[aonghus]

cant tell if the damper is moving in anymore, is this adequate enough? or does it need to move back further ?

[MJM]

Hard to tell..by the timeing marks I would think it is in far enough. Is there not a bolt In the end of the crankshaft to hold the damper on? If you have the bolt torqued to spec I would say everything is O.K. [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]

[aonghus]

That timing marker is the marker for the old damper (not that I suppose there is a difference)

I bought this pointer off summit:


My reason for asking if this is far enough, is because the old damper appears to have been in further on its own hub, as picture appears below:

[Everett#2390]

The woodruff key for the dampener may have become wedged at the rear of its slot and preventing the new balancer from moving further rearward.

Both balancers laying down on the table should be of the same height. Also, once installed, adding the crankshaft pulley, alignment is important.

Both balancers should be at the same depth on the hub inside the timing cover. This is important. Pulley alignment is secondary.

[MJM]

The hub on the balancer must go through the timeing cover seal and butt up against the crank timeing chain sprocket. Don't forget to lube the seal! After rereading your post and takeing a good look at the picture I would say it is NOT on nearly far enough. Pull it off again and find out what is wrong.

[aonghus]

It can continue moving in, very slowly of course on the installer tool, I just was not 100% sure, wanted a second experienced opinion

I sprayed silicon on the inside of the hub, and the hub itself around the key, then started to install the damper, an engine builder here in San Diego told me to use motor oil on the hub to lubricate it.

Looks like that is what I'll do, thank you a ton MJM, if you ever need some free webhosting let me know! [img]smile.gif[/img]

[MJM]

No problem! My turn to pay back for all the help I recieve from the great guys on this site! [img]graemlins/beers.gif[/img]