[speedball1969]

I have seen a brownish paint that people paint in the engine lifter valley. I know (or believe) that this is to help oil flow back down, but what type of paint is this. Would POR-15 work in its place?? Is it really worth it, or is it one of those things which wouldnt hurt but since the engine is out anyway, go ahead with it?

[BPOS]

My opinion is this: The chances of some of that paint coming loose and plugging your oil pump screen or filter or finding its way into a bearing would outweigh any advantages of improved oil return to the sump, especially on a street engine. I wouldn't do it.

[speedball1969]

MY THOUGHT EXACTLY!!! I have always wondered what if that happened, but I have seen many engines with this done. I didn't know if this was well practiced. Thanks!

[chicane67]

The paint your are refering to is normally a Rust-o-leum product. I forgot which one exactly, but as per BPOS' recommendation, it isnt important. I too agree with BPOS about not painting the lifter valley for the same reasons.

I myself, although labor intensive, have used de-burring tools along with grinding stones and sanding wheels to open up the oil return holes and smooth/polish the lifter valley. This works the best, but takes a fair amount of time. If you have the time, this is what I would recommend. I had started doing this on my race engines in the late 80's, early 90's, and it is now pretty much industry standard practice for block preparation (external block, lifter valley, main webs, cam bore...etc).

The biggest plus to all of this is that you will pretty much eliminate excess casting flash from the return holes.

[grumpyvette]

I paint the inside surfaces of my blocks with
http://www.glyptal.com/1209_black_enamel.htm
to lock in place any micro dust left after the last total cleaning before assembly, to speed the oil flow back to the oil pan and help prevent corrosion
BTW I bought 16 rubber corks to push into the lifter bores to prevent paint entering the lifter bores durring the painting, I placed 16 mini-screw eyes in the corks and strung them on a bead chain to keep from loseing them while in storage or in use!

http://www.camtattoo.com/camshop/hom...ing_Tubes.html





Ive used BOTH RUSTOLEUM (BRITE YELLOW) and Glyptal but lately just several coats of BRITE YELLOW RUSTOLEUM ON OVER THE glyptal EPOXY BASE COAT,COVERED BYE BRITE YELLOW RUSTOLEUM APPLIED ON THE TOTALLY CLEANED AND DEGREASED AND DRIED BLOCK, (BTW A TOTAL DEGREASE OF THE BLOCK WITH ACETONE,and LINT FREE CLOTH, AND A heat gun or hair drier to totally dry the block just before cleaning helps the paint get a firm grip on the block surface) and dont forget you should remember the option to J&B EPOXY a MAGNET in the lifter gallery BEFORE painting the surfaces if you want to permenantly afix it on the block. (which do a great job at picking up micro metalic dust)
http://www.wondermagnet.com/dev/magnet1.html


I buy and use the 1 quart size cans of brite yellow paint at the local hardware store keep in mind that YOU MUST ALLOW THE PAINT TO TOTALLY DRY BEFORE ASSEMBLING THE ENGINE, AND THAT NORMALLY TAKES A FULL DAY IN THE HOT FLA HEAT (85 degrees (F)is a fairly average temp here
#7747 Sunburst Yellow
http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp...ct_id=18&SBL=1
I use brite yellow on both the interior and exterior of the engine blocks I build because it makes finding oil leaks very easy once the engines in use in the corvettes where space is cramped and finding small leaks can sometimes be a problemActually the idea is to grind away all casting flash (the rough sandy looking surface) from the inside of the block, and then wash thoroughly, dry thoroughly, then apply the paint. This takes a long time and must be done carefully which is why most engine builders don't do it, but engine builders on racing teams do it.

It's not only to assist in oil drainback but also keeps the oil from clinging to the block and coking. In racing engines the benefits are slight but apparently noteworthy, check out any GTP type race car engine and you'll see this done as standard block prep.

[stingr69]

"Glyptal" is available from Eastwood I think. It was originaly used for electric motor armature windings but is also commonly used on the inside of engines for this purpose.

-Mark.

[chicane67]

The only draw back to paint is that it retains heat. In most cases, you would want to oil to cling so that it may absorb and transfer heat if you are not using an oil cooler or the engine itself is somewhat mild in performance. Race cars use either synthetics or crude, and change engine oil at regular intervals enough not to worry about coking and other oil related deposite/residue issues and can not skimp on cooling as much as possible.

In a-lot of my newer performance efforts, I have been playing around with color and some various 'coatings' on different parts. The 'all black' engine has the top position so far when it deals with temperature reduction and the ones for the intake, have a heat dissapator on the exterior and an insulator on the interrior to thwart off induction temperatures......the same is used on the valve covers. The reduction in various temperatures was more than once anticipated....

If I had to, I would use an epoxy based paint as Grumpy has pointed out due to its self etching characteristics. But I think cleanlyness is the KEY when you really get down to it. Acetone or MEK with a lint free cloth would definately do the trick as Grumpy said, and using a heat gun to get all of the risidual H20 out of the surface of the casting.

I do however like a lighter color on the engines external surface. At Guldstrand, the Traco engines were painted gray primarily to show leaks, but to also reflect light in the engine bay to help one 'see' in a low light environment.

Great insight Grumpy !! [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]

[SY1]

I agree with Grumpy. I've used Glyptal for over 20 years in dozens of engines and never,ever had it so much as chip in any of them, big block or small block. The key is getting it clean like chicane says. I use MEK, LOTS of MEK, no rags! I just let the MEK run through and with the help of an acid brush work the MEK around and flush it with more MEK. Before I put the Glyptal on I blow it with a bottle of dry Nitrogen.

MEK is extremely flammable. You can watch it evaporate off the floor almost as soon as it hit it. So needless to say use only in a well ventilated area. Also keep it off your skin, it collects in the liver when absorbed through the skin.

Glyptal is available at most good electrical supply houses, like was previously pointed out it was intended for electric motor armatures.