[pdq67]

At it again....

I put my brake M/C push rod up sooo good that I can't find it now??? I hate it when I do that!!!!!!

What is the shaft diameter and thread size as well as length to the locknut from the rounded tipped end on a stock non-power drum brake car??

I need to make a shorter one for my new M/C...

Sorry for all the trouble and thx. in advance..

pdq67

[davidpozzi]

I've got one from a 69 I can measure, the threads are 3/8" NF, I'll have to check the length. Does your MC have a shallow hole?
David

[pdq67]

Yes, that's why I'm making the cap to keep the short push rod from falling out in case the M/C's piston hangs up..

I can picture my p/r with it's jamb nut still on it in my head but I will be darned if I can think of where I put it????

pdq67

[Branded]

Isn't the shallow hole master cyl for power brakes? The deep hole is for manual brakes and keeps the push rod from falling out.

[pdq67]

Yes Mr. C,

That's why I'm making an endcap so the short p/r will fit through it and if something happen's, it can't fall out of position.

I bought a dark gray glue-on 1.25" dia. PVC pipe cap and was going to modify it BUT I just measured my firewall M/C snout hole and the plastic pipe cap's walls are too thick to fit through the hole??

So I am going to see if a 1.25" copper pipe cap will fit this Friday when I'm off work. I will have to go to a Plumbing Supply outfit for it b/c I don't think the hardware place's stock copper pipe that big??

pdq67

[davidpozzi]

Paul,
Second gen's use a cap that would be ideal if you can find one. It won't fit over an aluminum MC though, they are too large.

David

[pdq67]

I saw it David but I don't know where there even is a yard that would allow me to look for one??

I think I even contacted Cardone and asked if they might have a discarded one and I don't even think they knew what I was talking about..

I think I have it figured out how to fab. one if I can't buy a 1.25" copper pipe sweat-on cap..

pdq67

[davidpozzi]

My 69 pushrod is 7" long from MC end to clevis pin. The threaded rod is screwed in a half inch into the clevis, the rod part is 5.5" long by itself.

I have a deep MC and shallow MC, the difference between them is 1.350".
David

[pdq67]

Thx David, that's about what I am coming up with by eyeballing my tape into the f/w to the end of the clevis.

I am going to pick up a bolt and start ta whittling out a new shorter p/r tomorrow b/c I have to put brakes on my son's car and go to my men's grup at church.

I know my old p/r will turn up but boy it frustrates me to put something up and then can't find where I put it for safe-keeping!!

Of course my other son decided to move my tools from one tool box to another tool boxe for me so I bet he moved where I had it????

Paul

[davidpozzi]

I'd use a grade 8 bolt for the rod. Don't use allthread, it may buckle at the time you most need it!

I hate misplacing things. Mary and I cleaned out my old garage for her to work on her 73RS. She'd ask "what's this?" and I'd launch into a big story about the part and she was just amazed!

Like a funny long rubber band that was hanging on a nail. I'd hit a deer with my 67 Camaro one night in the early 70's, and the fender cut the rubber band off the front tire! I thought that was wierd and just kept it.

Careful placing blame on others for the missing part. If it wasn't him after all, you are gonna have to apologize.
David

[pdq67]

Yes, I am going to get a Grade-8 bolt and yes, I realize I probably will find it about a week after I get my M/C on...

I still have to get all my stuff in my roll-around stacked toolbox so I bet it will turn up as things start finding their original spots..

pdq67

[RickD]

Paul, it's been a while since it was posted on pro-touring.com but others have made a simple 'z-bar' bracket that bolted to the inside of the firewall and kept the rod from every falling out. Looked quite simple to fab and was effective. The rod passed through a hole in the bracket.

[pdq67]

Gotcha Rick,

I figured either making a can with two 90 degree tab's that would fit around the M/C's end and then the tab's would install on the two mounting bolts between it and the firewall or else like you are talking about.

Thanks for reminding me..

pdq67

[pdq67]

I went to a local Industrial Supply House this afternoon and picked up a 1.5" copper pipe sweat-on end cap to make my M/C short push rod retainer out of. (The copper cap I got is made by NIBCO).

It fits the firewall hole and the O.D. of the M/C almost perfectly!!! I figure I can shorten it so that it just fits the M/C snout and then make an oval hole in it's end and then pein it slightly onto the M/C dust boot groove and be done with it...

And I'm gonna double check it being fastened OK too!!

Great!!!!!

pdq67

[pdq67]

The big M/C, copper cap P/R retainer and new short P/R are on my car and everything went fine!

The only thing that I am totally not sure of is if I have the new p/r the right length with say .030" clearance?? I think I do but just eye-balling it makes me wonder???

I just drilled a 9/16" round hole in the cap and it is great after crawling up under the steering wheel and looking at it!!! There is NO way the P/R can drop down!!

pdq67