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Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical.

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  #1  
Old Jan 1st, 02, 06:33 PM
boodlefoof boodlefoof is offline
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John
 
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hey all,

I am planning on moving my battery in my '68 to the trunk using Summit Racing's kit, which includes a box, lots of cable, grommets, hold downs, etc.

I just wanted to know if anyone had any suggestions about doing this modification.

I am considering either drilling a hole in the trunk floor to run the positive wire parallel to the gas line up to the starter... or running the positive wire under the rear seat and carpeting and popping it through the floor from the interior right behind the starter. Any thoughts? Any info is appreciated.

As always, thanks.
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  #2  
Old Jan 2nd, 02, 02:00 AM
Everett#2390's Avatar
Everett#2390 Everett#2390 is offline
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<Jake 68's Rule
 
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I ran the cable in the trough on the pass side right next to the sill molding. This trough goes the full length of the interior. Then drilled a hole on the inclined floorboard and ran cable through it. The hole is close to the kick panel.


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Everett 68/350/PG/11.90/115mph
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  #3  
Old Jan 2nd, 02, 05:19 AM
craggar craggar is offline
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If you plan on running at the track remember that you'll need a switch than can be accessed from the rear of the car to kill the engine.
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Old Jan 2nd, 02, 05:28 AM
boodlefoof boodlefoof is offline
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John
 
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Thanks for the input guys. Any other ideas?

I know about the required switch, but will get to that later down the road. As it is, I probably won't have the car to the track for quite some time. Hopefully sooner than later...

Oh, by the way... I also read in old posts that "MAD enterprises" had lots of how-to information on doing this modification. Does anyone know their web address? I can't find them with a search. Thanks.

[This message has been edited by boodlefoof (edited 01-02-2002).]
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  #5  
Old Jan 2nd, 02, 06:48 AM
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Everett#2390 Everett#2390 is offline
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Unfortunately, cragger, and others, turning off the battery switch will not turn off the engine. Once the alternator is spinning, it supplies power, battery becomes a load.

One would have wire in a relay controlled by the battery, to kill the field voltage or BAT out of the alt to kill the engine.

Try it, you'll see what I mean.

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  #6  
Old Jan 2nd, 02, 08:35 AM
craggar craggar is offline
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I thought I added something else to my post but I guess I didn't,if you put a diode in the wire to the alt the cutoff switch will work without running a wire all the way to the back from the alt.
I don't remember the size of diode but if you go to the 2nd gen board and ask someone there will tell you part# and everything.Ignitionman was the one who told me about it if he still comes around here.
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  #7  
Old Jan 3rd, 02, 02:24 PM
boodlefoof boodlefoof is offline
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John
 
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any other suggestions before I put this thing in on Saturday?
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  #8  
Old Jan 3rd, 02, 02:35 PM
gwarren gwarren is offline
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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by boodlefoof:
any other suggestions before I put this thing in on Saturday?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Hey, I used to live in Centreville. Too bad we never met.

Anyways, I was just curious how much all the stuff for the trunk mount kit weighs? I know that moving the weight of the battery to the trunk is good for weight shift, but if you're adding 30# of cable to run 14' of 00 gauge wire then I'm not sure it's worth the effort and cost.

I'm not saying it's a bad idea...I'm just curious what it all weighs.


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406/M20 11.94@117
http://www.mindspring.com/~gordon.warren/
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  #9  
Old Jan 3rd, 02, 04:57 PM
idoxlr8 idoxlr8 is offline
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Here is Mark Hamilton's web site (MAD Enterprises).
http://www.2xtreme.net/madmark/

You can also read this Thread
http://www.camaros.net/forum/Forum4/HTML/003240.html

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TONY
67 CAMARO R/S CLONE, 355/turbo 350, 200hp NOS,12 bolt,etc...

[This message has been edited by idoxlr8 (edited 01-03-2002).]
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  #10  
Old Jan 4th, 02, 04:56 AM
boodlefoof boodlefoof is offline
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John
 
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Gwarren,
Good question. I just weighed the box with all of the parts in it. This means 20' of positive and 4' of negative cable, which I am sure I won't use all of... plus a bunch of fasteners and stuff...
weight came in at 10 pounds.

idoxlr8,
thanks for the links!

I'll let you all know how the install goes tomorrow.
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  #11  
Old Jan 4th, 02, 01:53 PM
scottcleaver scottcleaver is offline
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the weight over the rear end is ballast. By taking the weight off the front and moving it to the rear it should give you a big swing in weight transfer. I believe that I read somewhere that it's like a 200lb swing, but I don't remember the number exactly.

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  #12  
Old Jan 4th, 02, 04:47 PM
clash69 clash69 is offline
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Bought the same kit from Summit ran the pos cable along the rear sub frame then into the rocker drain hole (with a grommet)inside the rocker out the front of the rocker(drilled a hole and fished pos cable out thru grommet) attached to front sub and ran to my remote soloniod. Mounted box behind pass side wheelhouse, made an exra support plate to mount box to being that I could not attach to anything behind box at qrt panel side.
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  #13  
Old Jan 5th, 02, 06:24 PM
boodlefoof boodlefoof is offline
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John
 
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well, it is done and the hardest part was probably positioning the thing so that it would fit with enough room to allow the trunk to close properly as well as to allow the bolts through the trunk floor to be accessable.

The engine compartment looks very nice with the extra space in there. Much less cluttered. Thanks for all of the help everyone.
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  #14  
Old Jan 8th, 02, 11:22 AM
gwarren gwarren is offline
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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by boodlefoof:
The engine compartment looks very nice with the extra space in there. Much less cluttered. Thanks for all of the help everyone.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Got any pictures to share?

scottcleaver, where are you in Alpharetta? We should meet some time. Are you aware of the GA fbody group? (http://www.gafba.com/)

-gw


------------------
1967 Camaro
406/M20 11.94@117
http://www.mindspring.com/~gordon.warren/
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