weeks ago. The guys at Calvert racing (home of the cal tracs) say to forget about the factory torque settings.
I snugged mine up and backed off the nut until everything moved freely. The guy at Calvert racing said the lock nut supplied will keep everything in place. If you are driving the car on the street, you might want to adjust them with some air gap between the front stop bolt and the spring. Running them with it touching and a half turn of preload like the directions say kills the ride.
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67 RS 383, Tremec TKO<br />17" Torque Thrust<br />11.56 @ 117 mph <br />Build em to drive |
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#7
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Can you post picture of the finished setup?
Ive heard about Cal tracs but never seen them on the car. Jason
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<a href="http://www.geocities.com/ralleysport2000/69camaro.jpg" |
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#8
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sure, when i get it done [img]smile.gif[/img]
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1967 SS 396, M20. now a 10.4:1 540, AFR 315 heads, UDHarold SR Cam with a Tremec TKO |
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#9
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I can post one if someone can tell me how to post a pic.
[img]graemlins/waving.gif[/img] |
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#10
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hey guys,
so i talked to travis at calvert racing and he said basically what conehead said ... to make it tight and then back off until its free pivoting. but my question is since the nut will be fairly loose, how do i keep it from falling off? do i use a castle nut/cotter pin? do i use a nylon locking nut? do i just a whole lotta red loctite? i just dont want coming undone thanks guys!
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1967 SS 396, M20. now a 10.4:1 540, AFR 315 heads, UDHarold SR Cam with a Tremec TKO |
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