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Tech 2001 General Tech questions from 2001
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  #1  
Old Sep 9th, 01, 09:37 AM
RSSS69conv RSSS69conv is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Indy IN. USA
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Looking for feedback on Pertronix , thinking about going with it to get high energy ignition from a stock looking points type distributor.

Thanks

Brian
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  #2  
Old Sep 9th, 01, 10:44 AM
Unreal Unreal is offline
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Gary
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Chattanooga, TN, USA
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do a search, there was a long discussion about this, a couple of months ago. Bottom line was Petronics recommends full 12 volts to the coil. Requires new jumper around resistance wire to the coil.
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  #3  
Old Sep 9th, 01, 12:44 PM
djunod djunod is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2001
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We installed one in our '63 Chevy II. It took five minutes to do. You DO have to re-set your timing after installing one. The car starts right up now after sitting a couple of days. Runs VERY smooth around the neighborhood.

We didn't have a resistor in our coil circuit so I don't know anything about that.

You have to file a notch in your distibutor cap to make room for the extra wire.

There is another one out now, that has a single wire. It's about a $100 more. Haven't used it, so wouldn't know anything else about it...
www.lectriclimited.com/Breakerless_SE.htm




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David
Camaro - '68 327 Coupe, '86 Z-28 IROC 305 TPI
Corvette - '73 Mako Shark II, '79 L-82, '82 Cross-fire, '01 Coupe
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  #4  
Old Sep 9th, 01, 02:19 PM
wlpz28 wlpz28 is offline
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Bill
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Valrico, FL, USA
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Brian,
I have installed the Pertonix in a 67 Chevelle and my 69 Camaro. The units I bought were about 70 bucks. You have to pull the distributer to be sure the up and down movement of the distributer shaft is within the Pertonix specs. Both were a piece of cake, assuming you know how to remove and install a distributer. I did not have to notch the distributer cap as I ran the wires out the bottom of the ditributer housing (same place the negative wire comes out). The Pertonix does require a constant 12 volts, you will have to tap into the fuse panel to get this. Find a 12 volt source that is only on when the iginition is turned on (on when the key is turned on). If you hook it up with the original ballast resitor wire, it may start but will probably run poorly. And do reset the timimg. It made a noticable difference in my Chevelle and Camaro.
Good Luck

------------------
'72Z & '67 Chevelle.com

[This message has been edited by wlpz28 (edited 09-09-2001).]
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Old Sep 9th, 01, 09:08 PM
ibjoe ibjoe is offline
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I did the Pertronix, had to shim the dist (shim kit is available from regular parts supply), ran the wire out where the original came from (added a grommet), used existing wiring (NOT bypassing ballast resistor), switched coils to the Pertronix "Flamethrower", runs GREAT! I gap the plugs at .050" now, replace them at .060".
ibjoe
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  #6  
Old Sep 10th, 01, 04:00 AM
Jeff H Jeff H is offline
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I've had it in 2 of my Camaros and I used the stock wiring without any problems and didn't need to shim the distributor. Car ran nice and smooth with it.

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Jeff H - 93 Indy 500 Pace Car(supercharged) & driven daily, Hugger Orange 69 Z28 with JL8 brakes, cross-ram & GM fiberglass hood, TI setup, heater and radio delete, being restored
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Old Sep 10th, 01, 04:43 AM
Unreal Unreal is offline
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Gary
 
Join Date: May 2001
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I put both wires in a piece of shrink tubing, and ran them out the bottom of the distributor. Then at the coil, the wires split to pos and neg. "Almost" looks stock.
I have not yet replaced the resistance wire to the coil. I've run the engine in the garage, but I've not run it on the street, yet.
One guy suggested, to look stock, get a white with red braid wire, from an appliance parts store, for the lead.
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