New Engine Break-IN Procedure (GM crate motor) - Team Camaro Tech
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  #1  
Old Dec 10th, 00, 05:16 PM
sr71bb sr71bb is offline
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Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Big D little a-l-l-a-s
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We have talked about this before, but I thought I would post this for those of you planning on putting that new motor in this winter. These are GM recomended procedures:

Recommended GM Crate Engine

Start-Up Procedure

1) Safety first !!! If the car is on the ground, be sure the emergency brake is set, the wheels are chocked, and the transmission cannot fall into gear.

2) Be sure to check the oil level in the engine and prime (GM#12368084, see bottom of page) the oil system.

3) Run the engine between 2,000 and 2,500 RPM, with no-load on the engine for the first 30 minutes.

4) Adjust the distributor timing roughly by hand for a quick start up and smoothest idle possible.

5) Adjust the carburetor settings, if necessary.

6) After the first 30 minutes of the engine running, set the ignition timing to proper timing specifications.

7) Drive the vehicle with varying speeds and load on the engine for the first 30 miles. Be sure not to use a lot of throttle or high RPM !!!

8) Run five or six medium-throttle accelerations to about 5,000 RPM (55 or 60 MPH), then let off in gear and coasting back down to 20 MPH.

9) Run a couple hard-throttle accelerations to about 5,000 RPM (55 or 60 MPH), then let off in gear and coasting back down to 20 MPH.

10) Change the oil and filter with 10W30SG oil and PF1218 AC Delco oil filter GM#25160561.

11) Drive the next 500 miles normally, without high RPM's (below 5,000 RPM), hard use, or extended periods of high loading.

12) Change the oil and filter again.

13) Your engine is now ready for many happy cruising miles !!!
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  #2  
Old Dec 11th, 00, 02:40 AM
Mark W. Winning Mark W. Winning is offline
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How long before you can spray it???

------------------
------------------
Mark

1992 Firebird 355/Six Speed (Soon to be LT1)
1991 RS 350 / 700-R4
1987 Toyota Pickup 383 / 500 + HP 10.963 @ 119.95 Slicks / 11.997 @ 114.23 Radials
"Speed KILLS, so drive a FORD and live forever!"
http://personal.lig.bellsouth.net/~racer383/
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  #3  
Old Dec 11th, 00, 04:16 AM
sr71bb sr71bb is offline
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I personally wouldn't juice it until around the 2000 mile mark. If the rings don't have a good seal by then, they aren't going to so it won't matter anyway.
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  #4  
Old Dec 11th, 00, 05:28 PM
mobiletools mobiletools is offline
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Thumbs up

One other thing to remember is the heat the motor is going to generate in the exhaust. Run fans on the manifolds or headers. They will get very hot. I did a breakin on my ZZ-502/502 motor and had the jet coated headers on and a couple of tubes were starting to look a little hot. We put 2 fans on the headers and as I'm reading another paper that came with the motor it said "Use Fans and also a pair of old headers for breakin first, then install the headers that you are going to use". Figures.
Just something I ran into 3 months ago.

Bob


------------------
69 Coupe LeMans-Blue
Frame-Off Resto, ZZ-502/502 Crate, A/C, Griffin Rad., March Serpintine Sys., 2800 Stall with Hughes T-400, Currie 9" with 370 Gears.
www.geocities.com/mobiletools1/
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  #5  
Old Dec 12th, 00, 02:41 AM
Mark W. Winning Mark W. Winning is offline
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The headers for my truck told me NOT to use them on a new motor also. It even stated that using them to break in a new motor would void the warranty.

------------------
------------------
Mark

1992 Firebird 355/Six Speed (Soon to be LT1)
1991 RS 350 / 700-R4
1987 Toyota Pickup 383 / 500 + HP 10.963 @ 119.95 Slicks / 11.997 @ 114.23 Radials
"Speed KILLS, so drive a FORD and live forever!"
http://personal.lig.bellsouth.net/~racer383/
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  #6  
Old Dec 15th, 00, 08:15 PM
awsm502 awsm502 is offline
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Hey 502 Bob,

I also put a ZZ 502/502 in a '69, and have some questions for you, if you don't mind.

How hot does yours run with the Griffen rad? Are you running a mechanical or electric fan?

Does the car have factory A/C, or aftermarket?

Any time slips yet?

Keith
'69 RS/SS 502
Hugger Orange/White Top/Int.
TH400, 4:11's, 2.5" Flowmasters
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  #7  
Old Dec 16th, 00, 06:33 AM
mobiletools mobiletools is offline
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Hey Keith
Isn't this motor awesome!!!!!
I keep 2 sets of tires in the garage. I'm running the 9" with 3:70 and you have the 4:11, oh god!!! Wasn't that you driving by


As far as the Griffin Rad. no problems. I have the 2 core 1 1/4" per core. I have the 7 blade fan and have a fan clutch. no over heating.
The car came with fac. a/c but I took it out and put in a B/B a/c from a 69 Firebird. I bought it from Franks Pontiac in CA.
The compressor is from March Pulley Co. I bought the Polished All. compressor. The whole Serp. System was expensive but it looks sweet.

What kind of stall are you running??
Have you been to the track? Times? Solid motor mounts or regular?
This is my first B/B and I ask my self why was I screwing around with the small blocks.

Bob

------------------
69 Coupe LeMans-Blue
Frame-Off Resto, ZZ-502/502 Crate, A/C, Griffin Rad., March Serpintine Sys., 2800 Stall with Hughes T-400, Currie 9" with 370 Gears.
www.geocities.com/mobiletools1/
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  #8  
Old Dec 16th, 00, 07:30 PM
awsm502 awsm502 is offline
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Bob,

I agree, this engine is brutal!! With the 2.5" Flowmaster system, I shake the dishes in the kichen when I fire it up in the garage! I only have 500 miles on the engine (I finaly finished this latest project in October), so I haven't done any smoke shows or track testing yet. I figure I'll give her 1500 miles befor I drop the hammer, and maybe 2 grand befor I hit the track. Even so, at a 1/4 throttle, I chirp the tires!

I have opted for a 3000 to 3500 stall converter, per my trany builders advice. I would like to see how the car performs on the track with the 4.11's, then I'll switch to a more cruiser friendly 3.55 / 2500 stall converter. We'll see.

The car is an original BB AC car, so I tried to make the stock 4 core, 27" goose neck radiator work, but no deal. I ran 200 cruising, 210 to 220 in heavy traffic in Chicago in October. Granted it is a fresh "tight" engine, but I would like alittle more safty factor to prepare for the 90 degree-plus days. I've been researching aluminum radiators for next season, and I am still on the fence. I was leaning toward Be Cool, because they were a hell of alot more helpful over the phone then the people at Griffen. But now I don't know.

Were you able to run the factory fan shroud (does the Griffen have the little indexing tabs at the bottom of the tanks? How is your upper rad. hose clearance to the A/C compressor? I assumed I would have to have them custom make the goose neck to clear the compressor. Did you make the straight neck radiator work?

I take it you haven't taken your car to the track yet either, huh. I'll definately post the times when I do. Unless I twist the car in half, that is.

How did you paste that pic in?

Keith

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  #9  
Old Dec 17th, 00, 02:09 AM
mobiletools mobiletools is offline
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What kind of tires are you using? I have the BFG 275 60 15 on the car. I hear you about the 1/4 pedal. And here's a better one the motor is going to get stronger as you break it in. Take advasntage of the one year warrenty on the engine. Where did you buy your motor?
If you change you radiators buy the Griffin only. I talked to Griffin a couple of times and know what you mean but it depends who you get. Be-Cool will be more helpfull because Griffin is the best. The catch-up game. I have the part number for the radiator here somewhere. I had a shop order the radiator for me. They could get it quicker than I could. If you need help let me know, I sell tools to the guys and we help one another.
I ran the factory B/B fan shroud. The top hose is from a pick=up truck I beleive. I took 7 hoses from the auto store and tried them all and found the one that fit. The March compressor is different than the stock comp. I could see the number on the hose if you end up getting the Griffin.

No twisting!! I hope you have frame connectors. Do you have drum or disc up front. I converted to disc up front and have the Currie rear with 11" drums in the back.
For the pics. click on the UBB cobe and follow the instruction. It's easy.
Keep in touch, Bob



------------------
69 Coupe LeMans-Blue
Frame-Off Resto, ZZ-502/502 Crate, A/C, Griffin Rad., March Serpintine Sys., 2800 Stall with Hughes T-400, Currie 9" with 370 Gears.
www.geocities.com/mobiletools1/
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  #10  
Old Dec 17th, 00, 08:03 PM
awsm502 awsm502 is offline
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Location: Island Lake, IL
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Hey Bob, nice ride!

Tires? Try BFG P235 60 R14's! I know, I know. I'm just not into the big tire thing. Which means I'm not into the traction thing, either I guess.

Yep, I put Compitition Engineering bolt in frame connectors on, highly modified so they actually fit the car. Imagine that, a bolt in part that you have to modify to fit. That never happens.

Your comment on the warranty thing, did you have any problems I should know about?

I bought the engine about 2 years ago from Sallee Chevrolet out of Oregon. $4500 for the long block basic kit. It was the best deal I could find at the time, and it looks like it is still a good deal now. The guys at Sallee are really good, too bad the place is so far from me.

My car is a real RS/SS 396 A/C car, so it has power front disc brakes from the factory. I just have repacement one-piece rotors with metalic pads. Now that I have an engine with vacuum (I had a pretty radical cam in the 396), stopping is not a problem! BTW, who's disc brake conversion did you use, or did you go with stock parts?

I don't have a web page with the pics of the car, maybe I can e-mail you some. It looks like I can only insert a pic if it is accessed via a web page.

Keith

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  #11  
Old Dec 18th, 00, 12:20 PM
mobiletools mobiletools is offline
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Thanks for the info Keith and the compliment.
For your pics, you can set up a geocities file manager and post your pics in there. Then you can log the pic. address in the Team Camaro site here, just follow the instr. in the UBB codes.
I went with the Jegs bolt-on Frame connectors and then welded them on. They fit good.
No problems with the warrenty thing. I'm just having a blast with the motor.
I bought the motor from a performance center in NJ. I looked at it in Ohio at Jim Pace Gm perf. center. they wanted 6600.00 fully assembled. I was lucky I had a full van of NOS sheetmetal parts and it couldn't fit. I just came back from Camaro Parts Network in Ohio, They had the whole exterior for my car, even the NOS full metal dash. My roof came from Chicago Ill. It's from a 69 Trans-am.
I finally bought the motor in NJ for 6250.00, all I had to do was put on the carb. and starter.
The front brakes were from stock parts that I bought. I wanted to by a setup from Vette brakes in Florida but they gave me such a run around with the prices. They told me 750.00 for the whole setup, even faxed it to me 2Xs. then they said no way. Impossible. I even talked to the owner and sent him the fax back so they could see it. A few days go by and I didn't hear from them and I sent a well worded letter to him in an e-mail, Well then they send me an e-mail and say they'll honor the 749.95 you were quoted. So after days of this crap I told them my feelings about there help, and I wouldn't even think of giving them a dime. Sorry they really pissed me off.

I can't waite to see your pics
Bob

------------------
69 Coupe LeMans-Blue
Frame-Off Resto, ZZ-502/502 Crate, A/C, Griffin Rad., March Serpintine Sys., 2800 Stall with Hughes T-400, Currie 9" with 370 Gears.
http://www.geocities.com/mobiletools1/Mvc-440f.jpg
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  #12  
Old Dec 18th, 00, 12:28 PM
mobiletools mobiletools is offline
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Location: Conn.
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By the way they told me it was going to be $849.95 and I even had the paper for 749.95!!!! that was faxed to me 10 days eairler.
That just isn't right.

------------------
69 Coupe LeMans-Blue
Frame-Off Resto, ZZ-502/502 Crate, A/C, Griffin Rad., March Serpintine Sys., 2800 Stall with Hughes T-400, Currie 9" with 370 Gears.
http://www.geocities.com/mobiletools1/Mvc-440f.jpg
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  #13  
Old Dec 19th, 00, 08:35 AM
awsm502 awsm502 is offline
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Hey Bob, e-mailed you some pics at the mobiletool adress. let me know if you get them.

Keith
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