[Winch]

I'm running an oil pump primer on my new 350 before putting intake on to make sure it is oiling properly (per my engine builder). How long should this take? I'm getting oil up to the rockers on the back 4 cylinders but no further up yet. My little drill is burning up and I can't keep it going long enough. I have my son turning the crank over slowly while priming it. Do I need a bigger drill?

[mls48341]

i like to use an air drill for the reason you stated.my 454 took about 15 minutes of
steady priming to get good steady oil flow
at all pushrod tips.i would go until this is the case.

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'86 Firebird,ladder bar
suspension,9 inch ford w/4.56,10 point,440 bbc,
400 manual valve/brake.

'86 3/4 ton 4 wd 454/400 turbo

[JohnZ]

Are you using just a shaft, or a proper primer with the sliding collar at the top that fits in the distributor hole? Without the collar to seal off the lifter oil galleries, it won't build pressure - the lifter gallery oil flow will just run back down into the pan.

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JohnZ
CRG
'69 Z28 Fathom Green

[BillK]

Winch,
I am not going to downplay the importance of pre-oiling, but I think that most people go way overboard. If you run the pump for about a minute, and have oil pressure showing on the gauge...in may opinion any longer is a waste of time. If all the components were properly lubricated with assembly lube when the motor was put together, they will be fine for the ten seconds or so it will take oil to get through the entire motor when you start it.
Hope this helps,

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Bill Koustenis
Owner
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md
1971 Chevelle "Heavy Chevy" original owner
1973 Z-28 ..one family car...Brother bought it new in 73

[Winch]

I'm using a primer I picked up at Autozone. I don't have the intake on yet but I did notice it works better when I made a cardboard gasket to put under the collar and hold the collar down tight. It just dawned on me... How does that collar go? It's flat on one side and has a raised portion on the other side. Is that raised portion supposed to fit into the hole?
I'm only doing this because my engine builder says he does it to make sure the lifters and everything are going to pass oil.
I don't have an air drill. Maybe I ought to get one. Or forget about it like was also suggested?

[This message has been edited by Winch (edited 05-13-2002).]

[JohnZ]

The small diameter part of the collar goes in the hole to seal off the lifter galleries, and the larger diameter flat part sits on top of the distributor mounting surface on the manifold. I just spin it with a 3/8" electric drill until I see oil coming out of the top of the pushrods (only takes 10-15 seconds), then button it up.

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JohnZ
CRG
'69 Z28 Fathom Green

[davidpozzi]

Don't worry about it. You've allready done more than GM does on thousands of engines, and they run OK.
I allways pre-lube by spinning for a minute. I use a half inch drill on it to prevent overloading my 3/8 drill. It WILL cook a 3/8" drill if you run too long.
David

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Check my web page for First Gen Camaro suspension info:
David's Motorsports page
First Gen Suspension Page
67 RS 327 original owner. 69 Camaro Vintage Racer, 65 Lola T-70 Chev SB Can-Am Vintage Racer

[1cool68]

I agree with David. The main reason you prime anyways, is to get oil around all your bearings. If your getting oil to some of your rockers, you've already saturated your bearings with oil. After firing the engine up though, I would double check all the rockers just to make sure they are all getting oil.