[rickelco]

I have a '68 RS convt. which has a 350 with a TH350. About 3 yrs. ago, it got to where it wouldn't start when you turn the key to start it. Power comes on but when you turn the key on over to start it, nothing. So I ran 2 wires to the starter solenoid with a starter button. Been starting it like that for 3 yrs. now with no problems. But every once in a while when I turn the key over, it will turn over and start with the key! No pattern to it, just whenever it feels like it. I have replaced the ignition switch twice with no difference. Anyone ever had this problem before or heard of it? Thanks in advance.

Richard

[CarlC]

You may want to run a new wire from the firewall plug to the soleniod. Over time the section of wire running down the side of the block can go bad. The cleanest way to do this is to remove the engine harness from the car, unwrap the wiring, and clip the offending wire about 6" from the end of the firewall plug. Sodier and shrink wrap a new wire in place and re-wrap the harness. The easiest way I've found to wrap harnesses is to lightly grap the firewall plug in a vice and attach a bungie cord to the longest wire. This way the harness is under tension and can be easily wrapped.

[RickD]

If your harness is original, you may want to consider replacing it. I just did the front light harness on my 69 which also includes the alternator wires,voltage regulator, horn relay and wires to the connector post on the radiator support. In the process, I discovered many splices, fatigued wire connector ends and one broken wire ( which explains why the charging light didn't work ). The quality suppliers have good product. Mine was made by Factory Fit.

[67FREAK]

i agree with carlc, i had the exact same problem you do, and i did the exact same thing you did. I eventually spliced a new starter wire from the harness like carlc suggested and bingo, no more problems. although, a new harness would always be the best way to go, but way more costly.

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67 RS
355, SUPER T10 4 SPD
9" FORD

[rickelco]

Thanks for the tip. I will run a new wire today. This has been a thorn in my side for 3 yrs. Hopefully this will fix it once and for all. I hope I don't have to replace the wiring harness. Everything else works fine. I will let yall know if it fixes it or not.

Richard

[warrior]

I have 1967 Camaro and have the exact same problem you described. I replaced the engine harness and that made no differnce. It alway works with the external wires an switch I installed. I am now looking at the horn relay and assoiated wiring. Good Luck

[CA420]

Also try looking at your neutral safety switch. The car won't start if this is hosed. The wires are purple and one wire goes to the solenoid.

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68 RS, Ash Gold,pwr windows,Hounds tooth

[rickelco]

You may have steered me on to something, CA420. There is a purple wire running to the solenoid and when I looked at it, it seems real hard like it may have gotten hot at one time. Didn't have a chance to follow it all the way down last night, but I'm wondering if it has an inline fuse block or something like that in it. Will check it out again tonight where I can get to it with a light. I'll let you know what I find out. Thanks for the tip.

[Wes V]

Now this may be dumb, but is the ignition on the column in a 68? (I own a 64 Chevelle)

If it's on the column, you should know that there is an adjustment that can be made in the attachment point for the switch. Once the nuts are loose, it can be moved up and down (a slight amount) on the column. If this adjustment is off, the linkage that goes from the key to the switch may not move the switch enough.

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Wes. Vann
Technical Reference Section