[jt's68vert]

I bought a 68 convertible and am resotring it. I believe it to be a L30/M20 as it has multi leaf rear springs, 12 bolt rear end, saginaw 4sp, and 327 emblems. The sellar stated it had a 350 in it but once home found the block to be a 283. Is it worth looking for the original 327 or just replace with another 350. Thanks

[KevinW]

JT, you should put in what you find and what your wallet can afford. The 327 might be a little harder to find than a run of the mill 350. Unless you are looking for 68 specific blocks, then the price is about the same and will be more work to find. It will take the same amount of money to refresh either. The engine will never be original, so build an engine that meets your needs and budget. Of course the 350 or larger small blocks will have more torque than the 327, but the 327 revs quicker.

Luck, Kevin

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69' SS-350 Convert, M20, 3.55 posi. Totally Disassembled & in boxes (I'm working on it!)
69'(Hugger Orange -originally, Burgundy now) Z-21 Convert 327/PG, 3.55 posi too! Driver

[bonecrusher67conv]

I've placed ads on this board before looking for the proper date code 350 for a RS SS w/smog car and have never got a response.

*** Want ad removed!! *** post wanted ads at www.camaros.net/ads/wanted please.

The only reason I would consider looking for an original block is that I've got the original Muncie M20 to go with the car. Also, I'm not even considering working on this car for another two years, so I will keep doing random searches. In the meantime, if I come across a built 383 for a insanely low price, then I will probably jump on it and put it in dry storage.

If you are looking for originality the block casting code won't do squat for you unless you have the stamp on the front passenger side pad with the proper date and M? suffix (67 anyway). For 68 here is CRG link: http://www.camaros.org/diffs68.shtml

Now, if it was a 327/210hp you might have a chance as I see them on eBay every once and a while.
About all you can do is save 68 block casting codes like 3914660 or 3914678 under a FAVORITE SEARCH on eBay and keep searching week after week. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34202&item=18768 41818&rd=1

Build a stout 350 or 383 if it is not going to be a trailer queen. If you want the look of originality, then get some ported camel hump heads that have been punched out to 2.02 and 1.60 valves without accessory holes to go with it.

Now, camel hump heads are much easier to find and even with a very close date code. Of course, if you want to put in the larger 2.02 intake valves, you probably have a 25% chance that an air void or imperfection may be hit when machining for hardened seats and then you have a boat anchor. You may just want to machine them out for bigger valves and skip the hardened valves seats, like I have done for my daily driver. I got a set of 462 camel hump heads. And, had them machined and put in stainless 2.02 valves. So that, when I finally get time I will swap the heads and keep the original small valve heads in my original parts pile.


[This message has been edited by bonecrusher67conv (edited 01-19-2003).]

[This message has been edited by DjD (edited 01-20-2003).]

[paulm]

I have a 67 L30/M20 convertible! Besides you I haven't heard of another L30/M20 convertible(not that I know much though)....Great Find!

If you really want correctly dated parts and are willing to spend the money(about $500 for a block, $500 for heads, $300 for intake, $200 exhaust manifold etc) you can try these guys:

http://www.tracyvette.com

The 7028213 or 7028203 carbs aren't that difficult to find. An 1111298 distributor might take a while, but I'm sure that you could locate one via this site or Ebay. Then you would have to find an alternator(I don't remember the number) and a water pump(again, I don't remember the number) and you would be pretty much there!

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<A HREF="http://www.stratagaz.com/69LM1/1969LM1Convertible.htm" TARGET=_blank>My 69 LM1 Convertible
</A>

[bonecrusher67conv]

My RS conv is an L30/M20 with options, and they do seem a tad rarer than a SS or RS SS conv. Especially with AC/PW/PB/headrests like mine. I really wanted an RS SS conv when I started looking, but a lot of the RS SS conv have Powerglides and the ones with 4spds didn't seem to have power windows. I don't have the original Saginaw as it had a 72 Saginaw in it when I bought it. I replaced it with a Muncie M20/Hurst shifter and it is so smooth I don't miss the Saginaw at all. I never really tried the Muncie with the Muncie shifter. But the Saginaw with Muncie shifter, paled in comparison after the changeout. I still have the original Muncie shifter, but doubt I'd ever install it. I need to get this sucker painted and back on the road!

[This message has been edited by bonecrusher67conv (edited 01-20-2003).]

[paulm]

Really!!! That's cool!!

Kurt S told me that he estimated that there were probably less than 400 L30/M20 convertibles sold in 67. I suppose most that have L30/M20's probably make them into SS cars or never know what they are and the ones that do survive probably don't have the original drivetrains in them. Nobody looks for L30/M20's like they look for SS cars, so they probably just disappear!

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<A HREF="http://www.stratagaz.com/69LM1/1969LM1Convertible.htm" TARGET=_blank>My 69 LM1 Convertible
</A>

[davidpozzi]

The first Camaro I ever drove was an L30M20 Convertable in red. It must have been one of the first delivered because I drove it before I purchased my 67 coupe in Oct 66.
The Sagainaw trans was pure hell!
I was so happy when I blew reverse out of mine and could replace it with a muncie!
David

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Check my web page for First Gen Camaro suspension info:
David's Motorsports page
First Gen Suspension Page
67 RS 327 original owner. 69 Camaro Vintage Racer, 65 Lola T-70 Chev SB Can-Am Vintage Racer